Excellent explanations on ball/patch and priming. Just to side with those who have already posted this I'll go over it again from my perspective. Generally the least amount of prime that works well is preferable; I try for an average of about 2 grains of 4F for most locks and from 4 to 6 grains in locks with huge pans. In actuality while out in the bush I just dump in prime and shoot. My hunting primer flask is a cute affair made from a deer's leg bone; no measuring nozzle.
At the range I use a "springy thingy" that throws about 2 to 3 grains. And ALL vent holes are drilled to 1/16" and no more. Ignition is perfect. If you prefer "wet" lubes, as I do, the prb can be seated down on the powder with no problems in most cases. I frequently use some sort of op wad and that assures NO contaminated powder. The wet patch, however, should never be drippy or sloppy, just good and wet.
I like snug, not "tight" prb fit. It has to be able to be safely seated with the wood underbarrel rod or it's too tight for me. In my .50, for instance, I shoot a .590" ball with a .024" patch lubed with Hoppes. That particular has round bottom grooves but the load does just as well in other caliber guns with square rifling. In my smoothbore I can't go as tight. A .600" ball and .015" flannel patch is about as snug as I can get without pounding to seat. Since I prefer shooting WW ball (.606") a patch of any kind is problematic. Sometimes a .010" patch works with this larger ball but it depends on the type patch. It is tight and marginally seated with a wood rod. So often I shoot WW ball as a bare ball. It does surprisingly well in the accuracy department. Any gun will keep a relatively clean bore with a good, snug prb especially if a "wet" lube is used. It wipes the bore going down and leaves just one shots worth of fouling when fired. At the range I seldom wipe before packing up to go home. Tighter combos also give velocity increases and often better accuracy. While black powder will not draw moisture from the air (non-hygroscopic) the bp fouling definitely will (hygroscopic). It's the fouling trace in the pan and not the prime that is responsible for any pan slurry. If it is wet enough everything gets a little damp including clothing. There is absolutely nothing wrong nor is there any downside with wiping often. I only wipe when I feel it is necessary (rare). In the woods my first load of the day, regardless of which gun, is lubed with Natural Lube 1000. If I don't fire that day it will not rust or dry out and be ready to use the next. If fired Hoppes is used from there on out.
Well, I've managed to get on my own nerves so I'll quit. This is just stuff I learned the hard way over the decades.
Topic: A little help, please! (Read 1622 times)