Welcome to the TMA - the Traditional Muzzleloading Association

The TMA is always free to access: totally non-profit and therefore no nagging for your money, no sponsors means no endless array of ads to wade through, and no "membership fees" ever required. Brought to you by traditional muzzleloaders with decades of wisdom in weaponry, accoutrements, and along with 18th and 19th century history knowledge of those times during the birth our nation, the United States of America.

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Recent Posts

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11
Bravo, Rob.  A well done capture of arms used in the Rev War by the winning side.

Another possible topic of conversation is what arms the Lewis and Clark Expedition really used. 
I would really enjoy your take on that.
12
Rob, I really enjoyed this posting. Lots of great information and history. I hope others read and enjoy it as much as I have.
13
TMA Information 2026 / Re: A Major Change to Our TMA is Now in Progress
« Last post by Salty on January 30, 2026, 11:16:49 AM »
Make mine a donation also.
I vote for half to DAV, half to St Judes.
14
General Interest / flash rust in bore?
« Last post by Salty on January 30, 2026, 11:11:36 AM »
after I clean my rifle, I swab it out with an alcohol saturated patch. I let it air dry. Run a dry patch. Then swab with a patch saturated with Ballistol. I leave a Ballistol patch on the ramrod inserted in the bore down to the breech. A few days later, I remove the rod with the patch and have found a bit of FLASH RUST.
Is this normal?
Did I not dry the bore sufficiently? Should I use a hair dryer or heat gun?

What do you all do to prevent this?
15
TMA Information 2026 / Re: A Major Change to Our TMA is Now in Progress
« Last post by Winter Hawk on January 30, 2026, 09:49:14 AM »
Make mine a donation also.  If we are deciding where to donate to, I vote for the St. Jude's/DAV option.

~Kees~
16
TMA Information 2026 / Re: A Major Change to Our TMA is Now in Progress
« Last post by Two Steps on January 30, 2026, 06:23:44 AM »
Yep?use mine for the donation too. So many worthy places, those mentioned, Wounded Warrior, Shriners Children's Hospital? :shake
17
New to Traditional Muzzleloaders? / Re: Used Traditional Muzzleloaders
« Last post by rollingb on January 29, 2026, 07:25:57 PM »

Very good advice!   :bl th up
18
New to Traditional Muzzleloaders? / Maintaining a Military Musket
« Last post by RobD on January 29, 2026, 07:01:25 PM »
Maintaining a Military Musket

Cleanliness is next to reliability. Failure to keep a firelock clean - particularly directly
after an event or range shooting - will degrade reliability.

Here?s an easy to understand quick synopsis of all the verbose verbiage that follows
in this document ? always keep your musket?s barrel and lock clean.

Prior to shooting, I know my musket is clean and barring any component failure
should therefore be reliable. The hammer steel (frizzen) face and pan cover, pan, flint
edge, and touch hole are brightly clean. The entire lock and bore are clean and have
a very light and sparse hint of oil, as a preservative. In the bbl (barrel) is left a jagged
rod along with an oily patch. It is ready for duty service - ignition, detonation, firing -
once the bbl oil preservative is swabbed out.

At an event, I may prime, load, and fire my Bess in succession as many as a dozen
times. Not all firelocks can do this, and some can do far more good firings with
naught a pan flash or lack of spark.

Know your firelock. The only way to understand its limits is through practical blank
firing practice, as well as proper maintenance. This is NOT about firing live ball loads.
Practice blank loads of 10 to 20 grains will get the job done, no need to waste good
powder.

After a number of firings (whatever any firelock can offer reliably, be it a few or
many), clean the hammer face and pan cover, pan, flint edge, and touch hole. Some
firelocks will require this cleaning after only a few firings, some can go for a dozen or
more firings without any cleaning. Some bbls, with event blank firing, will also
require cleaning.

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~

IMPORTANT FOR REENACTORS!


