Favorite glues?

[WhiteBlanket]

I was at the woodworking store this week and found two glues I have not used in knifemaking - 'Gorilla Glue" and "Titebond Polyurethane Liquid Glue."

 I was wondering if anyone had used these glues in their knifemaking.  

Secondly, what are your favorite glues?  I am aware of the use of pine pitch and pewter to set a knife blade, but I am more interested in the use of these glues in the attachement of wooden scales to a full tang blade.

One of the other epoxies I bought finishes in an ugly gray and I don't think I will use it again.

[BEAVERMAN]

WB, ALL the polyurethane glues expand way too much for knife scales, stick with epoxies, the slower the cure working time on the epoxy the stronger they become when set, now that being said, ive used 5 min epoxy on scales and I double dog dare ya to try to get that wood away from the steel, the wood gives up the ghost and splinters before the adhesion lets go, of  course as always others mileage may vary! all depends on how you prep the steel!

[TomG]

I use the 5 min epoxy also.

[jbullard1]

I get mine at NAPA 5 minute and 30 minute cure time and its clear
Use the 30 most of the time don't have to hurry as much

[Fletcher]

The only place that Gorilla glue has worked for me is the leather handles of throwing knives and it also works great to gllue back on the ears and legs of the 3-D animal archery targets when they get mishandled or shot off!

[Three Hawks]

Epoxies are NOT very heat resistant, nor are they resistant to alcohols, either industrial or beverage.  The 5 minute set epoxies are not as strong as slow cure, but for knife scales and other applications  that don't require a great deal of structural integrity, such as cementing end plugs into powder horns, and things of that nature, the strength differential is only a topic of discussion, not a failure factor.  They also work better on porous or rough surfaces, and do best when only held in contact, with as little pressure as possible until set.  Most epoxies leave a clear glue line that takes dyes poorly.

Gorilla glue adheres to nearly any clean surface, but has a problem with the excess expressing itself out of the joint,  requiring mechanical removal.  The excess can be scraped, cut or sanded, whichever is most suitable to the situation.   It is unbelievably strong, again requiring only moderate pressure to adhere properly. It leaves a light brown glue line.

Three Hawks

[Groundhog]

Durco Epoxy ... 5 minute is ok but the longer set epoxies are much stronger. Like anything the aplication has got to be clean.
A "putty" type two part epoxy I have put thru some extreme conditons at home and at work , is "PC-7" PASTE   it is very strong once set up ... even used it on an application where it stayed at 225 degrees with pressure behind it for months and months ... tuff stuff.
It can also be sanded down once set.
Not a real   sticky    glue
Gorilla glue is really junk ... don't do what they say it doooo.

[BEAVERMAN]

Gorilla glue is really junk ... don't do what they say it doooo.

 Except for wood to wood, strongest glue Ive used on woods, the wood around the joint will plinter before the glue lets loose!

[2-bellys]

problem with gorilla glue is not the glue  ,most time  it is the user  you have to dampen the parts to be glued and use only a small amount and spread it thin  then apply clamps it will provide a secure bond. but i like the old two part epoxy  ,myself .wally world sells some called plastic welder  that is very good.

[jasontn]

plastic welder is all i have tried, and it really works. tried gorilla glue once and didnt like it much.

[2-bellys]

and if you add food color you and make the plastic welder any color you want .

[Groundhog]

What part of the gorilla do they get the glue from ?

[jbullard1]

What part of the gorilla do they get the glue from ?

Duh!!  The sticky part  

[Groundhog]

Do it hurt the monkey ?

[RichW]

What part of the gorilla do they get the glue from ?

Not the nose.  Gorilla snot is a different kind of glue:  weatherstrip adhesive.