Cleaning Lock

[1Poet]

What do you all use to remove the "powder burns", or residue that seems to stain the pan and surrounding parts of the lock? I've used straight Balistol and Nitro solvent with a stain still in some places in the pan. Your ideas appreciated.

[prairie dog]

I just use moose milk and an old toothbrush.

[gunmaker]

Windex

[Hanshi]

Tap water.

[Riley/MN]

I just use moose milk and an old toothbrush.

Please expound on your moose milking techniques. Pictures would be great!  

[prairie dog]

I don't milk the moose!

I buy all my moose milk from this nice lady who runs a moose dairy.












 :rotf  :rotf  :rotf  :rotf  :rotf  :rotf  

[Two Steps]

:roll eyes  

[4-Liberty]

I swirl it in boiling water for about a minuite. Takes care of all carbon buildup. The water evaporates off of it very quickly because it is very hot. Then I just a couple drops of oil on the moving parts, then you're good to go.

[RonC]

I use water with a dab of dishwashing detergent to clean all of the metal parts, including the lock. Then I lube the lock where necessary and use some rust preventative like EezOx.
I wonder if it would be work better to put the lock in the ultrasonic cleaner I use for cartridge cases and metal parts of "suppository" firearms. Is there any risk to removing the case hardening, both real and fake?
Ron

[Geezer in NH]

Stain = Patina

[Twowithone]

T.C. 13 works for me. And Ive used Windex before.

[Stormrider51]

Actually, Geezer nailed it.  What is called "patina" is dead rust that colors the metal.  Over time the spots join up and color the entire area.  The patina soaks up oil and protects the surface from further rusting.  It's the same idea as bluing or browning.  Both are nothing more than a controlled coating of rust (iron oxide).  Completely removing the stains means removing the stained metal.  You can do it but you are also accelerating the wear on the metal surface.

Storm

[RobD]

there's really no viable way around metal stain/patina.  clean as best ya can and just accept the results for what they are - a firearm that's been used.  ain't no issue or problem for me.  in fact, i don't want no slick clean looking flinter - too sterile lookin for my tastes.  

[RonC]

I don't worry much about the external area. Just clean with water and a little rust protection. The cleaning I referred to above that can be done in an ultrasonic cleaner is on the internals. It is easy enough to clean the easy-to-reach spaces. However, it is hard to even get a Q-tip in the lock workings and I don't want to take them apart every time I clean. The ultrasonic cleaner can get into those nooks and crannies and I can lube and protect afterward.
Ron

[Geezer in NH]

I lost the case colors on a Double barrel action in the ultrasound cleaner was using simple green. It was gone in 10 minutes. Be carefull