The more blanks fired at an event, the more black powder residue will accumulate
within the bbl. These firings can happen sporadically and over a good period of time
that could be well over an hour to many hours. This happens because only powder
goes into the bbl - no paper cartridge, patch, or ball is loaded with a ramrod which
will have some manner of cleaning effect.

If there is a break in the firing activities where access to a proper cleaning rod with
jag and cleaning patches, or musket rod with worm and tow or cotton balls, plus oil
or cleaning solvent (or at least just water or spit!), that's always a good thing.

Within a matter of minutes the powder residue can cake and harden. Thrusting a wet
patch down the tube may find it hard to navigate the entire bbl length or even make
it difficult to remove the patched jag rod. It?s best to first plug the touch hole with a
round toothpick, stand the firelock on its butt and fill the bbl with either plain tepid
water or a mixture of water soluble oil (Ballistol) and water in a ratio of between 1:6
to 1:10 of oil:water. Let it stand for 5 minutes or so, pull the toothpick to relieve the
liquid, begin running wet patches down the bore to clean. If firing will further
commence, run dry patches down the bore. If the event is over and after doing the
aforementioned cleaning, run a final oil soaked patch down the bore and leave it
there while on the ride back home whence final proper cleaning can be done.
Barrel removal is not required for routine cleaning, but for guns used at least a few
times per month it is good to pull the bbl off once a year or so for cleaning the side
that sits within the stock as well as the stock bbl channel itself.

NOTE #1: Any and all wooden rods with threaded end ferrules for screwing in a jag
must have the ferrules pin staked to the rod, else if the patched jag gets stuck down
the tube due to excessive powder residue the rod may separate from the jag. Ask me
how I know this can and will happen!

NOTE #2: Should anything get lodged in the bbl that absolutely can't be removed,
there are 2 methods of blockage extraction. (1) Use compressed air sent into the
touch hole to blast out the obstruction, or (2) with proper tools, remove the bbl, then
remove the breech plug to get access to the entire length of the bbl. 

Along with addressing bbl cleanliness, so should cleaning the lock pan, hammer
steel, flint edge, and touch hole also be addressed. Cleanliness makes for reliability!

~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~

When the event or range practice firing has ended, as immediately as possible after
the last shot is taken, it's time to begin "early maintenance". All that entails is wiping
down the entire lock with an oily cloth, remove much of the black powder fouling
residue, then run one oily patch down and out the bore, then run another oily patch
down the bore and leave it in the barrel. That's it. This will make full cleaning go
quickly and easily whence you are back at your homestead. This is particularly
important for soldiers who will have a long trek back home, where during the trip
firelock fouling residue begins to congeal and harden, be difficult to remove, and if
left too long will begin to corrode metal.

Cleanliness is next to reliability, but also ease of maintenance.

A full and complete cleaning can be accomplished in as little as 15 minutes.

Cleaning Tools and Equipment That I Employ

Ballistol oil. I prefer this oil (a mineral oil blend that's non-toxic) because it's not only
great for metal, it's good for wood and leather - it's water soluble and will mix with
any residual water to prevent rusting. It's an early 20th century German military
lubricant. I use both an aerosol spray and pump spritzer.

"Moose Milk" - This is a 1:6 mix of Ballistol:water. I keep it in a small flip top bottle
and use it with a patched jag for barrel bore cleaning and fouling control.
100% cotton patch material - typically a 2" square or round of cut up clothing is fine
as long as it's 100% cotton and not any synthetic blend. Cotton balls on a patch
worm jag also works well.

A gunsmith quality screwdriver for removing stock lock screws. This is a hollow
ground screwdriver that with a thin blade to fit 18th century type screws. A rather
wide one will be required to remove the lock and the cock jaws (some cock jaws also
include a hole where a large nail can be used to open and close the jaws without the
need to use a screwdriver.

