Post by: Wyoming Mike on September 28, 2007, 11:35:31 AM
Post by: Wyoming Mike on September 28, 2007, 11:41:26 AM
It is to have a 14" length of pull, 2 1/4" drop at comb, 4" drop at heel and 8 3/4" drop at toe
It is to have 3/16 cast off to the left. (most cast off is to the right of course, but this is a LH rifle).
It is to be in a Lehigh County style, but starkly plain to keep it under budget.
I will start by laying out the rifle on paper. This will allow me to lay out the proportions according
to the specifications I mentioned above. I will use this pattern to rough cut the stock from the blank.
Lay the breeched barrel on a large enough piece of butcher paper.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Num1.jpg)
The barrel is then traced onto the paper.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Num2.jpg)
A line is drawn about 1/4" over the top of the barrel. This is the line of sight. All your drop measurements will be taken from here down to establish the stocks drop at comb, drop at heel and drop at toe.
In this picture I did it in blue so it's different than the black pencil lines.
The line for the barrel inlet section is drawn out. The barrel tracing is biceted. This line will be the top edge of the stock and it's breach end comes up to form the shoulder that will be the breaching shoulder. The lock plate is traced on now to set its relationship to the barrel. The vertical line at the rear of the lock tracing is where the sear bar is on the lock. This is needed for the next step.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Num3.jpg)
Now, I draw in a line 14" long at a downward angle so I will have my pull length. This rifle has double set triggers, so I have to offset 1/2" to get the correct LOP. In other words, you need to know that the trigger is sometimes farther forward to allow for set triggers. In some cases you also have to offset a bit for single triggers too. That's why you need to trace the position of the trigger as it relates to the lock/sear, so you have a place to measure from.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Num4.jpg)
From my line of sight I come down 2 1/4" for my drop at comb (which is always about 2" behind the nose of the comb where the wrist and comb come together) and I come down 4" at the end of the stock to get my drop at heel.
I trace in my buttplate being very careful to align the "return" of the butt plate with the comb line.
At this point I draw in the lines of the buttstock. It's a Lehigh style on this rifle. Once you have your drops and your length of pull, you just start to draw until you like what you see, but always keeping within the boundaries you set to make the gun fit the shooter.
Note that I leave about 1/4 of wood below the toe so it's not delicate as I inlet the butt plate later
I also leave about 3/16" of wood over the top of the breaching section so you have to go a bit deep there, and file the wood down as you inlet the barrel later.
These 2 places can be a problem if you cut your lines too tight, so leave a bit of wood and you will have fewer problems later.
I then come down from the bottom of the barrel tracing and draw in my ramrod, leaving 3/16" of "web" between the bottom of the barrel and the top of the rod channel. The "web" is the wood between the bottom of the barrel channel and the top of the rod channel and hole. With this gun, and any gun with a swamped barrel, you only measure at the breach and the muzzle 3/16" down, and let the web be a bit thicker in the middle where the wood will come up to meet the bottom of the swamp. My handrail section is 11" long, so I dogleg the drawing down to make the handrail section, and then bisect the rod from the entry point to the muzzle. This gives you a channel half the depth of the rod diameter for the long section of the stock, and gives me an 11" deep hole in the handrail.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Num5.jpg)
Here the stock is sawn out to the lines I drew and we have a stock ready to start building.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Num6.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on October 03, 2007, 11:44:30 AM
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/num7.jpg)
I have now inlet the breach end inlet 1/2 way into the wood so the barrel now lays on top of the stock. At this point the muzzle is clamped down so it can't move. You can offset it to one side or the other to make the center line of the barrel cast off to the side....................
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/num8.jpg)
This rifle casts to the left, as it's a left hand rifle This line is very important to the final fit of the stock, and should be drawn on with a marker so it won't rub off. It's going to be there until we inlet the butt plate and shape the comb and the butt stock.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA9.jpg)
A chisel is sharpened all from one side for this cut. You place the flat on the side of the barrel and hold it in place with the thumb. Press only hard enough to keep it flat. If you push hard you will flex the barrel. YOU DON'T WANT TO FLEX THE BARREL SIDE TO SIDE, SO USE VERY LITTLE SIDEWAYS PRESSURE AS YOU DO THIS.
