heating and bending a hammer spring?

[rollingb]

I have several parts, plates , springs etc for those. I will send you what evr part you need if I have it,no charge

Ridjrunr,... if you have enough parts to fix Ted up, and you still have a good mainspring left over,... I'll buy it,    (a buddy of mine is looking for one for his CVA flintlock)

[ridjrunr]

I have a couple springs. Can anyone tell me a way to test a spring without using it in the rifle? Like just a loose spring test. I think I have two weak springs mixed in with all the other cva lock stuff all in a box.

rollingb, I'd be happy to help out.

L&R is the way to go if you REALLY like the rifle.

[gunmaker]

i meant to add that as well, is plate dead flat....Tom

[rollingb]

I have a couple springs. Can anyone tell me a way to test a spring without using it in the rifle?

Ya got me there ridjrunr,... I have no idea how to test a spring "out of the rifle".  

[tedmn]

i meant to add that as well, is plate dead flat....Tom

No the plate is not flat along it's entire length. I do believe that it is warped at the spring end.  The other end appears to be flat cuz all parts lay nice and flat against the plate.

Soooooo any ideas to the madness of flattening the plate?  I'm open to any and all suggestions.

 

[rollingb]

i meant to add that as well, is plate dead flat....Tom

No the plate is not flat along it's entire length. I do believe that it is warped at the spring end.  The other end appears to be flat cuz all parts lay nice and flat against the plate.

Soooooo any ideas to the madness of flattening the plate?  I'm open to any and all suggestions.

  :rt th

[gunmaker]

Lay it on a FLAT hard surface & whack it with a soft hammer. Use a straight edge to chk it. Polish inside of plate with a wide flat diamond stone.  To test mainsprings, put it in a bench vice with leather pads.  GENTLY close vice a little & then open it .  Spg should stay tight to vice in & out. A small Siler mainspring will fit that lock & give it some real snap, need to drill a new hole for spg stud tho....Tom

[huntinguy]

Hmmm, coffee is kicking in...  :horse

[tedmn]

Hmmm, coffee is kicking in...  :horse

Huntinguy has a very good point.  I think what I'm going to check is to remove all the part of the lock, check the hammer spring for uneven wear spots, then install the hammer spring without anything binding or pushing on it to see if it sits flush.  

I'll also take a closer look at slowly straightening the plate.  

BUT need to build up a palm rest for my .22 target rifle (NOT a traditional muzzle loading gun BTW) because I need that on Friday for a match....because I'm a jack of all guns, master of none you know!!!!
 

[rollingb]

:rt th

[tedmn]

Okay..update.  I took a look at the end of the spring where it engages the tumbler(?). Well it wasn't straight at all, so I carefully made the end nice and flush.  Well for one thing the trigger pull went down to maybe 3 gorilla now!  The spring still isn't straight but it appears that when the lock is installed on the pistol and the action screws are put through and tightened down, it must pull the lock against the wood and push the hammer spring flush lime it should be.  Who woulda thunk it...

[rollingb]

:rt th

As far as the heavy trigger pull,... does the trigger pivot on a "pin" through the stock, or is it mounted on a trigger plate?

If the trigger "fulcrum" is 1/2 inch or more (the distance from where the sear bar contacts the trigger bar),... it might be possible to "re-drill and re-pin"  the trigger further back to lighten the trigger pull,... that is,... "if" the trigger is suspended from a pin through the wood.
You'll just have to "study" the geometry of the trigger to see if it allows for any sort of modification to increase leverage on the lock's sear bar.