CVA conversion

[Ironhand]

So I got my great nephew hooked on flintlocks. Now he wants a flint deer rifle.

Finding a reasonable priced flinter is a challenge.

I know people have converted cap locks to flint. I have a CVA Frontier rifle that is a candidate. It has a drum and nipple, not a patant breech.

So, the question is

1. Can it be done?

2. How is it done?

3. How hard is it to do?

4. Where do I get the parts?

Thanks
IronHand

[Ohio Joe]

No real help here Ironhand. Just a heads up;

Right now whatever you do - do not remove that drum / bolster. It's almost impossible to ever get it lined back up in the breech if you do. Wait for someone to come along that knows about the application change you want to make. 

[shootrj2003]

 It seems to me you can do it,but listen to Joe -he knows stuff,{[the drum normally would be removed }and a “liner”of sorts installed with a hole leading to the powder chamber in the breech,then a flint lock would be inletted and installed -aCVA flint lock would be easiest,but I thought they were small for a rifle,but mine worked fine and good luck on finding one maybe.NOTE,I said the drum would be removed and Joe said if you remove the drum difficulties reusing it are indicated! If he said that there is a reason it may be a one way job,once a flint always a flint ,he probably knows more than I do about this ,I think ,if a drum is loosened It is like any threaded bolt type item stretched and will not fasten down in the same exact spot and may need to be tightened more to be secure,this means the nipple will be further clockwise then before and out of line with the hammer -kind of important.-I have not ever done this I only THINK I know what to do and might be overlooking something else also! It’s easy to be a capper…it’s easy to be a flinter but hard to be both.I have heard of “switchers” but never made much sense to me. Have more fun ,buy a flintlock too.

[Ohio Joe]

It seems to me you can do it,but listen to Joe -he knows stuff,{[the drum normally would be removed }and a “liner”of sorts installed with a hole leading to the powder chamber in the breech,then a flint lock would be inletted and installed -aCVA flint lock would be easiest,but I thought they were small for a rifle,but mine worked fine and good luck on finding one maybe.NOTE,I said the drum would be removed and Joe said if you remove the drum difficulties reusing it are indicated! If he said that there is a reason it may be a one way job,once a flint always a flint ,he probably knows more than I do about this ,I think ,if a drum is loosened It is like any threaded bolt type item stretched and will not fasten down in the same exact spot and may need to be tightened more to be secure,this means the nipple will be further clockwise then before and out of line with the hammer -kind of important.-I have not ever done this I only THINK I know what to do and might be overlooking something else also! It’s easy to be a capper…it’s easy to be a flinter but hard to be both.I have heard of “switchers” but never made much sense to me. Have more fun ,buy a flintlock too.

You nailed it John!

I once shortened a CVA .45 barrel from the breech to build my son his first muzzleloading rifle... So, since I was going to shorten the brl from the breech (as that was what the experts called for back in those days) and then drill & tap and install a new plug - then tap for drum anyway, I thought that was a good time to put this "reinstall of the CVA bolster and drum to the test.

Sir,,, you are 100% on the mark!!! Once that drum / boltster are removed - there is no lining it up again. I've heard people claim they've removed them and re' installed them and they lined up perfect - but I never (and will never) believe one word of that - and others shouldn't either. Now it may have happened once, but what are the percentages of that happening? Not very high IMHO...

 

Side Note; L&R use to make CVA Replacement Locks - I don't know if they still do?

Also, I just went out to my workshop and studied that CVA Drum & Boltster (which will not line up once it's removed / but,,, it appears to me one could simply [cut off the drum and drill and tap for a vent] - I leave this up to the person making the conversion as a possible option... Will it work? I don't know? that's an awful long way to the center of that bolster to ignite from a vent. At best I think the ignition would be slow even by flintlock standards which is IMHO quick. And I do believe you would have to fight fouling issues because of the small "L" channel you would be dealing with.

[PetahW]

.

FWIW




IMO, a CVA percussion-to-flint conversion would need to be done via cutting off the ignition end of the barrel, installing a breechplug/tang, then moving the barrel inletting to align the touchhole/vent with the pan of an installed flint lock.

Of course, besides the barrel/stock rework, that would also move the RR thimbles & barrel wedge tenons.

You may be better off buying the parts and assemble a separate rocklock yourself.

A Traditions™ Deerhunter Flintlock can be had for around $319.00 if you can find one F/S - and involves no work beyond opening yer wallet.

.

[Ohio Joe]

Agree completely, PetahW 

[Winter Hawk]

Side Note; L&R use to make CVA Replacement Locks - I don't know if they still do?

They sure do!  But, if you go to Deer Creek Products they have the CVA locks (https://www.deercreekproducts.net/store/p1063/Hawken_Flint_Lock.html) and mine does very well for me.

it appears to me one could simply [cut off the drum and drill and tap for a vent] - I leave this up to the person making the conversion as a possible option...

The way I understand it is that the CVA flintlock barrels started out for percussion and then they did exactly what you suggest.  Just remember that, as PetahW's drawing shows, the drum was screwed across the bore into the other side, and then was drilled out from the muzzle.  If ignition is too slow you can always cut the breech off, rebreech it with a standard flat faced plug and drill a new touch hole.  It would also necessitate cutting a new underlug dovetail and shortening the rib to compensate setting the barrel back.

A liner is not needed until/unless the vent gets enlarged over time.

~Kees~

[Hanshi]

I honestly don't know if it would be worth the effort and aggravation.  You could try and find a used flint T/C and get a better gun, same for an older Lyman.  There's no such thing, unfortunately, as an inexpensive quality flintlock rifle.

[shootrj2003]

Hummm! ? Well I’ll be dipped in sh…