Lightly tap the chisel to make a cut on the top of the stock.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA10.jpg)
Here I use a 2" wide chisel to deepen the cut.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA11.jpg)
Here you see the side cuts set in about 1/16" deep. I pencil down them so I can see them better.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA12.jpg)
I have drawn a cross section of a barrel channel. On a swamped barrel, the muzzle is wider and deeper than the waist of the barrel, and so is the breach end.
If you take 2 swamped barrels and lay them side by side on the floor, and then pinch then togather with your pinky and your thumb, you will see it takes VERY LITTLE to flex them.
When you flex the outside you flex and bend the bore. If you want a swamped barrel to shoot well it's ABSOLUTELY IMPERATIVE that the barrel not flex side to side or up and down when it's fully inlet.
I will make the first swath (A) in the stock to the half depth of the side flat. It's taller at the muzzle and at the breach than it is at the waist. I will make the 2nd swath to make the bottom flat of the inlet (B) to make sure the barrel is at correct depth. It's going to be 1/2 way into the wood, and it has to lay in a manor so that the bore remains straight.
So I measure the side flats with a caliper to the nearest .0001" at increments of about 4" and I divide it by 2 to get the depth. I do the same thing with the barrel itself to get the half diameter at about 3" increments
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA13.jpg)
I have those written measurements on the top of the stock at the points that they relate to the barrel.
Depth of side flats and depth of barrel, both divided in half.
I will then inlet to those depth with my tools and scrapers until I have the barrel to correct depth. I try to hold + or- .002" at every increment. This is the secret to getting a swamped barrel to shoot tiny little groups
I will show you how that's done in the next instalment.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA14.jpg)
Post by: Uncle Russ on October 11, 2007, 12:25:46 PM
**Let's try hard to keep our responses to questions directly related to this particular project....Personal Messages go a long way in preserving such a valuable thread!
Thanks!
Uncle Russ....
Post by: Wyoming Mike on October 12, 2007, 09:52:51 AM
Post by: Wyoming Mike on October 12, 2007, 10:11:17 AM
You have to get a bit deeper at 4" increments going towards the breach and the muzzle, as you start from the waist. So, to recap, you cut "channel A" full length at the shallowest depth, and then gently deepen it as you cut to it's final depth.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA15.jpg)
These are my initial cuts to make "channel B" of picture #13 Again, I take the 1/2 diameter of the barrel at the waist of the barrel and make this channel that deep for it's full length. Take pains with this! You want to be very precise and use the side of a file and a scraper to make sure it's the correct depth at ever 3" increment for the full length of the barrel. I do the procedure the same way as I did "Channel A". 1/2 the depth of the barrel at the waist, and then deepen it a bit at a time with files and scraper going towards the muzzle and then towards the breach.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA16.jpg)
This is the breach end and the roughed out "Channel B"
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA17.jpg)
This is the breach end of the channel as it's almost done.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA18.jpg)
Now I take a 1/4" chisel and I rough out the "45s" (45 degree angles on the bottom of the octagon barrel channel)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA19.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on October 26, 2007, 07:59:56 AM
Post by: Wyoming Mike on October 26, 2007, 08:15:03 AM
You have to use these tools to appreciate them. However they are a bit pricey. For building only a few guns you can do the same work with bent "foot rasps" which you can make out of mild steel and just make your own teeth with a 3 corner fail. They don't work as easily as the Gunline tools, but they will get you through a barrel channel. You just re-sharpen them with the file a few times per gun.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA20.jpg)
Here you can see the breach end is smoothed out with the gunline tool, and the bottom of the pic you can see the roughed out channel as it was left by the 1/4" chisel from Pic #19
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA21.jpg)
Here you see the use of a steel rule. Any straight non-flexing edge can be used. I lay it along the bottom and the "45s" and see if it will rock. Any rock shows you where the high spots are. You file them down until you have no dips and humps, and you go SLOW so as to not take more than a very few thousandths of an inch in depth so the barrel will not be flexed at all when it's installed.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA22.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA23.jpg)
I now indicate where I will drill a 1/16th hole to make the center of the barrel channel It will be the center of the rod channel later. I will drill it PERPENDICULAR to the top edge of the stock so it comes out in the exact center underneath the barrel, and so it comes out at the "dogleg" where the rod will enter the handrail.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA24.jpg)
The barrel is coated with inletting black and the fit is checked and small areas are scraped and filed to insure a perfect fit. Not that after the barrel is fitted for good I slab off the waste wood that was on the sides.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA25.jpg)
Now we breach the barrel. The threaded hole and the threaded nose of the plug have to be the same depth/length. This is a Colorain barrel, so it came to me breached, but if I were to do my own breaching I would first measure the hole with a depth gauge and either file the back of the barrel (if the hole was too deep) or the nose of the plug (if the nose was too long) until I had the correct length/depth relationship between the barrel and the plug.
