The other project

[Winter Hawk]

Could you post a photo?

Thanks,
~Kees~

[shootrj2003]

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

[rollingb]

I did finally screw up,and I don’t know how bad this is,it’s not game over but it seems my flash guard is ahead of my stock there is a,maybe 1/8” gap between them,this is ignorance on my part until I started inletting the lock I was only vaguely aware of something called a flash guard or the reason for that little curved section of wood ,does not seem terrible to me,hardly even noticed it before!

Such a gap is NOT unusual, and it's nothing to be overly concerned about, here is a picture of an old french fusil with the same sort of gap,....
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xWfjNt0S-34/YHt5duhNdnI/AAAAAAACELs/vUJzmuk-tW4CnIVneS6fsJTQybPd_At_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1280/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-08-25%2Bat%2B8.52.06%2BAM%2B%25283%2529.jpg

[Ohio Joe]

I wouldn't worry about that at all. 

[shootrj2003]

That was as I thought inconsequential,however with that on my mind I realized tonight ( ready?) I had done a really bang up job of flattening my inlet surface and to me the sides were really good with no huge gaps  or cut outs.the problem was,I had taken the shoulder of wood behind the bolster out and leveled the bottom of the inlet to that resulting in wy to much wood gone at the top rear of the inlet and a really out of level inlet surface,( but nicely done),I thought of ways to put back wood even managed to make a wedge shaped piece that fit ,however,I know that when it came to the operations necessary to inlet the lock parts no thin slat of wood will likely remain without breaking ,without any other reasonable recourse the only way to cure this situation was,another stock,can’t do it budget overrun and stubborn Germanblood that said “ you made the mess,you fix it!”.the only other option ,that I could see was to glass bed it...I know ...not HC ..however my first inclination is to build a good rifle the second consideration was to be as historically correct as possible,..and my apologies,I did try and will as much as possible do that, however ,in this instance some epoxies have been and are being used ,I will in future endeavors try to keep it that but I really did not want to keep quiet and have my use of epoxies and new age methods be exposed and cause me to get burned at the stake for witchcraft or anything anything else.Please forgive and understand. .
 [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ] as you can see I prepped the inlet after cleaning with laquer thinner by scoring to give the epoxiy something to hold which is important with hard tight wood like this maple,I also colored it and mixed it with fine sawdust which I have found helps the epoxy cut better and it also thickens it I greased the plate with wax,and filled all holes with wax keep stuff out of the holes and,then laid a wax paper pattern under the plate to keep any thing out of the holes and then Saran Wrap under that to make sure there’s no stickage,would not want any chance of the plate getting locked in with glue and have to pry it out and maybe bend the plate,I really wanted to inlet this by hand but maybe next time I’ll pay attention.

[shootrj2003]

Well they say bad luck comes in threes,mistakes also ,it doesn’t matter it’s all bad !Not really all,just some obtacles I have to overcome and improvise on ,I have the lock inlaid,then had to do just a bit more( leave well enough alone.) [ Invalid Attachment ] I just stared in amazement! Luckily it’s not a crack that goes across the barrel channel or gets derectly impacted by recoil just a junk above and into the inlay ,hopefully it won’t break out after a few shots and stays repaired!I think I can refinish it invisible, [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ]  I am ,while waiting for at least 24 hours for titebond 3 to get set good and solid,trying to plan my lock bolt(s) ,I don’t have many options the best 2 Central possibilities are into the bolster or immediately under it both of them require to drill through  the hook breech and either through the breech bolt hook or slightly grind the hook for clearance very little room for error as it has to either hit the bolster or option 2 has go just about right through the L&R stamp and directly under the bolster any lower will interfere with main spring movement (NO!) to far foreword it will hit the tail of the mainspring,to far  rearward and it will hit the arm of the  tumbler [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ]  the only other bolt options are just ahead of the mainspring and at the tail and under the sear bar I have to at least do I of the first two and possibly the foreword position although Lyman uses just one,of course thier lock is a different can of worms and designed with a thick heavy boss for the bolt .I am thinking the bolster as that wil pull it tight to the barrel and make for a tight seal between the barrel and pan and supply more metal for threading. However that might just require drilling through the breech bolt hook and removing the lock bolt to remove the barrel [ Invalid Attachment ]  OK......WHAT DO YOU THINK.?the lower position all requires drill into the slant of the next flat a whole mother aspect!I am pretty sure what I’ll have to do but let’s hears some feedback  a regular old breechbolt barrel has its attractions. But not in the budget right now. I roped this mustang ...now let’s see me ride it!

[rollingb]

Going through the bolster with your lock bolt is ideal, but I've never built anything that required a hooked breech so I'm probably of little help, can you move both lock bolts rearward enough to get some clearance?

As for the blemish in your stock,.... does the crack go clear through into the barrel channel?
I've always stayed away from glass bedding my barrels, but in a case such as yours I'd probably consider doing so after removing a little wood in the channel. 

[shootrj2003]

This only my first build but the lock I’m using does not allow many places to bolt,the very ends front and back and the two central places already mentioned,I would rather uae the center positionand forward just in front of the main spring if I have two bolts ,one may suffice .it’s a learning curve...but a sharp one!I never thought a hooked breech would make a difference til I got around the curve..and there she was!

[Ohio Joe]

I agree with Rollingb. Just go through the bolster if you have to. The Plug threaded into the breech is doing what it's suppose to, so there should be no worries about that.

[rollingb]

This only my first build but the lock I’m using does not allow many places to bolt,the very ends front and back and the two central places already mentioned,I would rather uae the center positionand forward just in front of the main spring if I have two bolts ,one may suffice .it’s a learning curve...but a sharp one!I never thought a hooked breech would make a difference til I got around the curve..and there she was!

I have several flintlocks AND percussions that only have one lock bolt. 

If you're gonna use a side plate that has 2 holes in it, simply but a "dummy bolt" in the front hole and it'll be fine. 

[shootrj2003]

It didn’t require the hooked breech I just revamped my Lyman and didn’t have the sense or experience to realize what the hook breech would effect.Now I have to deal with it .lol but I do have a solution that’s workable.I think.

[shootrj2003]

Thought I’d finally get back to letting you know how’s it going! First off the crack repaired nicely the finish would help it disappear,the lock inletted without a problem using 1 bolt by drilling the hole as far back on the bolster as possible and as low on the bolster corner leaving just enough space for strong threads I was succesful(TROY at Stonewall Creek suggested as far back as possible,I added the low part!)putting the hole there enabled me to avoid problems with the breech bolt hook and with the hooked tang o just had to file a divot in the back for the lock bolt to pass through and no problems with the normal operation of the hook breech.Unfotunately after inletting the lock I discovered a problem with it,the lock would release the cock way to easy ,matter of fact if I tapped the side with a hammer the sear would release so I sent it back to L&R for repair,no problem just a pain,meanwhile I’ll dowhat  I can
,I inletted the trigger leaving adjustment space and not setting any screws until the lock returns.
  I rough shaped the stock back to the buttstock from the grip area foreward ,I’ll continue that tomorrow,with any luck íll finish the rifle when the lock comes back [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ]  [ Invalid Attachment ]

[rollingb]

  

[Ohio Joe]

Good to read you're back on track with your project. 

[KDubs]

I'm still working on my kit but what I am Assembling doesn't compare to what you're Building.
 I admire your ability. Looking good
 Kevin