Traditional stock finishing

[PRB3]

Hello everyone, hope all is well,
I'm just getting back into kit building  and had a question. I heard that traditionally stain was not applied to inletted areas of the stock, such as under the buttplate, barrel channel, lock mortis. Left me wondering what was ? Was the bare wood left as such or was a sealant applied? My thought is to apply the sealant without stain to have a traditional look but still protect the stock. Does this sound right? Any input would be appreciated, thanks everyone.

[Ohio Joe]

Two schools of thought on this IMHO;

1. Stain only exterior...

2. Stain inside & out...

I have always practiced "Staining inside & out" ( 2 to 3 coats outside (depending on the finish I'm getting,,, and 1 coat on the inside where the wood is seldom or never seen... I have never had any problems... Just my personal opinion...

Just because our ancestors only stained "exterior" that we know of, doesn't mean today's builder can't stain areas that will never, or seldom be seen...

So, again IMHO, it's up to you. 

added note;

I want to mention one other thing as I didn't above , but I'll go back and edit my previous post;

I do use "Tru-Oil" after the final exterior staining, but never on the interior area's...

[PRB3]

Thanks Ohio Joe, I appreciate it, I will probably end up staining and sealing inside and out, seems better to protect the stock, thanks again!

[Ohio Joe]

Thanks Ohio Joe, I appreciate it, I will probably end up staining and sealing inside and out, seems better to protect the stock, thanks again!

You are welcome.

I want to mention one other thing as I didn't above , but I'll go back and edit my previous post;

I do use "Tru-Oil" after the final exterior staining, but never on the interior area's...   

[Hank in WV]

I stain and oil inside and out. I'm not using aqua fortis so I don't actually have to worry about any continuing rust. As an aside, I've never had any luck with my AF experiments. I tried making my own and the practice pieces always came out muddy looking. Very disappointing.

[PRB3]

Thanks Hank, thanks again Ohio Joe
I agree, I think I will just stick with LMF, inside and out. Its nice to get opinions of others, good to be back on the forum!

[RobD]

from my readings on the matter, the mortises and inlet areas were mostly left neked, no stain, no finish.

however, i stain Everything, and prefer aqua fortis.  after the staining, i wick in quality water thin CYA to the lock mortise and barrel channel wood grain - this seals and hardens it all, particularly the somewhat delicate areas surrounding the lock.  i've pretty much settled on tru-oil as my finish of choice.

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[PRB3]

RobD,
That's a nice finish on that rifle, its AF and Tru-oil?
I appreciate the advice, I will try a  thinner layer of finish on the inlets, btw that a Kibler kit? I ask because that's what I'm working on and the picture looks familiar
Thanks again!

[RobD]

RobD,
That's a nice finish on that rifle, its AF and Tru-oil?

Yes.

I appreciate the advice, I will try a  thinner layer of finish on the inlets,

I think it's a good practice to protect the wood that's absolutely going to experience black powder residue and other atrocities.  The prime candidate is the lock area, that will get a yeoman's share of the crud, along with the extreme blast of pan ignition, and resulting dribbles and sprays of water or water soluble oil and water during any fouling control and clean up.  The best way to do that is to wick in water thing quality CYA (hobby shop grade only) to the wood grain.  At the same time, the CYA will harden delicate wood routs within that lock mortise.  Doing the same CYA wicking in to the barrel channel is just good insurance against warping that wood from any overflow of cleaning fluids dumped down the tube.  FWIW, I use Hot Stuff thin CYA, but any Quality hobby shop brand CYA (CYAnoacrylate) will do just fine .

btw that a Kibler kit? I ask because that's what I'm working on and the picture looks familiar

Yes, the Colonial.  Love the kit and the gun is now my number one since I sold off all my others and it's the only trad muzzy I own 

Thanks again!

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[ridjrunr]

On the halfstock Im working on now, I will use LMF permalyn sealer and do it inside and out but no stain inside except in barrel channel where I tested my stain.  My reasoning is that it will help prevent water from soaking into areas of wood inside the stock. Seems I always leak a little when cleaning.

[RobD]

On the halfstock Im working on now, I will use LMF permalyn sealer and do it inside and out but no stain inside except in barrel channel where I tested my stain.  My reasoning is that it will help prevent water from soaking into areas of wood inside the stock. Seems I always leak a little when cleaning.

this is EXACTLY why i do the CYA grain wick-in for the lock mortise and barrel channel.  in doing so, there wil be NO water, oil, residue mitigation to those wood areas, probably forever.  i have proofed this with more than a few flintlocks for more than two decades.  i strongly urge you to consider doing the CYA treatment to those areas.

[ridjrunr]

Rob, I did CA in the majority of the lock inlet,escusions inlets and the counterbore for the lock screw washer. At 10 tonight I finally was able to get my first application of the permalyn wood sealer and will do 2-3 more tomarrow. Very pleasantly surprised with the color I got with the vinegroon stain I have been playing with. From this  [ Invalid Attachment ]  to this [ Invalid Attachment ]

[RobD]

looking real good, dan! 

[PRB3]

Thanks again to everyone who replied. Its great to be back on the forum and have access to the wealth of knowledge and experience of the members!