Newbie needs some help

[Rusty Gunn]

New to the forum and have a question. I have a T/C 50 cap lock purchased in 1974 that I am comfortable with, I also have a newer GPR in 50 cal flint that I would like some help with. The problem is that the GPR springs are way too strong. I'd like some guidance in tuning the springs or a replacement source. The main spring is IMO way too heavy and destroys good flints in very few shots. The frizzen spring is also > 30# pull( crude measure method). I am not new to firearms and am comfortable in changing or grinding v springs. Can someone suggest spring weights that I can strive for to get some decent life out of good quality English flints with the Lyman lock rather than change out to an L&R or?
Thank you
 Ed

[RobD]

i have a gpr flinter in .50 as well, a kit i put together and posted at this thread - viewtopic.php?f=8&t=21475

i've had way more than a few of these investarms flintlock rifles (rebranded as lyman, cabelas, dixie gun works, and others) and the locks are all the same, and all use a coil spring instead of the classic flat spring for the cock.  

i don't think that investarms offers different coil spring weights, but it wouldn't hurt to check.  fwiw, i like that heavy cock spring as it yields a fast lock time.  in setting up the flint, i'll close the frizzen over the pan, set the cock to half, set the flint in the cock's jaws so that its cutting edge is about 1/16" to 1/8" away from the frizzen and tighten it down (i use a leather wrap over the flint, as most of us do).  bevel up or down?  experiment to see where the flint strikes the frizzen and at what angle, which should not be so perpendicular as to want to bust off its edge.

as to the frizzen's flat spring, i guess you could make a new one, or retemper it, or change its angle for a softer frizzen action.  a stiff frizzen never bothered me, and if the flint's angle is correct it'll strike the frizzen's face at just the right angle to both shave metal and push it off the pan.

i get really good cock and frizzen action on the gpr kit i just built, and good sparks too.  

[Hanshi]

Welcome to the forum, Rusty Gunn.

[rollingb]

Hi Rusty Gunn, and welcome to our TMA website.  :rt th

For Investarms "parts", you might check this site out,..... Hawken Cap & Ball Rifle;Bob's Gun Shop. Excam Import by Invest Arms

[RobD]

good parts resource, rondo!  

yes, you can remove the frizzen spring and all will be just fine at the range ... but for hunting or woods walks, you'll need to monitor that frizzen and pan so she don't spill off the priming powder.  best bet would be to work with the existing spring to make it weaker.  there are some gunsmiths hereabouts who could surely help in that manner. but what'll still be critical is the angle that the flint edge strikes the frizzen face.  during that adjustment, watch that the flint doesn't get pushed too far back in the cock's jaws as to have the top jaw whack the frizzen face before the flint!    

[rollingb]

When/if reducing a flat spring's tension by material removal, always carefully do it on the "outside" edge of the spring,... never on the "flat" of the spring or "inside" edge.  

[Rusty Gunn]

Thank you all for the help. Before I change anything, I'm going to get a larger variety of flints to try with both leather and lead wraps.
Ed

[RobD]

remember, flint position counts a big bunch.

[rollingb]

Thank you all for the help. Before I change anything, I'm going to get a larger variety of flints to try with both leather and lead wraps.
Ed

In my experience with using lead wraps, they add to the "impact" of the flint striking the frizzen because of the added weight (which will likely compound the problem you're having now).
Also when using lead, you will find yourself having to re-tighten the jaws of the cock (more often) or the flint will become loose.

IMHO,.... leather wraps just plain work better than lead (at least for me).  

YMMV

[RobD]

+1 on leather wraps over lead wraps.

[Uncle Russ]

+1 on leather wraps over lead wraps.

+2
Having tried both. too many times to count, I settled on leather many years ago.

Uncle Russ....

[Hanshi]

+3.  Leather is the way to go.

[Two Steps]

You didn't mention what size flint you're using.  TOW recommends their number 5 (5/8") flint for the GPR.  That's one of the smaller flint sizes.
What rfd about setting your flint is a +1 from me.  You might also lower your cock all the way down (as if you'd just shot the GPR) and look at the position of your flint...it should be pointing into the pan.
Good luck on getting her to work the way you want...it's a good solid rifle  
Al

[Rusty Gunn]

Update, I bought several different flints and am happy with the TOTW black english flints.
Using a leather wrap and a small wood flat toothpick shim under the bottom rear of the flint, I'm getting about 80 shots from the flints with good spark and minimum reknapping.
I'm happy with this rifle. Thanks for evveryones help.
RG

[RobD]

awesome news, rusty!