A stout wooden (hickory is good) ramrod with a brass jag that is commensurate in
diameter for cleaning out the bore diameter of your musket. As a reenactor, all that
matters is the loading and firing of blank cartridge powder, so the metal rod is only
needed to proof an unloaded bbl. If out on a skirmish and your firelock's bbl requires
fouling control, it will take time to remove the rod, screw in the cleaning patch worm,
apply tow or cotton balls, and work out the fouling (this is where saliva spit on the
patch or tow or cotton balls helps to break up the residue).

Round toothpicks for plugging touch holes.

Paper toweling and/or cotton rags for wiping down and cleaning.

A pail, pot, or bowl for lock cleaning.

A stiff bristle nylon toothbrush.

Access to plain tap water access. NO other "cleaning fluids" required.

NO hot water ... ever.

My Cleaning Process

Remove the patched jag that was left in the barrel.

Remove the lock and remove its padded flint. Place the entire lock in

Plug the barrel touch hole with a round toothpick, stand the musket on its butt, pour
tepid tap water down the barrel (NO soap or other "cleaning" liquids). The bbl can be
fully filled, but 2/3rds to 3/4ths is fine so that bbl water overflow won't be dripped
onto stock wood.

The lock is scrubbed with a stiff nylon toothbrush. Scrub and flush with clean tepid
tap water (hot water isn't necessary or wanted). When the lock is clean, shake off
excess water and then pat dry with a cloth or paper towel. Spray or wipe oil all over
the lock. Use a cloth or paper towel to remove all excess oil - only a hint of oil
remains. I?ll also apply a scant drop of very fine oil to all moving parts pivot points.
Dump out the barrel water. With a proper size brass jag on a ramrod, a patch well
soaked in Moose Milk is run down the bore ?til it touches the breech plug face. Twist
the rod around a few times to clean the plug?s face. Remove the patch. Employ a
new oiled patch and do it again. Repeat for a total of 3 to 6 patches. Patches will
NEVER come out perfectly clean. This is due to fouling getting into the molecules of
the bbl metal. In comparison to the heavy dark black fouling of the first patch, the
last patch will just appear as a light grayish color. The bore is clean ? waste no more
cleaning efforts.

Replace the lock and its padded flint.

Run down and out 2 to 3 dry patches. Run down and leave the rod with jagged oily
patch down the bbl.

Done.

Firelocks In General

Use the correct size knapped English black or French amber flint in the lock?s cock
jaws, commensurate in size with your musket?s lock size.

Square up the flint's cutting edge to the hammer steel face.Keep flint edges SHARP -
 know how to properly knap a flint edge.

Try sparking a flint as bevel up and bevel down and see which position hits the
hammer steel face and sparks the best.

Keep the lock innards clean and lightly lubed.

In my many decades of working on offshore built muskets (and rifles) with flat faced
breech plugs, 99% of the time I've found the breech plug face has been partially
drilled into when the touch hole had been drilled. This leaves a narrow trough in the
breech face that will quickly and readily accumulate black powder residue that can
block the heat of a pan flash from getting to the chamber powder upon firing. This
can necessitate constant touch hole picking to clean it out, wasting time. The fix is to
pull the bbl out of the stock, pull the breech plug and expand that narrow plug face
channel 3 or 4 times wider than it is, using a Dremel tool with a coned stone bit.

100% of all offshore (and some onshore) built flintlock long guns will have breech
plugs installed either dry or with some manner of oil. ANYTHING screwed into a bbl
will quickly find its threads compromised by black powder residue that will harden
and make removal almost impossible. The fix for this is to remove anything screwed
into the bbl, coat its threads with anti-seize grease - oil alone will not protect threads
- and reassemble. Fouling compromised threaded objects such as breech plugs can
be removed by sending steam down the bbl to soften the black powder residue.

A good flint that makes a good strike on the hammer steel but produces little or no
sparks typically means the hammer steel face needs re-hardening, which requires
special knowledge, components, and tooling - take it to a gunsmith.

A good lock that is clean and properly set up will not only be reliable but will work
well with coarse black powder as large grained as 1-1/2F, or even coarser, in both its
pan and tube.

