Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Traditional Firearms => Caplock Long Guns => Topic started by: buflerhide on October 19, 2021, 12:33:09 PM
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I need a brass range rod. McMaster-Carr has several types of brass rod. 353, 360,385 464 and 485. Would anyone know which rod would be best for a .36 cal rifle?
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Of the choices you showed in your post I would have to say the smallest diameter one, as a .36 caliber rifle has a bore of .350. The .353 will likely fit, but I would try to find something with a smaller diameter like .30. Look for a rod that is used for modern 30 caliber firearms although sometimes it is hard to find a rod long enough. Why not buy a brass rod and have someone drill and tap the end for you accessories and make your own handle?
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I am sorry that I wasn't clearer on the numbers.. These are alloy numbers, not diameters. Some have higher lead, copper or zinc percentages..
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Sounds to me like someone is overthinking things.
When I used to make ramrods, and I have literally made hundreds of them, I called up the metal supply store and ordered a hundred feet of 3/8 and 50 feet of 5/16, etc. I was very happy with whatever alloy I got, and I never had a single complaint about what damn alloy I used. I don't think I ever had anyone ask about it. I know I sure didn't, and never thought to have asked.
If you go with the thought of obtaining a piece of brass rod, remember two things. 1) Allow for an extra 3 or 4 inches in the length for a handle. 2) Be sure to pin the rod into the handle. IIRC, I used 3/32 rod I got from the hardware store. Don't know what alloy that was, either.
For your .36 cal. rifle, I think a 5/16" diameter rod would be just fine. 5/16" = .3125" I like to use a rod thimble on my ramrods so if you use a jag with a 3/8" base, the rod thimble will not want to slide off the ramrod. You might have to trim a little off the base to fit the bore.
John (Bigsmoke)
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Thanx for the info Bigsmoke. I was looking at brass rods and had no idea how many different alloys are available. What info I have found is most brass range rods are made from 360 alloy. Several places have 5/16"/8mm available from about $28-$35. I am going to drill and tap both ends, 8x32 and 10x32 thread. Will drill a hole across diameter on each end to slip a nail into to hook a wire or line to to pull the real tight screwups. I did this on the rod for my .45 and .54 and it has saved me a couple of trips from the range
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Not for nuthin but you could avoid all the trouble of making a rod and get one with a handle from October country for around 40$.
I have one and use it . the T handle is a must if you dry ball.
Kevin
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A "T" handle is pretty much a must on a rod if you don't want trouble trying to extract a dryball. My most used range rods are ss and I have no brass rods. Really contemplating making a brass rod with a T handle from scratch, myself.
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Not for nuthin but you could avoid all the trouble of making a rod and get one with a handle from October country for around 40$.
I have one and use it . the T handle is a must if you dry ball.
Kevin
Dry ball???????????!!!!!!! what is this dry ball thing that you speak of?
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the T handle is a must if you dry ball.
Kevin
Dry ball???????????!!!!!!! what is this dry ball thing that you speak of?
Oh - HORROR'S ! ! ! :bigsmile:
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Dry ball???????????!!!!!!! what is this dry ball thing that you speak of?
It must be the opposite of a "wet ball" which I had when I didn't get all the oil out of the rifle's powder chamber before loading last week.... :Doh!
~Kees~
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Dry ball???????????!!!!!!! what is this dry ball thing that you speak of?
It must be the opposite of a "wet ball" which I had when I didn't get all the oil out of the rifle's powder chamber before loading last week.... :Doh!
~Kees~
"Wet balls" are NOT fun and too easy to create, I kid you not. This is what I *hate* about those damn patent breech plugs. It takes at least two, but probably three pokes down the tube to care for fouling control.
First up is the bore with a damp or wet patched jag to clear out the heavy fouling. This does a wonderful job of pushing some of that crud into the ante-chamber flue. If ya stop now, you've got a contaminated ignition chamber. Even if you do another bore wipe with a dry patch. Second is a patch draped over a .30 (or similar size) brush to get into the chamber and mop it out reasonably dry. This is the least I'd do with patent plugs. Sometimes that ain't good enuf and the ignition of my flinter fizzles, with more wipes of both tube and chamber required. I wish these offshore guns would not use patent plugs. Dang.