Lyman rebuild

[Bigsmoke]

Path,
Must have been fantasizing about it.
Never seen one myself.
John

[shootrj2003]

I can honestly say ,no shop of mine has beenoopoopppppppppp "uncluttered"so for work of this nature I go to the living room ,this sometimes incurs the wrath of the missus but enables me to save money on small parts,I have to add it up and see if it 's worth it.
The set trigger thing?I guess it depends on The immediate circumstances,but if I have a three lbs trigger I  can use it to good effect and if a long shot presents itself

[shootrj2003]

I made the tool and after some adjustments and polishing up On the tool I took the lock apart,as to making it 's unset pull less ,I had no luck,the only way I can see to do that is to install a lighter main spring or remove a coil or two and maybe a lighter spring in the sear plunger,as to making it better,I polished the sear and sear notch with my sear stone and cleaned it ,but it was like new ,so not dirty,I also polished the back of the sear tumbler where it might rub the lock plate.other than that,where the shaft of the tumbler goes through the lock plate the hole was 0.315 and the shaft was 0.308 and I don't know if tightening that .007  up might help(it seemed sloppy to me without the bridle on and no spring tension) but that would require welding and redrilling or a bushing .that's not beyond doing but I don't know if it would improve anything.right now the set trigger breaks at a bit over 1 1/2 lbs but unset is still off my trigger scale probably 6-8lbs.
I might order an extra set of springs and the play around and cot a coil or so off.
 Bigsmoke ,the tool worked great after some tweaking!

[Captchee]

Personally I wouldn’t mess with the main spring  doing so may very well create issues you have not thought of .
 Case in point . Do you realize that the lock not only serves as a  way to set of the cap , but it also serves a pressure  valve of sorts ?.
See if you lighten the main spring to much , the  pressure that  is blown out of the nipple  can then give you blow back of the hammer . Which if to great will  twist it right off the lock .
 How hard you have to pull a double set has  exactly 0 to do with the lock  .
 When you pull the trigger to set it , its still not touching the lock . IE the  rear trigger does not engage the lock tell it trips .
  What happens is when you  pull the rear trigger , the trigger bar is pulled down .it then engages a notch in the front trigger and is kept engaged by the trigger main spring . When you pull the front trigger , that trigger bar moves up . When it reaches a given angle the rear trigger slips free .  The pressure that’s provided by the trigger main spring  slaps the  rear trigger up , hitting the sear with just enough force to  slip it from the  tumbler .  In doing so , it does not hold the sear  away from the tumbler . This is why the need for a fly OR a  double set that  inlet to a depth where the trigger main spring  will hold the sear away from the lock  prior to being compressed . IE it will not allow the lock to be  cocked  until the rear trigger is set .
 Basically like a target type double set

 Now with a hunting double set , the two trigger bars over lap . IE the rear trigger bar , does not engage a notch in the front of the front trigger bar . It engages a notch in the side of the front trigger bar .
 What this allows a person to do , is then use the front trigger just like a single trigger . IE as you pull the front trigger , the bar comes up and contacts the sear..
 How much pull it takes for the trigger to trip the lock  is then determined by the angle  of contact  and the distance of leverage  IE the distance  from the pivot point to the sear  and the distance from the pivot point to  your finger .
 This all then reacts to the amount of negative angle and depth of the full cock notch . IE   the amount of pressure it take to  force the  sear to over come the main spring and cock the lock  back enough for the sear to slip the full cock notch . In other words you can have a very light main spring and still have just as heavy as trigger pull as with a heavy main spring .
Why ?, because the main spring has 0 to do with  the trigger pull .

Lyman some years ago was having complains about their rifles going off  un expectedly . What was happening is people were  adjusting the set trigger to light “yes I said to light “
 So they went to a shorter adjustment screw that would not allow the  trigger to be adjusted to the point  where  light pressure  would slip the rear trigger from the  front trigger notch .

 Now some folks will tell you that  this adjustment does not adjust the weight of the front trigger pull. That it only adjust the amount of travel  the front trigger will make before it trips .
 This is partially true  and would be completely true if the adjustment screw did not adjust the angle  o f the notch  at the same time it adjusts the depth of engagement.

 Remember the principle that an object in motion wants to stay in motion . Well that whats happening  even though your not pulling on the trigger .
 See  once set the trigger main spring holds force  against the  front trigger notch  as you increase the angle  that the force is being applied against the main spring  naturally wants to force the resisting force up   . Thus less force is needed  to help  it move an object out of the way . Again principles of leverage  are applied . This gets amplified by the shorter distance of travel.

 Now if your having issues with   the set trigger  being to heavy , then what you do is  reduce the strength of the  trigger main spring .  To do that you simply back out the screw that holds it onto the trigger plate . Doing so reduces the amount of downward force being applied to the rear trigger .
 But remember this adjustment can also be taken to far and thus not give the rear trigger enough energy when set , to pop the sear from the full cock .

[shootrj2003]

Captchee, thanks for the info,I actually was aware of the pressure valve effect of the main spring in cap locks,and before doing any work I usually,not always,sadly,do my homework but mostly with firearms I do,(i once put Coleman fuel in my Sportster)and I usually wait to hear from those with more experience,among them ,you,thanks,I had my suspicions about the sear plunger spring so I ordered one each mainspring and sear plunger spring for experimental use,however,I had a conversation with LRB at American longrifles and he confirmed to me try lightening the sear plunger spring .the lock is a flintlock GPR  by the way of information.
 Dude,that is some great info there but I'll have to read it a few times thru to get it clear in my head,the good thing my skull is thick and once it's in nothing gets out,thank you for imparting that.
   Be aware I do know too light,I learned that from a Mauser.

[Captchee]

the sear plunger spring isnt going to do much  for you . its not that strong to begin with and only applies enough resistance to cause the sear to push into the notchs .
 i read his post over there .  you need to take note of the notch . thats where your issue is .
  once again , its all about geomitry .  if a single trigger is done correctly  it will also be very light .