Then you screw in the plug and if the stampings of the barrel are showing you would figure out how much you would have to file off BOTH the barrel and the plug to turn them so the stampings are down.
The math is easy
Let's say we have a 3/4X16 thread. There are 1000 thousandths in an inch, so 1000 divided by 16 = 62.5 Then you divide the 62.5 by 8 which equals 7.8. For each flat you need to advance to hide the stamping you would file about .008" off both the breach plug nose and the barrel. If you needed to go 1/4 turn it would be .014, and so on.
If you have 18 TPI the You would divide 1000 by 18 = 55.5 Divide that by 8 and we get 6.9 (close enough to .007 to call it that). You'd file .007" for each flat you needed to advance.
Easy!
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA26.jpg)
Here is the breached barrel, centered over the channel, and ready to inlet.
Make SURE that you keep the barrel to the rear and that the web of the breach plug, and the rear surface of the barrel are inlet tightly to the rear so you have solid wood to metal contact here.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA27.jpg)
Here is the breach plug inlet fully.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/TMA28.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 03, 2007, 07:24:27 AM
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 03, 2007, 07:32:46 AM
This shows an underlug laid on the barrel. You scribe a line on both sides of the dovetail.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_29.jpg)
This shows a series of saw kerfs cut to the depth of the lug. KEEP THE 2 OUTSIDE KERFS INSIDE THE 2 SCRIBE LINES about 1/32" so you don't cut away the female dovetail.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_30.jpg)
Now I set the barrel so the kerfs are even with the sides of the jaws of my vice. I saw out the tabs of steel. By setting the barrel this way in the vice, I cannot have the blade jump out of the cut and skid over the flat of the barrel. not important for under lugs, but the same technique is used on sights, so it's a good drill to learn. This keeps your flats nice, and unscarred.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_31.jpg)
Here I use a 3 corner file to smooth up the bottom and make the dovetail
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_32.jpg)
I then take a Vernier Caliper and measure the dovetail section of the underlug.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_33.jpg)
I use the depth gauge to measure the depth of the female dovetail.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_34.jpg)
With most 3 corner files, the edges of the files are not super sharp, so I use my jewelers saw to undercut the dovetails to proper length, and slowly file the length wider and wider, until I have the fit I want.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_35.jpg)
Here you can see the way it should be when it's all filed to fit.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_36.jpg)
Here the underlug is driven into it's dovetail slot, and it's perfectly level to the bottom of the barrel flat.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_37.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 03, 2007, 07:45:48 AM
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_38.jpg)
Now I transfer that measurement to the outside of the stock.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_39.jpg)
Now I come down 1/2 the diameter of the pin width, and drill the hole 1/2 way through the stock, so it's even with the bottom of the barrel flat on the inside, (as I did previously)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_40.jpg)
Here the barrel is clamped into the stock, and the pin holes drilled the rest of the way through.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_41.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 03, 2007, 08:16:33 AM
I now clamp a 3/8" piece of square stock to the bottom of the forestock. I align the end of it with the hole I drilled in picture 24. This insures the rod will be exactly at the 6:00 under the barrel where the dogleg of the stock is. (where the entry pipe will be inlet later) The square stock is clamped again at the muzzle end of the forstock so it's exactly centered under the muzzle.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_42.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_43.jpg)
A line is scribed down both sides of the 3/8" square stock, I filled them with pencil so you can see them better.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_44.jpg)
I have cut a square shoulder into the dogleg. this will give me a place to drill into later. I will then cut the channel to full depth, and as I do so, I will deepen this area too. I use a straight edge to make sure everything is level and parallel to the bore of the barrel. The under lugs in the front is your "depth gauge" and the hole is the rear depth gauge. You will have to make a measurement to know how deep to sand your rod channel on a swamped barrel, as the lug in the middle of the barrel will not be the same depth as the ones at either end. On a straight barrel, you'll be able to use the 1st and 2nd lugs as depth gauges.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_45.jpg)
