Post by: Minnesota Mike on July 21, 2008, 05:39:25 PM
r/
MM
Post by: Riley/MN on July 21, 2008, 06:00:57 PM
Post by: BEAVERMAN on July 21, 2008, 06:47:39 PM
Post by: FG1 on July 21, 2008, 09:54:48 PM
Post by: R.M. on July 22, 2008, 11:54:34 AM
I admire your work, Keep'm coming.
Post by: Uncle Russ on July 22, 2008, 12:03:36 PM
Quote from: "R.M."
Boy, you make it look so simple. It sure does make a good looking gun look even better.
I admire your work, Keep'm coming.
Same what R.M. seez....you do make it look easy!
Thanks for sharing your insight, not only on inlay, but on a lot of your work!
Respectfully, Uncle Russ...
Post by: Flint62Smoothie on July 22, 2008, 01:18:25 PM
Quote from: "Wyosmith"
That's why I joined the TMA. More men and woman making guns in the old way is the only thing that's going to keep the sport alive and healthy. If we don't share out knowledge, it dies and leave only the in-lines and the plastic stocked guns for our kids.
Amen brother
! Well said ... and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Post by: Riley/MN on July 22, 2008, 01:25:32 PM
Quote from: "Flint62Smoothie"
... and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Ditto what Dale sed!!
Post by: BEAVERMAN on July 22, 2008, 01:44:53 PM
Post by: Gambia on July 22, 2008, 05:36:44 PM
Silver wire should be no more than 1/16 deep any broader and it will buckle when you tap it in.When you have got your wire tapped into the cut smear wood clue over the design and when dry file it flat to the surface and finish off as a ordinary stock finish.This is the method I have used for the last 40 years it is a slow process but the finish job looks good.
Feltwad
------------------------
A Flint Lock will not secure a chicken house door
Post by: Captchee on July 22, 2008, 06:29:36 PM
i cut them about 3 inches long. i then sharpen the ends .
for the concave chisels i bend them around a socket .
this will allow you to bend different sized radiuses . I also do not cut stops in the tools .
What I do is lay the wire along the edge and with a black marker color along the upper edge . This gives me a reference line for depth .
I also do not glue the wire into the wood . When you file the teeth in to the silver or brass , yes you can do the same thing with brass and copper , even gold . it will hold just fine unless you snag it when you are filing. that’s why you go lightly . remeber your not removing wood here like you do with an inlay , your just displacing it or opening it up so as to accept the wire . when you wet it , it swells back closed , clamping down on the wire
When you put the finish on the stock , the oil will lock it into place even more thus holding it just fine .
I would also add that one should take care when working along with the grain . Dead ending with the grain will produce a small whisker crack . This doesn’t show with a dark stock . But if your doing a blonde , you will see it .
Also as to layout . This is ALLWAYS very important with carvings, engravings and such . But with engraving and wire inlay it is doubly so . Once you start your cut , its there . You will not be able to sand it out . Simply put , you have what you have . So take your time , draw out the layout . And then let it set , step back and consider it for a while before you actually start the wire
Post by: Mule Brain on July 27, 2008, 11:59:48 PM
I kinda had an idea of how it was done, but wasn't exactly sure. I know now thanks to you folks.
Post by: Minnesota Mike on July 28, 2008, 03:07:59 PM
Any suggestions or advice about the types of designs?
r/
MM
Post by: Minnesota Mike on July 29, 2008, 10:47:09 AM
Quote from: "Wyosmith"
Well, yes, but I'd first have to know the rifle. What era and what school of building do you want to make?
Sort of have to give you two answers . . .in first case, I'm just looking for general info to edumicate myself. Have seen a lot of different styles and curious as to why which had what.
Second case - have two weapons I might decorate. The first is a new flintlock trade gun (Jack Garner kit my Dad and I finished) that I got to have for shooting shot at range clay bird shoots, give me flinter for any flint-only shoots, and trade gun goes with 1832 persona. The other is old, old CVA Frontier that I got back in college as a kit (from Track of the Wolf when they were still a single room small store in Osseo, MN) for deer hunting. She still works and I still use her for Bambi.
r/
MM
Post by: Captchee on July 29, 2008, 04:09:13 PM
with CVA it depend on time frame . early on some of their stocks were walnut . but that didnt last long and the switched to Beech and birch to do wire on these you will need to glue it in to get it to stay . i have also seen CVA kantucks that were full 1 peice stocks but these are few and far between
there 2 piece stock design is also late percussion era so the wire work would be much like the engraving of that period . lots of overlapping scroll work and finals .
myself if i was going to do wire on a CVA ,, i would restock it in hard maple or walnut before i made the attempt .
carving also doesn’t turn out to well on birch or beech unless its of higher grade and hard . i have heard of folks using wood hardener on soft birch and beech so as to do clean carving and wire work . But i myself have never used it for anything but artificially doing tiger striping
Post by: Captchee on July 29, 2008, 09:09:03 PM
Post by: Minnesota Mike on July 30, 2008, 11:25:11 AM
Maybe I should just get some type of decal transfers and out on rather than try to match any of that artistry. Wow.
Think I need to spend a few moments to take some photos and post so you guys can see the weapons I've been blathering about. Might help for future reference (and jokes).
r/
MM
Post by: SquirrelHeart on July 30, 2008, 01:45:29 PM
Here are a couple of links to David Price's web site for those who are interested in an even more detailed tutorial. There is are more tutorials on the site about carving and tool sharpening that could be handy for folks.
http://www.davidpriceflintlocks.com/id29.html
http://www.davidpriceflintlocks.com/id30.html
Post by: Captchee on July 30, 2008, 02:57:31 PM
Post by: SquirrelHeart on July 31, 2008, 08:31:29 AM
Just wanted to mention that you do VERY WELL with your tutorials, and that both the tutorials and your other postings are invaluable resources of information for me and the other folks here at TMA. Keep it coming!
Post by: melsdad on July 31, 2008, 12:19:21 PM
Wyosmith I enjoy your tutorials just as well, and I thank you for taking the time to post them with your limited equiptment.