Jacob Dickert Build Progress

[Captchee]

looking good .
 nice work area to . one doesnt need much more then that .
 

[gunmaker]

You could move the vise a little. I worked for years in a little basement space just like that, gun & bench about same length.  Just watch out swinging the stock around with the bbl. out...You COULD end up with a 1/2 stock.  Don't ask how I know this...Really nice metal work...Tom

[Uncle Russ]

I do envy guys who can work in such small places, which most likely means they all have much better organization skills than I do.
I seem to justify my clutter with different projects....all in some state of completion known only to myself.

Good on ya 4-Liberty!  :notworthy

Uncle Russ...

[4-Liberty]

Thank you for the compliments, gentlemen!

Hmm, a half-stock Lancaster Longrifle.  :lol:

I just marked out my spot for the front barrel tenon. I plan on placing it 3.75" back from the muzzle (measuring from the middle of the tenon), and the front ramrod pipe will be about 1/4"-1/2" behind the tenon. I just wanted to know, before I start cutting, if that is too far back? I'm pretty sure it's not, but I just wanted to double check. I will be placing a brass grooveless muzzle cap on eventually.

[Captchee]

that distance should be fine Liberty

[greggholmes]

Please educate me as to what is the clear blue substance around the spot where the dovetail is filed and what is it's purpose?

dykem blue is a brand name, its also know as Prussian blue.

http://www.toolup.com/aervoe_6090_prussian-blue-high-spot-indicator.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp1073750&gclid=CMqSs82Hp7wCFUVlfgodMU8ARw

[4-Liberty]

Well I now have all 3 barrel tenons installed and inletted, so I suppose my next step is to pin them and install the lock bolts, but before I do that I would like to remove some of the excess lock panel and side panel wood. Couple questions on that: first, do the panels run parellel to each other on the Lancaster style that I'm building? I've seen photos where some panels tapper a little wider toward the rear, I'm assuming for added strength. Second question, what is the best way to remove this wood to make sure the area stays flat and too much woo isn't removed?

[Captchee]

You can remove wood if you like . But myself I find it easier to drill the pins  when there is still enough wood so as to get them square . Once drilled the holes will be in the same spots regardless of how much wood is on the forestock .
 The other thing is the pins help hold the barrel in place which strengthens the stock while working on the  forearm which will become very weak and easily broken . In other words since its pinned  you don’t have to worry about keeping the barrel in the stock by your vice or clamps
 Also because the barrel is pinned , you can then place your nose cap  which is what will define the largest % of the forearm  from mid point up .

As to the panels growing wider . Some do , some don’t  . many of those that do , do so as a way to transition to the carving around the  entry  pipe .

 Now this shaping is also where I disagree with the video your watching.
 The triggers need to be set to depth . That depth defines how thin you can make you belly in relation to the RR channel .  It also defines  your pull and the location of your TG . Which in turn defines your wrist , Length of comb and helps with the lock panels.
Without that you end up with a deep fat bellied rifle .

 I know its real hard to hold back . You want to start seeing things take shape . But remember everything ties together . Hence the order of build . Jumping out of sequence in the wrong area   will effect other things . Stay the course . It will pay off down the road

[4-Liberty]

I guess the reason it seems like I am jumping out of order is because I am uncertain of the order sequence. I do have that book that I reference but it assumes that I am building from a blank so I believe the sequence might be altered a bit due to the fact I am building from a precarved stock. I also have that video that I reference, though I know it probably is not the best source, it's one of the few that I have. That being said, I have stepped back from the build for a couple days to lay out a progression of tasks that it will take me to successfully finish my first rifle.
They are as follows:
-Mark tenon & lock bolt drill holes
-Drill/pin barrel tenons
-Drill/tap lock bolts
-Assemble trigger
-Align trigger with sear
-Inlet trigger plate
-Drill/tap tang bolt
-Drill/tap touch hole
-Sand butt plate
-Inlet butt plate
-File/sand trigger guard
-Inlet/pin trigger guard
-Inlet/pin ramrod pipes
-Inlet muzzle cap
-Cut dovetails for sights
-Shape stock
-Inlet side plate/thumb/cheek/ patchbox/ toeplate inlays
-Engrave metal
-Carve stock moldings
-Finish stock surface
-Polish brass
-Sand barrel to 320 grit
-Brown barrel

I made this list keeping in mind how each task will affect the following tasks down the road. If there's any alterations or additional tasks that you suggest, please let me know.

[Captchee]

About the only changes in  in the order of build concerning a pre-carve is the lock barrel  inlet order . That only changes if the lock  mortise is already pre inlet .

[greyhunter]

Having  only put one fowler together, (So I don't know what I'm talking about), I question why you would wait til the end to brown the barrel? Are you planning on unmounting the barrel after it is pinned to do this? I soldered my tenons  on, then browned the barrel, mounted it and pinned it, then finished the stock. I was lucky enough to get the pins right the first time, let alone removing them and reinstalling.

[Captchee]

Having only put one fowler together, (So I don't know what I'm talking about), I question why you would wait til the end to brown the barrel? Are you planning on unmounting the barrel after it is pinned to do this? I soldered my tenons on, then browned the barrel, mounted it and pinned it, then finished the stock. I was lucky enough to get the pins right the first time, let alone removing them and reinstalling.

  as i said before , the barrel supports the  forearm , the forearm does not support the barrel . So as your shaping  , sanding , carving , it helps to have the barrel pinned to the stock .  If the barrel is already finished , then you have to  be especially careful damage the finish on the barrel .
At this stage the barrel is still going to come out and back any many times .

 The order is also a little misleading as  some of the things actually happen at the same time .
 Take the carving . This should be done IMO once the stock is brought to the point its near ready to finish stain . But once the carving is done then you have some sanding and shaping to do up to the  carving .

 Also concerning the finish . IE stain and oil . While the stock is drying , you can finish the barrel . So once the stock is dry , the barrel is simply put back in  the stock  .
 As to the pins . I leave them long until  the stock has been brought to 90 + %  shape . That way they are easily taken out and replaced

[greyhunter]

That explains it, thanks Charlie. I guess it is just a matter of being extra careful installing and removing the pins so as not to split out the pins entry/exit hole.

[Captchee]

With the pins  what I do is once they are cut down to be about 1/16 below the surface of the  finished stock demission  , I then round the ends  . Then  alittle polishing .  Your should only need slight force to push them in
 To remove them , I use a small  piece of  3/32 brazing rod that I have set to a small handed. .
Any rod would do  , even an extra pin. Just make sure it’s the same  or preferably slightly smaller  in size .

  Thus even if the wood swells slightly , all it takes is a slight tap with a wood or  rawhide mallet and the pins pop right out .

[4-Liberty]

As long as we're on the topic of pins, I have read that it is recommended to create a horizontal slot in the barrel tenon, rather than just a hole that snugly fits the barrel pin to allow for slight lateral movement during firing/jarring etc. so as to not damage the wood in the forestock. Thoughts?

I just moved a nice floor drill press to my basement that my cousin was generous enough to let me borrow during my build. I also made a center-to-center die that's going to make drilling holes in the stock a breeze! Pretty excited about that!