I now take a 2" chisel and a gouge to "hog out" the channel. I get to within about 90% of full depth this way.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_46.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_47.jpg)
Here you see the work progressing.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_48.jpg)
I now take a dowel and wrap it in 60 grit sand paper to take the channel to it's final depth. If You are making a rifle with a 5/16 rod, use a 1/4" dowel. If you are using a 3/8" rod, use a 5/16" dowel. For a 7/16" rod use a 3/8" dowel. The wrap of the paper will bring them up to correct diameter as you sand.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_49.jpg)
Here is the finished channel.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_50.jpg)
Now lay your rod drill into the channel and drill to full depth. I use grease to lube the drill, and clear the chips out about every 3/8" of drilling. If you don't clear the chips the drill will drift off line, and you'll have REAL problems later.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_51.jpg)
Here is the rod, slipped into the stock. Make sure you are deep enough so you don't wend up with a rod that's too short. I like to have them about 1/2" longer than the bore of the barrel. When everything is perfect, cut the ramrod to length.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_52.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 03, 2007, 09:45:04 AM
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_53.jpg)
Here you have another view of the butt plate installed. I will then file and plane the excess wood down around the butt so everything fits nicely.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_54.jpg)
Next I install the muzzlecap, and shape the wood around it. I sand it down to it's final finish, about 400 grit, for about 3/4 inch back. I will also polish the brass to it's final stage here, and then I have no work to do later on it.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_55.jpg)
At this stage of the build I inlet my lock plate. I plane, file and sand the outmost flat to it's finished surface and make it the right thickness so the bottom of the lock bevel is even all the way around the plate with the top of the wood. I then shape the lock area all around. When it's done, I copy it to the "off side" of the stock, so I have an identical panel on the other side, also taken down to it's final height, and sanded to 400 grit.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_56.jpg)
Here you take your side plate, and bend and/or file it so it fits within the inside boundaries of the lock plate. You know the side plate will fit if you do this now, because you know the lock plate fits your panels, and the side plate is within it's outside boundaries. This one is hand made as it's a left hand Lehigh style, and no one makes such a part, so I made it myself.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_57.jpg)
I now locate the point where I want my lock bolt to intersect with my lock plate and I drill through the stock and the breach plug bolster with the ROOT drill. I am using a 10X32 bolt here, so I am drilling with a #22 drill.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_58.jpg)
I have C-Clamped the lock plate into the stock, and with the same #22 drill, I go back through from the off side to make the root hole in the lock plate.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_59.jpg)
Here I take a #8 Clearance drill, and I drill through wood and the bolster of the breach plug, but i stop as soon as it touches the lock plate.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_60.jpg)
Here I tap the hole with a 10X32 tap. Doing this in this fashion as outlined in these last four steps will give you absolutely perfect alignment of your bolt and holes It's important to keep your barrel clamped down through all this too, so the hole through the breach plug is also in perfect alignment.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_61.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 03, 2007, 09:53:17 AM
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TNA_62.jpg)
I now take a 60 degree V tool and cut around the inside of the pencil line. Get about 1/32" away from it, but don't cut into the line.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_63.jpg)
Now hog out the wood inside the V cut.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_64.jpg)
Paint inletting black (or blue) on your side plate and screw it down again. Tap around it's edge with a tool handle and it will make a sharp print like this. You then take small SHARP tools and trim away the black until you get a good level fit.............
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_65.jpg)
Like this!
