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Author Topic: PC brass tacks  (Read 1224 times)

Offline Iktomi

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PC brass tacks
« on: February 13, 2009, 10:45:48 AM »
I plan on using brass tacks as a decoration on my GPR. TOTW sells 3 types, a cone headed tack, and a low and high domed tack. Is there a style that is appropriate to the 1840's, or is it simply a matter of personal preference?
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« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2009, 12:54:34 PM »
If you go with the low dome you cant go wrong,these tacks have hardened steel wire shanks, if your looking for all brass check out the trunk shoppe? I think thats how they spell shop.
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Offline jtwodogs

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« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2009, 03:29:26 PM »
Just a note form a pure novice, I saw a GPR that had worn some tacks for a few years, some were broke off in the stock, some shanks had been pulled some had not.
Could have been what I consider one of the ugliest accoutrement's I have ever seen.
I know to each his own,  but how ugly this stock had become. Just make sure you want it before you go through with it.
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Offline tg

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« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2009, 04:31:48 PM »
I am certain you are aware of the need of pilot holes when applying tacks to gunstocks but thought I would mention it.Tacks can add to a gun and it can be a fun project, I would use caution where you put them if you have whiskers, shaving is a lot less painfull


Offline jbullard1

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« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2009, 04:57:43 PM »
I add a 1/4" brass tack for each successful hunt for deer and each shoot won  :shake
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Offline Three Hawks

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« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2009, 05:25:33 PM »
Drilling a pilot hole is NECESSARY ! !   Another thing that's necessary is measuring the length of the tack, and where, EEZAKLY, the point will end up.  

Until you've nailed your ramrod in place you don't fully realize the importance of this.

Slightly embarassed ol'

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Offline jbullard1

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« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2009, 06:10:09 PM »
Quote from: "Three Hawks"
Drilling a pilot hole is NECESSARY ! !   Another thing that's necessary is measuring the length of the tack, and where, EEZAKLY, the point will end up.  

Until you've nailed your ramrod in place you don't fully realize the importance of this.

Slightly embarassed ol'

Three Hawks

Very Good Info there Hawk  :shake
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Offline Uncle Russ

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« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2009, 07:27:27 PM »
I have seen this done to where it was very nice, extremely pleasing to the eye, and actually added to the appearance of the rifle.

I have also seen it done where it made it the rifle look a bit "trashed out", if you know what I mean.

I've never done this, but if I were to do it, I would make sure the measurement between tacks was absolute dead nuts on, and I would try hard not to put too many tacks on the gun, but who says when it's too many??? :shock: .....
As simple as this may seem, to me, it's the two big things that really separates the wheat from the chafe on this project....that and listening to what Three Hawks had to say.

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Offline tg

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« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2009, 07:28:50 PM »
I have shortened the shanks on some tacks where the wood depth was marginal I just use sidecutters at an angle to snip them back, I like to make a pattern and check the layout so everything is as it should be before any holes are driled or tacks are set.

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« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2009, 08:49:12 PM »
Quote from: "tg"
I am certain you are aware of the need of pilot holes when applying tacks to gunstocks but thought I would mention it.Tacks can add to a gun and it can be a fun project, I would use caution where you put them if you have whiskers, shaving is a lot less painfull

Well, this looks pretty decent...
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Offline Iktomi

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« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2009, 09:25:25 PM »
Thanks for the replies. I'm up to speed on pilot holes and depth of tack shank, I'm not worried about applying them. I'm more concerned about the correct period type of tack.
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Offline cb

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« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2009, 10:37:14 PM »
Quote
I'm more concerned about the correct period type of tack.
To be completely period correct for pre-1870's (when the steel shanks first came on the market based on current documentation) than get the solid brass square tacks from http://www.trunkshoppe.com
Otherwise the solid head brass ones from Crazy Crow and other vendors - low domes are the earlier style with the 5/16" being closest to the most commonly used size in the past

If you do use the Trunk Shop tacks be aware that they are quite soft and the final set needs to be done with a domed setter - otherwise the head  will flatten out.......they are not cheap but are the only current source for this type that I have found. 7 or 8 mm is closest to the most commonly used size

FWIW - I use about 5-6,000 tacks a year decorating work.....on the steel shank tacks - to keep from splitting the wood clip the sharp point off so that it's flat tipped or close to it - an old cabinet maker's trick......
Chuck Burrows aka Grey Wolf

Offline jtwodogs

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Brass tacks
« Reply #12 on: February 14, 2009, 10:09:39 AM »
Quote from: "tg"
I am certain you are aware of the need of pilot holes when applying tacks to gunstocks but thought I would mention it.Tacks can add to a gun and it can be a fun project, I would use caution where you put them if you have whiskers, shaving is a lot less painfull


Yes that look is exceptional, that is why I prefaced my comment with the fact that I am a novice and have not seen many, the one that I did see looked terrible I doubt whomever had taken time to drill or lay out much of a pattern they just started hammering tacks in. The above pics looks very tastefully done.
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Offline swampman

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« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2009, 09:57:27 PM »
"In America, freedom and justice have always come from the ballot box, the jury box, and when that fails, the cartridge box."

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