Traditional Muzzleloading Association
Craftsmanship => Gun Building and Repair => Topic started by: cwgrizz on August 18, 2022, 11:55:51 PM
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I have two GP rifles. One is an older percussion and the other is a newer (10 years old never shot). The perc rifle has been doing pretty good for years, but it has developed a no cock condition if the set trigger is not set. I had this problem years ago, but honestly, I don't remember what I did to correct it. This time I tried shimming the trigger assy with card stock and it worked for about 40 shots. I really don't think shimming was the answer. I think that there is an adjustment (not the screw between the triggers for reducing set trigger let off). At one time I had a picture of the assy and what each part did and what I adjusted. Needless to say, I can't find it.
The flinter has a lot of creep in the trigger with or without the set. I haven't tried a longer set adjusting screw yet and really haven't played with it at all to see what can be done.
Two questions:
1. Has anyone used the R.E. Davis "Deer slayer" replacement trigger assy and if so, do you like it?
2. For the flinter, would it be worth the money for an R.E. Davis "Deer Slayer" trigger assy ($75) and an L&R lock ($220) to upgrade the GP Rifle Flintlock?
Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated and a picture with the part names for the trigger assy.
TIA
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Haven't changed out the lock on a GPR, but I did on a T-C. I'm not sure if it was worth it; the L&R hit the frizzen much more forcefully than the original and my flints didn't last nearly as long. I don't have any experience with the Davis triggers.
That said, here is a link to photos of the L&R lock with the parts named:
https://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89:parts-diagram&catid=41:information&Itemid=68
And their trigger assembly:
https://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=90:trigger-parts-diagram&catid=41:information&Itemid=68
Hope this helps!
~Kees~
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Thanks Kees,
From what I have read on other forums, the RE Davis trigger assy is a very good upgrade. It should be as it has increased in price by 30% in two years (New Price $75).
I think I saw on this forum that @RobD built a rifle or two and replaced the lock with an L&R because he much preferred them over the original. I will wait a day or two for more comments, but I am leaning toward purchasing the RE Davis trigger assy for the perc rifle and seeing how I like it. Then I may get a second one for the flinter at a later date.
I am still playing with adjustments on the stock trigger on the perc to see if I can make it better, but if not the RE Davis will be ordered and installed.
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cwgrizz,
For a lot less money, you can achieve some pretty good results by honing the tumbler and the sear with a fine stone. Be careful to keep the angles the same and don't go overboard. I took my JP Henry down to an estimated 3 +/- pound trigger pull and it was a delight to shoot. And no silly set triggers to mess with. I don't really like them and you don't need them.
And of course, the big difference between the Lyman and the L & R locks are the difference between a coil mainspring and a leaf spring. Which one is better? Heck, they both work. I think the problem with the lock you put on the T/C PA Hunter, Kees, is the flint more batters the frizzen than scrapes it.
John (Bigsmoke)
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I have used davis triggers for a couple of builds and they perform well, as far as changing the lock, as Smoke says some basic polishing and tuning and stock locks can be made to sing opera!
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I have used davis triggers for a couple of builds and they perform well, as far as changing the lock, as Smoke says some basic polishing and tuning and stock locks can be made to sing opera!
Figero, figero, fig-eeeeeeeeeee-rah- ooooooooooooooooooooooooooo.
Ah, figure it out yourself. :luff: :luff:
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For all flint locks they get stripped down completely, the lock plate is leveled with either a file and/or abrasive paper, the sear is honed with MicroMesh, the lock is reassembled and I use TSI-321 to lube all moving parts. I usually replace the stock coil spring locks with an L&R RPL-05 leaf spring lock - faster, better built, more reliable, more durable.
As to the DST trigger assembly, I've only used the DST sets from L&R, usually a T5, don't know anything about the Davis triggers but I'll bet they're good ones.
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The perc rifle has been doing pretty good for years, but it has developed a no cock condition if the set trigger is not set. I had this problem years ago, but honestly, I don't remember what I did to correct it. I think that there is an adjustment (not the screw between the triggers for reducing set trigger let off). At one time I had a picture of the assy and what each part did and what I adjusted. Needless to say, I can't find it.
I found the diagram and notes I was referring to in the original post. It was in the Lyman GPR Manual of all places. Ha! The screw that is not numbered and is located behind the rear trigger needed to be backed off until it didn't touch the Trigger Main Spring when the triggers are not set. Then tighten screw until it touches the main spring and then slowly continue tightening until the Trigger Main Spring touches the set trigger cam. I keep tightening it and testing to see if the set trigger locks and the bar doesn't hit the lock sear arm.
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It's truly amazing what they put in those user manuals! Glad you found it; hopefully, the problem is solved!
~Kees~
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Yep Kees, it is amazing. The screw that I had to adjust is not shown. I found it on another forum 25-30 years ago. I made my notes in the manual, but forgot about it. Ha! Getting old is not good.
Now as to the RE Davis trigger assy. I bought one and it arrived today. Maybe I will get it installed into the flinter soon. I think I am going to like it.
Thanks to all who replied to this.
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I think the problem with the lock you put on the T/C PA Hunter, Kees, is the flint more batters the frizzen than scrapes it.
You might contact L&R and explain the problem with it. They do stand behind their products.
Just a thought.
~Kees~