At this point of the project, you will inlet all your "lock guts"
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_66.jpg)
Now I plane down the toeline as I want it, and rough shape the buttstock to it's final form.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_67.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_68.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_69.jpg)
Post by: mike rumping on November 03, 2007, 04:29:32 PM
My wife just walked in, saw what I was lookin' at,
and said, "No way can we afford it now!!!" Oh well.
Post by: Indiana on November 03, 2007, 06:11:50 PM
I had a terrible time with mine and it dosen't look the best, but its on there!
Post by: Indiana on November 04, 2007, 09:32:42 AM
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 10, 2007, 07:30:20 AM
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_70.jpg)
Here we see that I have beveled some of the waste wood away, and have inlet and pinned the entry pipe.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_71.jpg)
Here the stock is shaped and sanded to 400 grit, from the lock area to the muzzle.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_72.jpg)
Here are the tools I will use to cut a simple line molding. If it were to be a relief molding I would still start the same way. However for a proud molding you simply relieve all the wood from the molding up leaving a shoulder. Then you cut the molding into any shape you like with gouges and files. The budget on this rifle doesn't allow for such fancy work, but the principals are the same.
I trace a line at the spacing I want, using the flexible straight edge. I come in next with the V tool and carefully cut it full length. I use the edge of a file to make it straight, and then under cut it with a checkering tool.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_73.jpg)
Here you see the line cut full length and full depth. (sorry for the poor photography, but if you look carefully you can see what I am trying to show you all)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_74.jpg)
Here I inlet the front pipe, and mathematically figure out the spacing for the middle pipe. You can see the pencil lines for it's placement coming........>>>>>>
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_75.jpg)
...here. All 3 pipes are now inlet, and the forstock is completely finished and ready to stain.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_76.jpg)
Here the buttstock is shaped and sanded. The lower edge is fully sanded to it's final grit. I then cut the lower butt moldings in.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_77.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 16, 2007, 08:51:57 AM
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_78.jpg)
I am now cutting a line all the way around the inside of the inlay with a V tool.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_79.jpg)
Here you see the V trench finished. I then take small chisels and gouges and cut straight down around the black print made by the blackened inlay. The wood gives way, but it collapses into the V trench, so the mortise for the inlay doesn't get too big.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_80.jpg)
The toe plate is inlet 100%, and sanded smooth. The whole toe line of the stock is then sanded to 400 grit.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_81.jpg)
On this rifle I am using double set triggers (a deviation from the real Lehigh county style, but it's what the customer wanted). I strip the triggers down and lay the trigger plate on the center line of the stock, and align the set screw hole with the lock's sear bar. I trace a line around the trigger bar with a pencil. I have a hole for a wood screw in the rear of the bar. I use the V tool to trench around the inside of the line I just drew. I then blacken the underside of the bar, and screw it down in it's proper position. I tap around it and then remove the screw. As you can see, it leaves me sharp lines where it will need to be inlet
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_82.jpg)
I have the bar inlet completely. I drill a simple divot where I want my tang screw to come out.
I am using a 10x32 bolt, so I use a number 22 drill here. That's the root size for a 10x32.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_83.jpg)
I drill a similar divot where I want my tang bolt to go in.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_84.jpg)
Here's a cool trick. I have a screw adjustable vice, but all you really need is a piece of wood with a short nail pounded through it and a drill press. You will move the nail around until it's point to point with the drill in your chuck.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_85.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_86.jpg)
Here I have run the drill bit down so you can see what I mean. It's point to point with the nail.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_87.jpg)
I set the nail into the divot I made in the trigger bar. The drill bit is still aligned with it. I move the rifle until the drill bit is in the divot I made in the tang. now I drill halfway through. You go halfway, and then reverse the rifle and come from the other side. The minimizes any "run-out" of the bit.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_88.jpg)
(if you don't have a drill press, you will have to just try to get things aligned by eye, and by feel. Have someone help you by viewing the angle of your drill from 90 degrees off from where you are viewing it, and try to get things aligned as well as you can)
Here I have moved the rifle back to my bench, and I drill a clearance hole through the tang and the wood. In this case, I use a number 9 drill.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_89.jpg)
Now I tap my hole.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_90.jpg)
Here you see the tap coming out. The alignment is perfect if you do it this way.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_91.jpg)
I now counter sink the screw hole. Screw in your tang bolt and cut it off to the correct length from the other side.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_92.jpg)
Post by: Wyoming Mike on November 16, 2007, 08:53:27 AM
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_93.jpg)
Shows the rough sand cast trigger guard. I file and polish it to it's final form before I inlet it.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_95.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_95.jpg)
Shows it ready to inlet.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_96.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_97.jpg)
I have inlet the trigger guard. I lift it clear in this pic so you can see the mortises and tabs.
