trigger problems

[Flinchlock]

I had posted this on the TMLA FB group and Rob said to post it here for an answer... Otay. Still going to ml gun shop tomorrow.

Set trigger question. On one of my rifles (Dixie Tennessee mountain rifle), the front trigger is crazy light when set. I've tried adjusting it out (to the point the screw is loose) and it's still crazy light... I have two of these guns. The other one, the trigger works fine.

Could it be the one needs to be inletted MORE? I think both were kits.

I'm afraid that the screw's going to fall out. It's way further out than the other.
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Last night after work:
Okay, I pulled the triggers and looked. Looks kinda like the notch might be messed up or trigger sear not in right, but a stronger spring under the front trigger would also, maybe, help.

Better though, after playing with, I put the damned thing back together and now... You set it, touch front and it clacks inside and hammer doesn't fall, then if you reset triggers, it will go. Wtf?

I wonder if some monkeyf*cker changed the triggers to be like old ones whereas it's not a double set. I've read of people doing things like that... That would honk me off.
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This morning thoughts:

And, it surely does NOT do anything unless you set the rear trigger. Ugh.

[RobD]

you are, to a fair degree, experiencing the difference between cheap DSTs (double set triggers) (cheap = offshore) and really good double set triggers (good = onshore - davis, L&R, chambers, kibler, roller, etc).

IF you have messed with it a bit and can't figure it out, your course of action is correct - get it to a Competent gunsmith who understands the trad muzzleloader DST.  there are Many things that can go wrong with DSTs.   AND, there is a relationship between the cock sear and the DST sear that must be properly set.  this *may* also hafta do with how the DST was installed (meaning, how it was inlet into the stock with relation to the lock).  therefore, a gunsmith needs the whole gun and not just the DST itself.

good luck and please post back with the results.

i was a firm believer in DSTs for trad muzzleloader rifles but have since seen the better effectiveness of a simple, well built and installed single trigger.  this is what's on the kibler colonial .54 rifle kit that's almost finished.  DSTs are Mandadory for bpcr cartridges competition guns, however!

[Flinchlock]

The more research I do, the more I think some Billy-Bob changed them too be a single set. There's a post about this on the 'net. People do the dumbest things. Ugh.

[Ohio Joe]

Flintchlock, I make my own trigger and trigger plate's as I never found (as Rob calls them "offshore" double set triggers to be any good. I have found in making my own triggers if you slant the blade (Lever) that engages the Sear - downward towards the rear of the rifle - you can get as lite of release as you are comfortable with. You can even install a small set screw through the trigger plate to push the "slanted" Lever upwards to get your desired poundage release.

I know this doesn't help you with the setup you have now, and to be quite honest - those I've talked to about these double-set triggers (regardless if they are off or on shore made) - folks have a hell of a time with them getting them installed correctly.  You are not alone with this problem.

Hope some of this helps. 

[prairie dog]

You need a knowledgeable person to look it over.  I could not begin to diagnose your problem without hands on it.  It could be a simple adjustment or a bungled up sear to tumbler relationship.  Cant tell without seeing it. 

[blackpowderbill]

I spent close to 5 hours working on an old Russ Hamm lock and triggers last year.  The old timer I did the work for had built the rifle decades ago. It needed a good going over.

 I found several things out of wack and loose incorrect screw. Just enough of a mixture to keep the lock from holding at full cock.

  One problem was the stock wrist was so thin you had to set the triggers prior to going to full cock. I really don't know how he shot the gun , it hadn't been fired in at least 20 years; but the front trigger plate had been filed cockeyed.
I leveled out the top of the plate, added a little more bend on the sear arm then file it nice and clean.
 Everything that was filed was like who ever done the work was in a hurry. All the file work was at an angle like it was never turned around in the vise.

 Naturally when you start a project like this it's file a little then check fit/function 50 times. 

I got it to hold nice and hard, let off was great!

Returned the rifle , explained what I had done.  I said you have to set the trigger prior to going to full cock. I'm sure it was like this prior to me working on it.  Damn if he didn't call me back a day later stating it would not hold!   I asked, did ya set the trigger first? Ah no, I forgot. Poor old timer he nice nuff guy?

 I worked on 3 ML'res and one he claims he can't find? It was a match to the rifle. I told him he never gave me a 54 pistol it was a 45. I even corrected him when it was handed to me for the first time.   

 So I started a new policy to which I'm holding 90% true on. You want you XYZ worked on by me. You have to drop it off at the LGS where it is tagged and work to be performed noted. When I go in I look XYZ and give my opinion on repairs needed prior to disassembly.


  Over tightening of the lock place screws is another deal that will jam a lock up.

Most of the time I find lack of lubrication,dirt, loose bridal screws to be the problem.

 As stated earlier.
Without having the lock in my hands it is hard to tell what the problem is. 

Another really big issue is guys can't give a good description of their problem because they don't know. Asking questions helps, but when 50 people on facebook chime in and 45 of them are giving bad/sideways don't understand themselves kind of advice, you can only hope that person listens to you.

 R,
BPB

[Flinchlock]

Well Bill, I hear ya. I took out inta Fort Chambers. I know Jim will fix it up. I just hope it's simple stuff and some inbred didn't truly modify it work like the old kind where ya had to set it first. I want it like it was made. I like that style: double set, double phase, I think it's called.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Winter Hawk]

You might call R.E. Davis Co. and ask if they have a trigger assembly which would work. 

http://www.redaviscompany.com/triggers.html
http://www.redaviscompany.com/1007.html

The second link is for their replacement trigger for T-C.  Call them up, they might even have one to fit your Dixie rifle.

~Kees~

[Flinchlock]

So, rifle is fixed. Crappo triggers, but he has fixed it. Then when putting back together, it wouldn't. Turns out, besides working on rear trigger, the trigger guard was too close and the trigger hit it and didn't set properly. He had to bend it some. Kind of gives credence to my belief that it was a kit.

If you live near here, Fort Chambers black powder store in Chambersburg, Pa is great and you cannot go wrong.

[blackpowderbill]

Good you found a smith to repair it for you. I have one flintlock that has a single set trigger in it. I don't shoot it as much as the others with Dbl sets. I have to tell myself to push forward ,(turn it on); before engaging target. LOL