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Author Topic: Fowler stocks and cheek pain ???  (Read 673 times)

Offline Skychief

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Fowler stocks and cheek pain ???
« on: February 19, 2012, 07:48:20 PM »
Just shot my new-to-me "Tulle" styled fowler with it's slight roman-nosed stock.   Working up a turkey load, my cheek under my cheekbone took a real beating!

What fowler "schools" are know to be more "cheek friendly"?

I have shot 900 loads out of my T/C New Englander (12 gauge) and never had my cheek bit.

Wanting a more traditional smoothbore, I picked up the "Tulle".

Please fire away with any suggestions or insight!

Best regards, Skychief.

Offline pathfinder

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Re: Fowler stocks and cheek pain ???
« Reply #1 on: February 19, 2012, 09:34:25 PM »
Taller front sight to show more barrel usually solves this issue. No rear sight make sight picture all important.
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Offline biliff

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Re: Fowler stocks and cheek pain ???
« Reply #2 on: February 19, 2012, 09:39:22 PM »
FWIW, After years of shooting skeet with a hard cheek/stock weld on a modern parallel comb skeet gun, I had to unlearn and go to a much more upright, heads up shooting style with my NSW Early English trade gun. Just the nature of the stock configuration.

The closer you can get to a parallel comb and minimum drop the less likely you are to get bit.
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Offline Capt. Jas.

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Re: Fowler stocks and cheek pain ???
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2012, 08:20:38 AM »
I believe good cheekbone to comb contact to be a good thing as well. I add a pad to guns that are not made for me so as to keep from floating above it. Upright is OK but upright with no contact as aforementioned is not OK.
Ditto the parallel comb and minimum drop from bore line also.

Offline trg

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Re: Fowler stocks and cheek pain ???
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2012, 05:38:51 PM »
I mentioned this on another forum about the same topic, but one can make adjustments when building a gun to make the stock fit the cheek/eye so all comes together as needed on most stocks there is enough wood to get what one needs I suspect. One has to shoot the gun while in the white and one can determine front sight location at this time as well. After the fact it might be possible to redo the comb for a better fit and refinish the stock. The firts time I "tried" my fusil I had to push down hard to get the pictgure I wanted ( top of tang and front sight visable, no barrel) and it smacked me when holding this way, so I worked the wood till I got a nice picture of the top of the tang and front sight while  resting but not pushing my face down on the stock and when I opened my eyes the picture was as wanted, this position come automaticaly now when I shoulder the gun this did remove some of the "Roman Nose" out of the stock but is still looks  like a French cows foot fusil. I would think this possible with most precarves but maybe i just got lucky as it was the 2nd or 3rd gun  I had done and with help on some parts of the build. Sonme true gun builders may have more to add about "fitting a gun to ones needs" I am more of a novice gun stocker at best.