Drill your pin holes half way through, so you can see them come out in the tab mortises. Then clamp the trigger guard in place and drill the rest of the way through.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_98.jpg)
Here you see it in place, and pinned.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_99.jpg)
Here the rifle is assembled. I do this to get the point of balance. If this rifle had a patch box it would have been inlet by now, right after I had inlet the toe plate. If a rifle has a patch box it's going to effect the balance a little. You remove wood, but you put some wood (for a wood box) or metal (for a metal box) back in it's place. You can't guess as to how it will effect the balance exactly. So reassemble and mark the point of balance. You will install the rear sight so it's wither forward of the hand as the gun is carried, or behind it. If your eyes are old, put it forward. If you have young and/or very good vision, put the sight behind the hand as you carry the rifle at it's balance.
I have it on a table corner so you can see it here.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_100.jpg)
Here I have installed the rear sight.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/TMA_101.jpg)
The rifle is now ready for finish.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b32/mchapin/Rifle%20Build/Tma_102.jpg)
If you have followed these steps you will find that your finish time is very much reduced. I have sanded everything down as I built, so the stock is at 220 grit in most places and in some places it's all the way down to 400 grit.
So I will now do all the staining and oil finish on the stock. When it's done and ready for the customer. I then sight in the rifle.
I will then strip the rifle down and do the last polishing of brass and steel (which is very minimal because of the way I did most of it as I built the gun) and brown the parts. When it's done even the marks of the drifts and files from sighting in will be finished and new looking. I then reassemble the rifle and it's ready to hunt with.
Steve Zihn
Post by: Minnesota Mike on May 22, 2008, 05:40:08 PM
By any chance did you document that step as well?
r/
MM
Post by: Uncle Russ on May 22, 2008, 08:15:24 PM
Perhaps, sometime, when you have time, you might want to do a stand-alone thread on Flash holes.....including your own thoughts and experience with them.
A lot of old wives tales abound on the subject, and sometimes it's hard, for the newbie, and the old hand for that matter, to separate the wheat from the chafe.
Respectfully, Uncle Russ...
Post by: idahjo on May 29, 2008, 10:07:14 PM
Post by: burch on May 02, 2012, 11:29:31 AM
Post by: pathfinder on May 02, 2012, 12:09:57 PM
Post by: Voyageur on May 02, 2012, 12:49:56 PM
Post by: petew on August 16, 2014, 09:54:44 PM
Thanks
Pete
Post by: sse on August 16, 2014, 10:08:46 PM
Quote from: "petew"
Threads like this are so good to follow. I am in the process of my first long rifle build, and these type threads show me so much valuable information and technique.That's good...
Thanks
Pete
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 26, 2021, 06:48:35 PM
Nice work by the way,I am restocking a LymanGPR any special hints on working out the barrel Chanel considering the inleting for the seperate tang hook mount,I had actually considered routing the barrel channel with a flat channel bit or dado and a 45 deg. Vee bit but I have the tools to do it your way too,never Inletted a octagon barrel before ( can you tell?)lol. I had this curly maple for awhile working out how to do it right .it is bandsawed to the contour but I have been wondering about the barrel channel and all the attendant stuff for a couple years and want to get it done
I also have a trade gun/ Fowler that is of an 1830 age that will require my making a half octagon half round barrel inlet into an as yet undetermined length stock ,I received it as what I thought was a half stock with a really wrecked and dry rotted stock now I think it was longer and some other issues as well but the barrel and hardware is serviceable ,posted in caplock long arms if your interested but I have need to know how to inlet to succeed in these projects ,thanks.
Post by: Winter Hawk on February 26, 2021, 07:14:23 PM
Post by: shootrj2003 on February 26, 2021, 08:31:06 PM