Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: ridjrunr on December 15, 2019, 09:48:28 PM
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This is one of many projects in line for the winter. Long story short,this is a stock I had Pecatonica duplicate a few yrs ago but have never finished it. It originaly is an Austin and Halleck mtn rifle, (.50)but it developed two cracks,thus the restocking. I had traded into a curly maple blank with a 55# Redwing Hunter recurve bow and that is the blank I sent to them to copy.
When I got it back I was stunned and kind of spooked because I didnt want to screw it up.
Well, I'm finally getting it worked on because I have other projects in various stages and realized its not gonna finish itself. Even from the duplicator it needs quite a bit of final shaping. The forestock is now close and next will be the buttstock and comb areas.
Am doing a crash course (vary carefully)in scraping curly maple, MUCH different than scraping other woods like walnut or beech. [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ]
More to follow
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Trying to get about .030" along the top edge of forestock.
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Lookin' good,... and she's gonna be pretty when you're done. :applaud :bl th up
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I don't know what a Red Wing bow might be worth but that sure looks like a good trade to me. :bl th up
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That is going to be a very nice rifle!
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So you sent Pecatonica the original stock with your new wood, and they reproduced it? I had heard that they would do so. I have been thinking about a new stock for the Hodgepodge rifle after I made a mess of inletting a patch box, but couldn't find another CVA Mountain Rifle stock. This may be the way to go! :toast
~Kees~
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I have bought a few stocks from them and was always rather pleased with what they sent me.
I would sure recommend them.
John
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So you sent Pecatonica the original stock with your new wood, and they reproduced it? I had heard that they would do so. I have been thinking about a new stock for the Hodgepodge rifle after I made a mess of inletting a patch box, but couldn't find another CVA Mountain Rifle stock. This may be the way to go! :toast
~Kees~
Yes, they run a duplicator to do so. They supply precarves for a couple bp
Suppliers if im not mistaken. Good outfit.
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I like it ridjrunr !!! :hairy :toast
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So you sent Pecatonica the original stock with your new wood, and they reproduced it? I had heard that they would do so. I have been thinking about a new stock for the Hodgepodge rifle after I made a mess of inletting a patch box, but couldn't find another CVA Mountain Rifle stock. This may be the way to go! :toast
~Kees~
They have a good website and have great service. I also have a Leman that was recently
Cut by them after sending another blank to them, and a 7/8, .45 cva barrel is going in it.
They are very accommodating as I needed a 7/8 barrel channel which wasnt listed, but he said,” no problem”.
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What's their turn-around time?
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Not sure how much it fluctuates but 1-3 weeks on the two i had done and that was a few yrs apart.
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Still not feeling much like winter but stuff IS getting worked on. I needed to narrow the stock to match the butt plate and very small amout off the top of the comb. And a few other areas needed blending as well. [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ]
Getting close
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7/8", .45 CVA barrel? You didn't get that from Captchee, by chance?
~Kees~
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No, this is all stock parts going in a restock of my Austin and Halleck. The 7/8 barreled project is a diferent one in a Leman profile. But the barrel isn't from Charlie.
Have you contacted Pecotonica about what you mentioned previously?
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A handsome stock - nice work ! ! . :bow :bow :applaud
I had the .50cal A&H Mountain Rifle rocklock, and while it was pretty & accurate, it also had instantaneous ignition - almost as fast as a metallic cartridge rifle (amazing).
.
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Thanks Petaw, its going pretty good so far with a few surprises along the way. I did run a cross a flintlock for this but after thinking it over, im going to keep it a capper. Thats the wayI bought it and I got my first bp deer with this rifle as a capper.
:toast
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Have you contacted Pecotonica about what you mentioned previously?
No, not yet. Too many bills to get out of the way first. Once we are a little less tight I'll call them. In the meantime, the existing stock works well enough despite my attempts to screw it up! :Doh!
~Kees~
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I like it! Is the tg a modified cva or ? And was there ever a cva patchbox? It looks like a 1803 HF pb. :hairy
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Thank you for the kind words!
Trigger guard was a Leman I got from Track: https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/946/2/TG-LEMAN-1-I
The rifle had no patchbox. I got a patch box blank from Ted Cash and cut it to shape: http://www.tdcmfgstore.com/agora.cgi?cart_id=37013656.1085379&p_id=PB-BPB&xm=on&ppinc=search2
I wanted it to resemble the 1803, but didn't want to pay the price which Track asks for theirs. :laffing So it doesn't flare out wider like the 1803. And I used the over-center spring closure, rather than have a button on top of the stock to push. It isn't all that strong of a closure, but I haven't lost anything out of it yet so I guess it works well enough.
