Gun oil?

[Kermit]

Was reading something about camellia oil, and it was saying that it is the next best thing to sperm whale oil. Nice and light, won't stain wood, etc. Apparently used on samauri swords and other blades and tools by the Japanese to prevent rusting in their humid climate. So I checked it out here:

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product. ... t_id=13099

This is durned near a half-gallon, so about a lifetime supply--depending on your stage of life. Smaller sizes are available--and from other sources on the web. Some have it in spray containers.

Anyone ever try it? If it's in the same camp as whale oil and isn't petroleum based, it might be worth a try. Rust prevention--okay. Lock lubricating? Patch lube?

I'm also looking at it for woodworking tools where I don't want to be staining any items I'm working on.

[Three Hawks]

I see no reason not to use it other than the expense.   I seriously doubt that it was at all common on the American frontier.  

As I have no Samurai swords to worry about, I'll likely stay with 3 in 1 oil as a general lubricant.  If you want a cheap lubricant which won't  go bad on you, try Dexron III ATF.   A quart is a couple bucks and lasts decades.  In 1961 I bought a DCM M1 Carbine for $20.  I bought a sling and oiler for it a few weeks later.  On my crazy uncle's (WWII Marine vet, Pac. Theater, later a USMC DI) recommendation, I put some Dexron III ATF in the oiler to oil my carbine with.   The oiler is still half full.

Real sperm oil will clear out the house.  It bloody well reeks.

Your mileage, may vary.

Three Hawks

[Uncle Russ]

I've been writing this for over five / six years now, but I think I could say it one more time.........
Several years back I made over a gallon of  Ed's Red, and that stuff turns out to be the best stuff I have ever used on all my guns, both modern and muzzleloaders.
I added a Lb. of Anhydrous Lanolin and it works absolutely wonderful as a patch lube....very close to the original LeHigh Valley Lube recipe, or so I'm told by those who know of such things!

I do remember back when I first made this, and I had to buy everything from scratch to put it together, the cost was about $30.00.... the Anhydrous Lanolin was almost half the cost of everything else.
I remember thinking at the time that this is really expensive!

Looking back now I still think the initial cost was a bit spendy, but overall it is relatively cheap, even after my friends have carried away far more than half of it, I still think it's cheap stuff because it goes so far!

Link to Ed's Red http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm

I am a big believer in Dextron ATF.
I know a bunch of guys down in Texas and New Mexico that only use  plain, straight, Dextron ATF as their "go-to" lube for everything when it comes to muzzleloading....and they've been doing it since Sperm Oil became unavailable.

I suspect "3-in-1" Oil is the oil I have used most in my life, and for a over the counter, do it all, really inexpensive oil, it is still hard to beat.

Uncle Russ...

[Loyalist Dave]

AAAAAAH!

I suspect "3-in-1" Oil is the oil I have used most in my life, and for a over the counter, do it all, really inexpensive oil, it is still hard to beat.

Folks, 3-in-1 oil is NOT gun oil.  How do I know this?  Ah well having had to clean modern firearms that were treated with the stuff then stored for several years (one was stored twenty) I can tell you first hand, it will shellac.  It will goop up, and if used on working parts will be a devil of a time getting the crud out.

A vintage Colt detective special was well preserved when it came into the shop one day.  It had been cleaned, well oiled, and wrapped in an oily rag before it was lovingly stored away.  Twenty years later the owners widow brought the gun into the shop where I worked.  The rag was like plastic, and the weapon could not be opened (but it wasn't rusty).  After removal of the rag and the grips, the entire handgun was placed in solvent for 10 hours.  When removed, brown sludge dripped from the gun, and it could be opened to get to the working parts.  2 Hours later, and proper gun oil applied, it worked like it just came out of the box.  I have seen guns stored a mere 24 months with 3-in-1 goop messing up the working parts.  WD-40 is worse, and I have seen it goop up in less than 12 months.    Again from actual experience.  Both work fine for keeping away surface rust, but internal parts, NOPE.  

I like one basic solution for many problems.  I'd use Ballistol if you must use a synthetic.

LD

[Kermit]

Most useful info! I'd been told, but not by muzzleloaders, that ATF was developed by trying to make a product as close to sperm whale oil as possible. I'll be trying some of these ideas/recipes. Thanks!

