Plastic nose cap on Uberti Hawken?

[sclearman]

Folks, I've come back for more. Way back around 2016 I made a trade and ended up with an Uberti Hawken and accoutrements : http://tradmla.org/tmaf/index.php?topic=21816.msg204471#msg204471

Basically that rifle has been sitting next to my Lyman GPR that I've had for much longer. Life has finally brought me to a point where I have property to hunt on and a local muzzleloader season. Out they came, the Lyman was pretty much ready to go, the Uberti had issues.

The Uberti would not lock the hammer back. I assumed someone who didn't know what they were doing tried to set the trigger to light, but that wasn't the issue.  I ended up taking everything apart. I found what looked like half dried syrup inside the lock and triggers. Triggers were stuck together so much they had overcome the springs. It looked like someone had dipped the stock in oil as a wood finish and assembled the rifle without wiping down the internal lock areas.  Additionally, this rifle has, as best I can tell, a plastic nose cap.

I ended up stripping the finish from the wood just so I could get it all clean. I'm going back with an oil finish unless there is a good reason not to, Watco Danish Oil is what I have in mind.  The thimble entry (not sure exactly what it's called) is 2 pieces. The round part held by one screw, the flat part held by glue maybe.

My questions are why the plastic nose cap, where is that from? What wood finish is recommended? And why the 2 piece ramrod entry?

[Ohio Joe]

Plastic nose cap... Wow, that's hitting below the belt for sure. I've always (heard / felt) that Uberti was a step up on their products, (and maybe at one time they were) - but not anymore...

I've used the Watco Danish Oil, but I'm not a big fan of it. It'll work, but there's better finishes out there... However, if you're in a pinch - at least you have the Danish Oil to fall back on. 

[sclearman]

You know I can't say for sure it came from factory this way. I suppose it could have been a kit.

What are the better finishes?

[Ohio Joe]

I always liked the water based dark walnut crystals (2 to 3 coats depending on the wood of walnut or maple) and two coats of Tru-oil,,, but there's a lot more choices out there than what I've used. Maybe some others will chime in. It's really a personal choice of what "you" like, not someone else...

[Hank in WV]

I was always a fan of Formby's tung oil until their prices went through the roof.

[Uncle Russ]

I was always a fan of Formby's tung oil until their prices went through the roof.

Hank, I've noticed that too. No clue as what may have happen for them to almost double their prices, but they sho'nuff have.
I've always been a fan of Tung Oil, but the same is true with True Oil, which I like to thin out just a bit and use multiple coats.
As was mentioned above, It's your choice. you do what you like best.
As for as that Nose Cap, THAT does not sound like Uberti to me.
All the Uberti's I have dealt with, which is a limited few, were all just a notch above whatever was in 2nd place, insofar as fit and finish.

Russ...

[sclearman]

I guess I'm trying to decide if I should leave the nosecap  or remove and replace it.  If I remove it, what do I replace it with, and how it it attached? right now its dark, almost black dull color.

[Ohio Joe]

I guess I'm trying to decide if I should leave the nosecap  or remove and replace it.  If I remove it, what do I replace it with, and how it it attached? right now its dark, almost black dull color.

Are you sure it's a plastic nose cap - and not a German Silver nose cap?

You could check out Dixie Gun Works for a nose cap I would think.

[Winter Hawk]

I would remove the nose cap and scratch the inside to see what color it is.  If the scratch is shiny metal it probably isn't plastic.

~Kees~

[KDubs]

I just received a hawken conversion kit from the hawken shop. For my TC hawken.
 Rear sight, trigger guard , butt plate and Nose cap.
 Rough, cast as is so needs Some work but they state the kit will fit most hawken knockoffs .
 You just order a nose cap also.
 Worth a look see.
 Kevin

[sclearman]

I did take my pocket knife and carve just a little cut on the barrel channel where it wouldn't show.  It was definitely not any type of metal.  I was 'soft' and I'm 99% sure its plastic.  I'll leave open the possibility it is some type of dark wood, although I've worked with wood enough on making pens and even ebony caps on Mausers to know it is definitely not ebony or any hard wood.  Its as soft as balsa or, well...plastic.

[sclearman]

Honestly I think it going to bother me if I don't replace it.  Just knowing it's not 'right' in any way.  Not to say this Uberti Hawken is an accurate copy of a real thing but...It's close I think.  Close enough that it shouldn't have plastic on it. 

Am I right that the nose cap is covering wood, and not attached like an ebony tip cap on a custom bolt action? Those generally use a dowl pin and are glued with a straight joint.  Am I correct that this 'cap' should be a cap an have wood extending under it to which it is 'glued'?  If so that makes me feel better about removing it and getting another to replace it. 

On that note, what would be the 'most correct' cap replacement? The rifle has the lock, hammer, breech plug, butt plate and toe plate all CCH.  would I need to try to get a CCH nose cap?  I could probaly find a way to do a lil CCH at home if I need to.  Or would the German Silver be more appropriate?

[Ohio Joe]

Honestly I think it going to bother me if I don't replace it

I can understand that.

The only other thing I can come up with (or think at this time) is it "horn" by any chance?

[BEAVERMAN]

Honestly I think it going to bother me if I don't replace it

I can understand that.

The only other thing I can come up with (or think at this time) is it "horn" by any chance?

That's what i was thinking, maybe buffler horn? it wouldn't be the first Hawken to have that, I've made 5 buff horn caps in years past for me and a couple club members

[sclearman]

Tell me what horn would be like.  I've never really dealt with it, but I thought it would be very brittle, hard to cut or scratch.