Post by: Hawken on December 09, 2016, 07:07:46 PM
Post by: Ohio Joe on December 09, 2016, 09:04:53 PM
Post by: RonC on December 09, 2016, 10:46:51 PM
I have seen that information in pieces here and there, but it is very helpful to have it all in one document.
Ron
Post by: Roaddog on December 10, 2016, 09:35:57 AM
Post by: Uncle Russ on December 13, 2016, 02:23:35 PM
Uncle Russ...
Post by: ridjrunr on December 14, 2016, 03:33:03 AM
Quote from: "RussB"
Hows'about we make this post / link a "stickie"?
Uncle Russ...
Perfect Uncle Russ,great idea
Post by: Hanshi on February 14, 2017, 02:50:28 PM
Excellent idea!
Post by: Sir Michael on March 07, 2017, 05:50:06 PM
Post by: Winter Hawk on March 07, 2017, 07:40:46 PM
Quote from: "Sir Michael"
A "sticky" to Larry Pletcher's analysis on touch hole location and priming powder positioning should be attached with it.Here is his site:
BlackPowderMag.com | Flintlock Rifles and Black Powder Guns (http://www.blackpowdermag.com/)
And further into it, here are his articles (not necessarily the ones from Muzzle Blasts) on vent liners:
Vent Liners | BlackPowderMag.com (http://www.blackpowdermag.com/category/articles/vent-liners/)
~WH~
Post by: Uncle Russ on March 07, 2017, 08:58:54 PM
Thank you!
Uncle Russ...
Post by: Ohio Joe on March 08, 2017, 02:02:06 PM
Post by: lefty41 on March 13, 2017, 06:49:01 PM
Post by: blackpowderbill on November 24, 2018, 10:39:38 AM
Post by: RobD on October 19, 2019, 07:49:54 PM
for the most part, the defacto touch hole diameter is .062" (1/16"). most offshore guns have slotted removable touch hole liners that are well under that diameter and it's more than worthwhile to get you a 1/16" drill bit and SLOWLY drill out the touch hole while it's still screwed in. you can drill it out fast if you slide down an appropriate size wood dowel, so you don't inadvertently punch through with too much force and drill the barrel innards. or just remove the liner and drill it. it will pay to use anti-seize lube (permatex, at all auto stores) on liner threads. in fact, use anti-seize grease on anything that screws into the barrel - this will pay big dividends years later.
keep the chamber CLEAN and DRY. the slightest bit of moisture will yield a pan flash or fizzled ignition. if you use a wet patch for fouling control you must follow with a dry patch or all bets are off.
compact your powder charge. this is particularly important as the chamber area gets built up with caked BP residue. what does "compact" mean? it means bouncing the ramrod to send a patched ball down the tube and properly seat it onto the chamber powder. this will insure that there is no air space 'tween the patched ball and the chamber powder. pounding on the ramrod may NOT insure there is no air space! the Best method is "bouncing the rod". flick the ramrod down on the patched ball - when the rod trampolines upwards, that is the indication that the patched ball is seated and the chamber powder has been properly compacted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5w4cQDS58PY
you MUST pick the touch hole after the barrel has been charged and before the pan is filled! pick DEEP into the touch hole. this does two really good things - (1) it increases the area (amount) of chamber powder that the ignited pan will heat up for ignition explosion, and (2) it insures that any touch hole crud gets pushed out of the way. a Great touch hole pick is a piece of ACOUSTIC guitar string, perhaps .040 to .056 gauge. acoustic strings have a steel core that is wrapped with phosphor bronze wire (non sparking) and that saw-like wrapping digs in well to the compacted chamber powder.
special attention MUST be given to guns with "patent breeches" - this means literally all offshore built guns. patent breeches mean that there's an ante-chamber behind the real chamber, and its narrow flue will not allow a bore sized cleaning rod to get in there and scrub out the BP residue. swap out the rod's jag for a small .22 to .38 brush draped with a cleaning patch to get into that ante-chamber, and don't forget a drying patch afterwards!
as to the flint itself, thin "fine" flints (with a single beveled cutting edge) are usually better than fat "common" flints (dual edged). TOTW will send fine flints if specified in yer order.
flintlock geometry is important for both consistent ignition and the life of the flint itself. finding the sweet spot for where the flint hits the hammer steel (frizzen) is important and may mean the flint will need to be in the cock jaws bevel down instead of up. at half cock the flint's edge should be very close to the hammer steel and aimed at least 2/3rds to 3/4ths up.
the difference between using null-B and 3f for pan charging ain't worth a hoot to be concerned about. finer powder WILL be more susceptible to air moisture than coarser powder, and that could mean no pan flash. back in the day, most powder was about 1f granulation, and today most folks are scrambling to pan charge with 4f - not needed and maybe should NOT be used! i use one powder for both tube and pan - 3f - don't matter what bore size, either. food for thought? ;)
r.
:*:
PS - it helps to keep the pan, flint, and hammer steel clean 'tween loads, too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AYDRUm_i8E
Post by: Flinchlock on November 17, 2019, 01:13:00 PM
Post by: Ohio Joe on November 17, 2019, 06:47:54 PM
Quote from: Sir MichaelA "sticky" to Larry Pletcher's analysis on touch hole location and priming powder positioning should be attached with it.Here is his site:
BlackPowderMag.com | Flintlock Rifles and Black Powder Guns (http://www.blackpowdermag.com/)
And further into it, here are his articles (not necessarily the ones from Muzzle Blasts) on vent liners:
Vent Liners | BlackPowderMag.com (http://www.blackpowdermag.com/category/articles/vent-liners/)
~WH~
I'd take a look at these links Winter Hawk posted, and be sure to checkout the "Flintlock Videos" that Larry shows igniting powder.
Have no idea where Hawken's link led to? Perhaps he'll stop by and recall for us what it was.
Post by: PeashooterJoe on November 17, 2019, 10:18:41 PM
Flast flintlocks by Fred Stutzenberger PDF File, in Dec @013 Muzzleblasts. Very informative on Flintlock locks, touch holes etc., I have it if anyone needs it.Peashooterjoe
Post by: Flinchlock on November 17, 2019, 11:49:20 PM
http://nmlra.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/MuzzleBlasts-DEC-2013-STUTZENBERGER.pdfWhen I click that link, it goes to a 404 or whatever. If you have the pdf, can you email or pm it to me?
Flast flintlocks by Fred Stutzenberger PDF File, in Dec @013 Muzzleblasts. Very informative on Flintlock locks, touch holes etc., I have it if anyone needs it.Peashooterjoe
Post by: Flinchlock on November 17, 2019, 11:50:18 PM
http://nmlra.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/MuzzleBlasts-DEC-2013-STUTZENBERGER.pdfWhen I click that link, it goes to a 404 or whatever. If you have the pdf, can you email or pm it to me?
Flast flintlocks by Fred Stutzenberger PDF File, in Dec @013 Muzzleblasts. Very informative on Flintlock locks, touch holes etc., I have it if anyone needs it.Peashooterjoe
Post by: Fyrstyk on November 18, 2019, 08:41:51 AM
Post by: Flinchlock on November 18, 2019, 09:31:37 AM
Like wise. I am having the same problem. When I click on the link I get a code 404, and the page is not available??My guess is that they changed their website and didn't tell anyone.
Post by: Flinchlock on November 18, 2019, 10:26:37 AM