Jacob Dickert Build Progress

[4-Liberty]

Well folks, the project has begun. As some of you may know, I recently purchased a Jacob Dickert Lancaster Long Rifle in .50 cal from Track of the Wolf. This is my first build so I am starting this thread to show my progress, and to ask questions of you experienced builders out there if/when I get stuck.
I have a few photos to show so far (if I can figure out how to post them).

Draw-filing bottom 5 flats (42" Colerain Barrel).


The Stock (semi-fancy curly maple).


Inletting the barrel.


Finished barrel channel.


Trigger assembly.

[ridjrunr]

[Riley/MN]

Hope ya don't mind if I pull up a stump & watch.....

[4-Liberty]

Be my guest, Riley! Everyone is welcome to join! It's going to be a little difficult to move forward though, because the lock and butt plate are backordered. I might have to work on some of the brass that I do have.

[sse]

Oh yeah, we're watchin'...

[4-Liberty]

I have my first question. I'm starting to second guess myself about my inletting the barrel. I used transfer color to do this but I wasn't certain if I was finished properly inletting the barrel. What is the transfer color supposed to look like on the barrel channel? Is it okay to have bare spots on the channel indicating no barrel-to-channel contact, or am I over-thinking this?

[Hank in WV]

You really don't need as much contact as you would think. As long as you don't see any movement between the barrel and the stock when you squeeze them together, it should be fine. Of course you do want full contact along the top edge of the channel so as to not leave any gaps.

[Captchee]

you want as much collor transfer on the bottom flat as you can get .  its not uncommon to get a few  open areas , just try and get as much  black as you can .
 go slow  and you will get it .  it wont seem like it as the barrel will go in and out so many times .

[4-Liberty]

Thank you, Hank and Captchee! I just might shave it down just a smidgen more to get a little more contact. I do have a good snug fit on the side flats without any gaps; I was sure to not mess that up.

[4-Liberty]

Question about the barrel. I have all of the flats draw-filed. So, should I polish the barrel before or after I cut the dovetails for the sights and barrel lugs? Also, what is a good process to polish the flats?
Thanks for the help!

[Captchee]

IMO you shouldnt polish the barrel .  simply draw file it doen to 300 or better . then use fine emery with a backer block to smooth it all out an keep the corners of the flats good and sharp

[4-Liberty]

Captchee-Do you mean to use up to 300 grit paper to draw-file (paper warped around the file), and then move to a fine emry cloth? How fine of a grit?

I've heard of using steel wool, what do you think of this?

Would you suggest doing this before I cut the dovetails, or after?

[Captchee]

Do you mean to use up to 300 grit paper to draw-file (paper warped around the file), and then move to a fine emry cloth

 you can do that if you like

  you should have a fine file  to do the finish draw filing .  then come back with 300 or better emery paper  on a block and block sand the barrel  to take out any  file  lines you might have . there really isnt any need to go past 300-350 .  unless your doing a finish like niter blue . in which case  you take it way down to a very fine polish  . but always polish with a backer block or you will round the  edges of the flats.
as to prior to cutting the dove tails .  you dont want to do any draw filing after  or you will end up with the  dove tailed part “like sights “setting proud . Light  finish work wont hurt to do  after you cut the dove tails . But  if you have draw filed correctly you should have a real nice surface now .
 OHHh and polishing to  smooth can actually  slow the rusting process if your going to brown the barrel

[4-Liberty]

That makes sense! I plan on browning the barrel so I just block sanded the bottom 3 flats to 320 grit. It looks pretty clean! (I'll do the other 5 flats later in case the barrel gets dinged during the building process.)

I guess the next step is to cut in the dovetails for the barrel lugs. I planned on marking the inside width of the dovetail in the bottom flat, and the depth of the dovetail on the two bottom oblique flats. Then I would use a hack saw to cut a series of cuts within those marks, and then file off the high spots until i reach the depth marks. Then plan on cutting in the dovetail with a "safeside" 3-cornered file. This is my first time, does that sound about right?

It's a 42" straight barrel with 3 lugs; I plan on placing the first lug (breech end) 11" from the breech. That would place it about 1.5" behind the ramrod entry pipe, but I'm not too sure about where I should place the 2 forward lugs. I'd like to hide them under the two forward ramrod pipes but the tangs of the ramrod pipes are as wide as the pipe itself. The problem is that I'm afraid the barrel lug mortise will break through the ramrod grove. I could shave some metal off of the barrel lug but it already is a pretty small target to hit with a drill, or I could cut in an notch on the ramrod pipe tangs but that might take some precision lining them up correctly on the stock. Or I could just go through the stock with the barrel lug mortise and let it be covered up by the ramrod. I don't really want to do that because I will always be aware of the imperfection. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks Captchee! This greenhorn really appreciates the info!  

[Captchee]

slow down there .
your dove  tail procedure sounds correct .
Remember to measure twice cut one . Its actually for me , measure 8 or 9 times and cut once, . I forget  my measurements LOL
 Also  stay alittle inside your marks . Its much easier to take a little more  metal off then it is to try and replace it once its gone
 But first there are some things that need to be looked at  that are specific to Pre- carves .
 Y have you dropped your RR down the bore and marked the breech face yet ?
 Then compared  the breech location to   where  the center of the pan will be when you fit your lock ?
 See you do not have the luxury of adjusting your lock  very much do to the mortise inletting already being done .. So you have to make sure your barrel inlet is  fare enough back  so as to be able to place a liner or drill a flash hole so that its center of the pan on the lock .
 Once you have confirmed that  then you can  positioning and installing under lugs

 As to the pins .
 Normally I place my front pin 2½  to 3 inchs back from the muzzle . That will make it forward of your first RR pipe . The middle one is place at ½ the distance between the entry and the pipe at the muzzle end.
 Now the exception to the distance on the  front  pin  is that  if your doing a molding along the RR channel AND that molding is to stop  at say 3 ½ inchs from the  muzzle , then , the front lug must be back alittle . BUT  the rule normally is that with a small thin forestock , you want the front lug as far forward as you can

.
 When it comes to the under lugs breaking through to the RR channel . Yep that can happen. Especially if your working with a stock that has a proper thickness web between the barrel and the RR channel . IE1/8 to 3/16th .
 Most  pre carve stock makers  leave it on the ¼ inch side though .
 Its actually not as had to   hit the under lugs as you would think  . But its important you get as good a fit  of the barrel to the channel as you can .
Also you will need a depth gage  , a cheep Micrometer   or a small 3/8, slide T square .
 But we can address that  when the time comes
 don’t jump to far ahead  as there are things we need to look at before you  even start to worry about setting pipes and drilling for pins