ThreeHawks--in your time with boatbuilding/repair/maintenance, what was your preferred tool preservative?

[Uncle Russ]

Loyalist Dave, as a Certified Gunsmith, graduate of Colorado School of Trades, and later on an Instructor and Field Rep at that same school, I can say with some confidence that I feel strongly that you are wrong with your thoughts on 3-in-1 oil.

You are dead on about WD-40,  but 3-in-1 dates back over 120 years and is still the preferred oil / lube at many of our Gunsmithing schools.

It is my impression that the sludge / crud that was experienced from the gun you mentioned above came from 3-in-1 doing it's job on a gun that already had WD-40 on it....3-in-1 was indeed the very first to combine Spindle Oil with Citronella Oil to provide the first real C.L.P. (Clean, Lube, Protect) type oil for the sportsman.

It's use on fine machinery, to include the delicate moving parts of everything from Firearms to Sewing Machines, is recognized the world over.....

Just my thoughts.........Uncle Russ

[cb]

a product as close to sperm whale oil as possible

if you want a VERY close product try jojoba -

Laboratory and simulated in-use lubricant tests were performed on sulfurized jojoba oil and on reference sulfurized sperm whale oil. Data from these comprehensive tests indicated sulfurized jojoba oil prepared from heat-treated filtered oil to be comparable or superior to sulfurized sperm whale oil as an extreme-pressure additive for motor oils, gear lubricants, and automotive transmission fluids.

http://www.springerlink.com/content/c117x885q38q3l42/

[Three Hawks]

Most useful info! I'd been told, but not by muzzleloaders, that ATF was developed by trying to make a product as close to sperm whale oil as possible. I'll be trying some of these ideas/recipes. Thanks!

ThreeHawks--in your time with boatbuilding/repair/maintenance, what was your preferred tool preservative?

My tools never laid around long enough to require preserving.  I was always careful never to put 'em away wet, and when they did need to be wiped down or lubed it was with 3 in 1 oil.   I have tools I bought new which are in as good working condition as they were forty and more years ago.   I also have tools I bought used that are in better condition now than they were when I got 'em.

The best preservative is to keep things dry.  The same with my guns.  All are kept dry and used as frequently as possible.    Good ol' 3in1 was not and is not intended as a preservative.  If you wish to put something made of iron and steel into long term storage, there is a very good product formulated specifically for that purpose.

It is called "Cosmoline".   If applied according to manufacturer's recommendation,  a firearm or machine part properly preserved with cosmoline will remain in  perfect condition for hundreds of years.

Automatic transmission fluid was first synthesized in WWII for the transmissions in Sherman Tanks.   They had automatic transmissions that originally used sperm oil as a fluid.  Sperm oil supplies were totally inadequate, so a substitute was needed.  VOILA !!  Dexron III !!!  Automatic transmission fluid. Synthetic sperm oil.   Heat resistant, non foaming,  excellent lubrication properties,  stays put, (but it is not a preservative).

Three Hawks

[jbullard1]

I use Dexron III as well as Chevron/Dexron MD3 (for the Allison 6 speed tranny) just didn't want to bring it up.
A great lube/cleaner or whatever, drill lube and to me it is FREE
Its hard to beat FREE

[bluelake]

What about Rem Oil? http://www.remington.com/products/accessories/gun_care/oils_&_lubricants.asp

[pathfinder]

to me it is FREE
Its hard to beat FREE[/quote]

Anything free is worth saving up for!(Jeff Daniels Escanaba in Da Moonlight)

[snake eyes]

What about Rem Oil? http://www.remington.com/products/accessories/gun_care/oils_&_lubricants.asp

  Thanks,for bringing it up. For a rust  free surface it is all I use.
Works for me!

[No Rod]

to me it is FREE
Its hard to beat FREE

Anything free is worth saving up for!(Jeff Daniels Escanaba in Da Moonlight)[/quote]

holy wah! lol

Jon

[Stryker]

I've been writing this for over five / six years now, but I think I could say it one more time.........
Several years back I made over a gallon of  Ed's Red, and that stuff turns out to be the best stuff I have ever used on all my guns, both modern and muzzleloaders.

I'll second that Russ!

[mossie]

I use Rem Oil or Gun Foil for my gun oils. I never have problems with rust or any buildup problems. I use Crisco for patch lube.