There is more, but the above is a good start for firelock maintenance and reliable
firing.

 [ Invalid Attachment ]
19
   My overall take of what was used by the Continental Army from 1775 to 1783 started off with militia farmers toting fowlers and the use of hatchets, tomahawks, knives, and swords as their CQB (close quarter battle) weapon.  Some militia had their fowlers modified for socket spike bayonets and whilst plug bayonets saw some limited service in the F&I war, there is no mention of their use during the AWI ... but ... who really knows for sure.  I strongly suspect that whatever was handy and most viable, was used.

   There was no initial Continental Army regimental coat, only a large variety of simple clothes.  The Fall of 1779 was when the red trimmed blue regimental came to being as ordered by General Washington.  I suspect that simple clothes were still used by some, and right on up to 1783 ... as well as fowlers.

   The Continental Army during the American Revolutionary War (1775 - 1783) relied on a mix of muskets due to initial shortages, limited domestic production, and evolving foreign aid. No single model was universally "standard" across all units or years, but patterns shifted over time.

A "musket" is specifically a military weapon that is a fowler by general design in that it is a smoothbore but with an average bore of between .650"and .800", have a very robust stock (typically of walnut wood), will have the ability to accept a socket spike bayonet, and will weigh between 10 and 12 pounds.  In comparison, a typical fowler will have a bore of between .500" and .650" but some could go to.800", have a light weight stock of between 6 and 7 pounds, and will not normally have the capacity to accept a socket spike bayonet.

Having a musket with a bayonet is a military advantage.

On the matter of the use of the bayonet, it clearly was the best close quarter combat weapon because there was at least a four foot distance between combatants and the weight of the musket or fowler or smoothbore turned any bayonet equipped firearm into a fairly deadly spear.  A patriot having a firelock with no bayonet, and only a hand held knife or tomahawk whence charged at by a Redcoat wielding a bayonet on the muzzle end of their Bess musket was for the most part a big patriot disadvantage. 

Having a fowler/smoothbore with a plug bayonet was better than having no bayonet.

I believe that there were many variations to the weapons and accoutrements and clothing of the AWI patriots and soldiers - far more so for the first 2 or 3 years, to a lesser degree as the war progressed.  If your town or state militia joined the early Continental Army, it was far more likely you arrived with a fowler/smoothbore and some manner of blade(s).  The advantage of having a bayonet would hit home quickly.  Some fowlers/smoothbores were retrofitted with socket bayonets - stocks were cut off at the muzzle and a socket lug was brazed on to accept a bayonet that was made for the bbl's muzzle area dimensions.  There are documents and preserved guns with provenance of such added socket bayonets.  While there is documentation and original artifacts for the use of plug bayonets in the French & Indian war, non exists for the Revolutionary war ... but ... common sense would think that it is quite likely that there was at least some use of plug bayonets in the AWI, at the very least within 1775 aand 1776, when the Continental Army was made up of militia with their fowlers, dressed in their simple clothes.

1775 -1776 (Early War)

    * Primary models: Various British Long Land Pattern and Short Land Pattern muskets (collectively known as the "Brown Bess", .75 caliber smoothbore).
    * These were the most common firearms, sourced from colonial militias' pre-war stocks, captured British supplies, seized royal armories, and personal weapons brought by recruits.
    * Committee of Safety muskets: American-made copies, often patterned after the Brown Bess, produced under colonial or state contracts (e.g., by local gunsmiths fearing British reprisal, so rarely maker-marked). These were composite arms using mixed imported and domestic parts.
    * Other assorted smoothbore muskets (e.g., older Dutch, Spanish, or fowling pieces) were also used due to desperate shortages.
    * French aid was minimal and secret at this stage; the army was poorly equipped overall.

