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91
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by No Powder on January 10, 2026, 05:05:52 PM »
I think I tried some .530's. Tumbled against not tumbled. IIRC, the tumbled ones shot a bit tighter group than those that weren't tumbled. But that one time didn't prove a thing. Could have been some human error involved.
92
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by RobD on January 10, 2026, 04:13:40 PM »
I seem to have pretty good success with Lee molds too. But I will tumble those until there is a little dimple where the sprue was. Takes about an hour and I load that little dimple up.

I've done Exhaustive testing with Lee cast balls - loading sprue cutoff up and tumbling the balls till there is no clue where the sprue was in the first place.  None matter for consistent accuracy, so I gave the tumbling up (though darn if tumbling didn't seem like the right thing to do).
93
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by No Powder on January 10, 2026, 03:32:50 PM »
I seem to have pretty good success with Lee molds too. But I will tumble those until there is a little dimple where the sprue was. Takes about an hour and I load that little dimple up.
94
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by RobD on January 10, 2026, 02:23:00 PM »
Fluxing either "pure" lead or tin:lead alloy, along with stirring it all up well, will get any impurities (that are lighter than lead) to float up as dross that's to be removed (don't do that with yer ladle, do it with a spoon). 

So far, and after trying a buncha molds where some cost big buck$, the best ball molds for me are by Lee.
95
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by No Powder on January 10, 2026, 02:08:37 PM »
Thanks guys. I always thought that fluxing would mix all the impurities and lead together and then there wouldn't be anything coming to the top to skim off. Like usual, I must have figured wrong. I use to put a little paraffin or bees wax in, but I believe I'll be fluxing a little more often. I probably have all the round balls I need. But I'll still make some more because I like doing it. Make most of mine with a bag mold, so it takes a little more time. Cutting sprue and smoothing them a bit.
96
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by doggoner on January 10, 2026, 11:58:07 AM »
From what I'm reading, it doesn't matter what kind of sawdust or shavings you use. Is that correct?
Pretty much.  It has to be DRY, you don't want to risk adding wet sawdust or shavings and getting a visit from the tinsel fairies.

I stick with sawdust from poplar/pine/oak/cherry (but those are the woods I cut the most).  Sticking with the lighter-colored woods makes it easier for me to see if I'm getting woods that I know will mess up my sinuses.  But they all work. 

YMMV, of course.

The dry part is VERY important!! The tinsel fairy comes with heat you don't want on your person. The wood chips from my planer are free (sort of- I did pay for the wood it comes from.) and they don't have to by thrown away. I also use them in my bee smoker for tending to my bees. Again, good luck in your casting adventures.

P.S If your cast for those other unmentionable type rifles/pistols, One part 50/50 solder added to 9 parts wheel weight lead (clip-on type) will give you a melt very close to Lyman #2 alloy which is the unofficial standard for those unmentionable types.

doggoner
97
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by RobD on January 10, 2026, 05:57:09 AM »
A few questions for you experienced LRB casters...

Do you cast with "pure lead?

As "pure" as possible, which will never ever be 100% pure.  For cast ML balls, it won't matter much.  For other cast projectiles specifically for long distance shooting, particularly those that require a bit more hardness by alloying with tin, slick/bullet composition is important.

Do you cast with a bottom pour or a dipper?

NEVER bottom pour - most of us in BPCR will only ladle via "compression casting".

Do you flux it?
What do you use for flux?

YES and YES - DRY wood dust or candle wax.  Anything wet introduced into a pot of molten lead is asking for trouble.

Do you stir it in and skim from the surface?

YES - stir well and then skim off the dross.

If you bottom pour, is it really necessary to flux, mix and skim?

Yes ... but again, I won't ever  use a bottom pour furnace again.


I am trying to get as pure a lead ball as possible. I suspect that impurities in the lead pot affect the weight and accuracy of the ball.

Sure will ... but in reality it's air or dirty lead that'll be the biggest issue.  Compression casting with a ladle is the way to go, at least for me and most BPCR shooters.

98
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by No Powder on January 10, 2026, 05:48:17 AM »
Gotcha!!! :hairy
99
The Campfire / Re: Uncle Russ, where are you
« Last post by LongWalker on January 10, 2026, 01:07:39 AM »
I think I've seen him post over on the Muzzleloading forum in the past few days, you might try contacting him there.
100
General Interest / Re: FLUXING
« Last post by LongWalker on January 10, 2026, 01:04:25 AM »
From what I'm reading, it doesn't matter what kind of sawdust or shavings you use. Is that correct?
Pretty much.  It has to be DRY, you don't want to risk adding wet sawdust or shavings and getting a visit from the tinsel fairies.

I stick with sawdust from poplar/pine/oak/cherry (but those are the woods I cut the most).  Sticking with the lighter-colored woods makes it easier for me to see if I'm getting woods that I know will mess up my sinuses.  But they all work. 

YMMV, of course.
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