~Kees~
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Heres a little update, still testing vinegroon stains. Am liking what I see and hope to finish next weekend. [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ]
This stain is on a test pc, am now testing inside barrel channel. :pray:
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I like it! :hairy
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Looks great!
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I like it! :hairy
:hairy :hairy me too.
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Thanks fellas, wiskering is going good and I ordered some sealer from Log Cabin shop [ Invalid Attachment ]
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Finally, ... started with applications of the wood sealer. Scraped,sanded,stained and burnished with burlap. [ Invalid Attachment ] [ Invalid Attachment ] Stain being homemade vinegroon.
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Wow Dan, that color and figure is exploding out of that wood. Looking great. :bl th up
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Very nice!!! :hairy
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That's the reason they call it the ART of gunsmithing!
Absolutely Gorgeous .
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Thanks guys,
Wow Dan, that color and figure is exploding out of that wood. Looking great. :bl th up
Hank, this stain is homemade vinegroon. It mimics aqua fortis, instead of nitric acid disolveing iron, its vinegar dissolving rusted iron/steel. Then tested for strenth,time and number of applications. I read about it over on alr forum. Pretty neat stuff, aguy that goes by LongJohn has the most knowlegde about it but a search for vinegroon brings up all discussions about it. You can get alot of different shades of browns,reds and goldish tones just by how you manipulate your mix. I think I'll be doing a Leman after I finish this rifle and that one I want to go golden/tan for a finish color.
What do you like to use for a final finish?
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I've mostly been using an alcohol stain (LMF) and tung oil (semi gloss).
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unless an "oil" contains resins, it'll never cure ... not ever. the worst of the lot, at least for me, has been tung oil. the raw stuff stays gummy forever. the ones that have resins added, such as the min-wax tung oil flavor, will still take days or maybe weeks to fully gas off, lots depends on the ambient air temp and humidity. LMF's permalyn is pure synthetic and cures overnight, or lots sooner. tru-oil is an oil base with resins and light wipes cure overnight for the most part, and has more of an amber translucence that i prefer. min-wax fast drying wipe on polyu cures overnight, good stuff, and is quite clear when cured.
all this means is that there are finishes that never cure or cure very slow, and finishes that cure faster, and some are not so durable and some are more durable. choose wisely, but for the most part it'll be a gamble of sorts. this is why i've settled on tru-oil for a fast curing durable finish. no, it's not "period/era correct", but it's close enuf and will cure, unlike raw linseed or tung oils that never cure.
as to staining the wood, i used LMF for many years and only recently switched to kibler's aqua-fortis because it's easy, fast, controllable, and is quite "period/era correct" :)
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I've got three coats of sealer on so need to decide on a finish. I understand about oils not drying, but at the same time,plenty of people use it successfully. The range of product is like patch lube😂. I was at home depot ready tung oil cans, Formbys Tung Oil Finish doesnt have any tung oil in it ::) but it dries and its called tung oil. Watco is a blend (24 hr cure) I think but they also have a couple diferent versions on the website. Rockler looks like they they have pure tung oil so one would have to add a dryer.
Im about ready to buy some shellac flakes and mix that up, that would be period correct and tough,but thats spendy.
Hank, what kind of tung have you used? Any input appreciated.
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Well, it looks like I stand corrected. I've been using Formbys semi gloss for years. I never realized it didn't have tung oil in it. I never cared for polys. They look plastic. I've always mixed the Formbys with a little thinner for the first coat and just keep slopping it on until the wood won't absorb any more. Then wipe it off with a rag and get in all the crevices with a dry paint brush so there won't be a lot of build up and let it dry. The rest of the coats are applied by dipping my finger tip in the oil and rubbing it in vigorously. It takes a while but it gives the wood a nice warm and soft look. I like the look. Hope all that rambling makes sense.
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Hope all that rambling makes sense.
Ramble on Hank! :laffing :luff: :lol sign
~Kees~
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Hank, There many, many products that are probably going to give excellent results. I just read its one of two things, pure tung oil or tung oil finish. Basically tung oil finish, whatever the brand, is a combination of ingredients while pure is pure but really doesnt “dry”.
I’ve got three coats and im sayin its covered completely.
While its hardening, Im just reading trying to decided what to put on for a final and if I should take 0000 to it before I put on a final.