1777 - 1783 (Mid-to-Late War)
Primary models: French Charleville muskets, specifically the Model 1763 and Model 1766 (.69 caliber smoothbore).
    * Large shipments began arriving in 1777 (e.g., ~25,000 - 60,000 in initial batches, even before the formal 1778 alliance with France), with totals estimated at 48,000 - 100,000 over the war.
    * These became the most common firearm for Continental line infantry, especially after major arrivals in 1777 - 1778, due to their reliability, lighter weight compared to the Brown Bess, and standardized supply.
    * Captured or remaining Brown Bess muskets continued in use (e.g., boosted by captures like Saratoga in 1777).
    * Limited American production (e.g., at Rappahannock Forge in Virginia or Philadelphia facilities) provided copies of British or French patterns.
    & The later French Model 1777 Charleville was used only by French expeditionary troops under Rochambeau (arriving 1780), not issued to Continental soldiers.

Overall, the shift from predominantly British-pattern arms early on to French Charleville models later reflected France's critical role in arming the Continentals. Rifles (e.g., Pennsylvania/Kentucky long rifles) were used by specialized units but not as standard infantry weapons due to slower loading and lack of bayonet compatibility.

Fowlers (also called fowling pieces) were smoothbore flintlock firearms primarily designed for hunting birds and small game. They were lighter, often had varied bores, and lacked bayonet mounts in most cases, making them less ideal for military use compared to standardized muskets.Usage in the Continental Army - Fowlers were relatively common in the early years of the American Revolutionary War (1775 - 1777), particularly among militia and initial Continental recruits who brought their own personal firearms. Many colonists owned fowlers as everyday hunting guns, and colonial militia laws often required only a "good firearm," which frequently meant a fowler.At the war's outset (e.g., Battles of Lexington and Concord in 1775), militiamen and early Continental soldiers used a mix of weapons, including fowlers, older muskets, and rifles. Sources note that New England-style fowlers were among the most common arms for militia, and mixed arms (including fowling pieces) were present even in Continental line regiments as late as 1778.

Fowlers declined significantly in usage after 1777 - 1778 due to:
    * Large shipments of French Charleville muskets (Models 1763/1766) arrived, providing standardized, reliable .69-caliber smoothbores with bayonets.
    * Captured British Brown Bess muskets (.75-caliber) also became widespread.

These military muskets were preferred for line infantry tactics, as fowlers were lighter and more fragile, had inconsistent bores (complicating ammunition supply), and usually could not mount bayonets effectively.By the later war years (1778 -1783), the Continental Army was largely re-equipped with Charlevilles (the primary weapon) and Brown Besses, with fowlers mostly relegated to militia or irregular use.Overall Frequency Fowlers were not rare early on but never the dominant weapon; they were part of a "motley assortment" of arms due to initial shortages. Historians describe them as common in 1775 - 1776 militia/early Continental forces but phased out as standardization improved.

Fowling pieces (fowlers), which were civilian smoothbore shotguns primarily designed for hunting birds, were commonly used by American forces early in the American Revolutionary War (1775 - 1783), especially among militia and some Continental Army units. These guns were lighter, often longer-barreled, and not originally built for military use, with varied bores and no standard provision for bayonets.

Plug bayonets - the early type that inserted directly into the muzzle (blocking the barrel from firing) ? were largely obsolete in European armies by the early 18th century.

Socket bayonets (which fit over the muzzle and allowed firing) became standard around 1700 - 1720.Fowlers were not typically equipped with plug bayonets during the Revolutionary War. Most fowlers lacked a bayonet lug or stud, as they were hunting weapons. Some were modified for military service by cutting back the stock and adding a socket bayonet lug, but this was uncommon and makeshift.

Plug bayonets saw limited or no documented use with fowlers in the Continental Army. The Continental Army faced severe bayonet shortages overall in the early war years (1775 - 1777), with many units having few or none.

Bayonets in use were predominantly socket types, often on imported French Charleville muskets (starting 1777 - 1778) or captured British Brown Bess muskets.Fowlers were most prevalent in 1775 - 1777, when the Continental Army relied heavily on personally owned civilian firearms (including fowlers, rifles, and mixed muskets). Baron von Steuben noted in 1778 that arms included "muskets, carbines, fowling pieces and rifles" in the same units.

