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Author Topic: PRBs in my Fowler..Help?  (Read 1025 times)

Offline mark davidson

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PRBs in my Fowler..Help?
« on: December 06, 2010, 12:55:08 PM »
I just ordered some .690 balls and some patches for my 12ga. fowler.  I have a good bit of experience with my .62 cal. rifled Hawken but NONE with a smoothie.  I would like some suggestions on a good effective load for hunting and some info. on what to expect in accuracy on out to 50 yards or so. I ordered .015 patches. I will likely use a .125 overpowder felt wad just cause that works so well in my .62. How much powder?? (2F) I am thinking about starting with 100 grains. I KNOW I will have to experiment to see what MY gun likes but any help or suggestions you can give on a good starting place or combo that works for you will be appreciated. :-)

Offline pathfinder

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« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2010, 04:03:25 PM »
.690's might be a bit small,if so just double patch. 80grs is a good starting point. why waste powder if ya don't have to. 2-3" at fifty yards should be average. I use 80grs2f,over powder card(.125) fiber wad, thin card on top of the wad, measure and a half of mixed size shot,and another thin card. I suck at wing shooting so
I figure the more B-B's I put out there,the better the chance of hittin' something!
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Offline Sir Michael

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« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2010, 09:11:32 PM »
You need to measure the 12 ga barrel and then subtract .020 or .035 from that dimension and try out balls that size with .010 or .015 patches.  Pathfinder's recommendation for powder sounds like a good place to start.

In the early 19th C a rule of thumb for powder was 1/3 the weight of the ball.  For a .715 ball that would be around 160 gr :roll eyes  

Basically you just need to work up a load for it like any other muzzleloader.  Pick a ball size and patch thickness that feels good when you run it down the barrel.  Then pick a starting point for the powder and move up and/or down from there until you get the smallest group you can.  Adding wads and cards sometimes will help.

However, the subject of this topic says volumes.  A fowler is not really designed to shoot round ball but if you really want to, go for it. :shake
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Offline mark davidson

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« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2010, 09:03:57 AM »
Thanks to all for the info. Now, Sir Michael here is what is likely the dumb question of the week but I am kinda new so here goes...What really is the difference between a fowler and a smoothbore? My gun is a custom build 12 guage full stock with large Siler lock and a 38" octagon to round barrel. I had it made for shooting shot which it does well but I had a rear sight put on it in case I wanted to shoot a round ball. Am I not supposed to shoot a round ball out of this thing? I just figured that working up a round ball load for it would make it more versatile in case I want to shoot a deer with it.

Offline Capt. Jas.

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« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2010, 10:04:31 AM »
Mark you most probably have a cyl. bore barrel which is designed to throw both shot and ball. Many fowling pieces  (that have not been cut down) had the inside of the muzzle relieved like a blunderbuss but on a smaller scale (ex. 12 bore and flaring to 10 or 9 bore).
Most commercially available "fowler" barrels today are much heavier walled than a fowling piece barrel and historically these types were used on fusees and the like to be able to throw both.

That said , there were a boatload of "fowlers" that were used for militia duty and put into service during wars to shoot ball (no patched round balls).


A smoothbore can be a pistol, fowling piece, carbine, blunderbuss, fusee, musket... etc.




Oh... and the trade guns which were the cheapest of cheap fowling type pieces were used with both shot and ball.

Offline Kermit

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« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2010, 11:33:36 AM »
Sounds like you have what's come to be called a "smoothrifle," since you said it has a rear sight.

When I shoot RB in my 20ga 44" fowling piece I just patch the .595 ball snuggly (can't recall the patch thickness off hand) and use the same powder measure as I do for shot. Been solong since I worked up the load that I'm not sure of the amount here either, but I think it's about 75 grains.

I'm not much help, except to say that I didn't find cards and cushions and such like to be that helpful.
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Offline mark davidson

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« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2010, 12:50:20 PM »
As always, thanks for your kind input and patience.  I will work up a load from the starting points you gave me and will experiment with patches and powder till I find something it will shoot as well as it is going to shoot without lands and grooves. Its mostly an experiment but if I find it shoots well then I think it would be fun to whack a deer with a big ole 12guage ball!! :-)

Offline Capt. Jas.

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« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2010, 04:35:13 PM »
I agree with 80gr of 2f as a start point.
You may also want to try shooting a larger ball without the patch. Some group well that way and it's "old timey"

Offline Buzzard

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« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2010, 07:50:45 PM »
I know two guys shooting 12 bores. They both shoot 690rbs with correct  patching and about 90gr-2f. One uses 1/2 of a fiber wad under the ball and the other does not. One gun is a fowler, jug choked, and the other is a CVA sxs, cyl bore. They are both quite satisfied with prb accuracy and have killed several deer out to 60yds. I would expect 4-6" groups at 50yds. As stated earlier, fowlers were structured to be used primarily for "shooting flying". A "smooth bore" is a general term for any gun without rifling. A "smooth rifle" would be a smooth bore gun built with "rifle" architecture, irregardless of a rear sight.
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Offline mark davidson

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« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2010, 09:08:54 AM »
Buzzard, Thanks for the clarification. From what you say, I think I have a "smooth rifle." For some inexperienced reason, I thought the octagon to round barrel was "fowler" architecture. Either way, my toy suits my purpose well with shot and I am just experimenting with PRBs to add a little versatility to the weapon and have a little fun.