As French aid increased (thousands of Charleville muskets with socket bayonets from 1778 onward), standardized military muskets largely replaced fowlers in regular Continental line units by the later war years (1778 - 1783).In summary, fowlers with plug bayonets were rare to nonexistent in the Continental Army, and fowlers themselves were used sporadically and decreasingly from 1775 to around 1778, giving way to proper muskets equipped with socket bayonets.

The French Model 1766 infantry musket (often called the Charleville musket) was not produced in a single factory. It was manufactured at France's three primary royal arsenals: Charleville (in Charleville-Mzires, Ardennes region), Saint-Etienne, and Maubeuge.Production occurred mainly between 1766 and around 1769, with approximately 140,000 units made across these sites. Charleville was the most prominent or namesake arsenal (giving the generic "Charleville" label to the entire family of French muskets), and many surviving examples bear its markings, but significant numbers were also produced at the other two. Some sources note additional minor production at places like Tulle, though the core output came from the three main arsenals.This multi-site manufacturing was standard for French military muskets of the era, allowing for high-volume production while maintaining design consistency. The Model 1766 was a lightened improvement over the heavier Model 1763, and both patterns (especially 1763/1766) were widely supplied to American forces during the Revolutionary War.

The French Model 1766 infantry musket (often called the Charleville musket) was not produced in a single factory. It was manufactured at France's three primary royal arsenals: Charleville (in Charleville-Mzires, Ardennes region), Saint-Etienne, and Maubeuge.Production occurred mainly between 1766 and around 1769, with approximately 140,000 units made across these sites. Charleville was the most prominent or namesake arsenal (giving the generic "Charleville" label to the entire family of French muskets), and many surviving examples bear its markings, but significant numbers were also produced at the other two. Some sources note additional minor production at places like Tulle, though the core output came from the three main arsenals.This multi-site manufacturing was standard for French military muskets of the era, allowing for high-volume production while maintaining design consistency. The Model 1766 was a lightened improvement over the heavier Model 1763, and both patterns (especially 1763/1766) were widely supplied to American forces during the Revolutionary War.

The French Model 1777 musket (Mod'le 1777), commonly known as the Charleville musket, was not produced in a single factory. France manufactured it across several royal or state armories (manufactures d'armes) to meet high demand during the late 18th and early 19th centuries.The primary production sites included:

Charleville (Manufacture d'armes de Charleville, in Charleville-Mzires) - the most famous, giving the musket its common name, though not the sole or even predominant producer.

Saint-?tienne (Manufacture d'armes de Saint-Etienne) - often cited as one of the largest producers.

Maubeuge (Maubeuge Arsenal). Tulle (Manufacture d'armes de Tulle).

Other sites contributed occasionally. Production of the 1777 model and its variants (including the corrected "an IX" version) totaled around 7 million units from 1777 into the 1840s, making it one of the most prolifically manufactured firearms of its era.Muskets typically bore markings indicating their specific manufactory (e.g., on the lockplate), such as "Manuf. Imp. de Charleville" or "Manufacture de St. Etienne." The design's standardization across these state-run facilities helped enable mass production and influenced later firearms, including early U.S. models like the Springfield 1795.

20
New to Traditional Muzzleloaders? / Used Traditional Muzzleloaders
« Last post by RobD on January 29, 2026, 06:23:52 PM »
Used firearms can be a very good way to get a really good gun and save some good dollars and thus a good overall value.

Buying hands on is arguably better than buying online, but only if you know what to look for, how to properly assess both issues and therefore value.  It would pay to have someone knowledgeable tag along and give the prospective gun a good look over.

Buying online can be good if you know who the seller is and know that person's track record of both online forum posts and sales. At the very least get a day or so "look over" return, where the lock, barrel, stock, and furniture can be hands-on assessed. 
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