Craftsmanship > Gun Building and Repair

Barrel material??

(1/4) > >>

melsdad:
What type of steel are most barrels made out of? I think I remember reading that 4140 alloy was a common steel for barrels.


Thanks

Captchee:
yes today most are made from 4140 or 12L14
but there is really more to it then that .
 some comapanies extrude the metal . others  do not ??/ the other name also used today exscapes me right now . its 10 deg here and no heat in my shop . my brain is about frozen . maybe one of the others fellas can  refresh my memory alittle

 but basicly  its not the metal as much  as the way the stresses are relieved  within the metal . did i say it was cold here  

melsdad:
Thanks Charles, I guess I should have added that I was wondering what the material was so I can practice doing some engraving. I have a pretty good supply of 4140 material at work. I wanted to work on material that was the same as the barrel material would be.

Do you happen know what the hardness of an average barrel is on the Rockwell C scale?

FG1:
I think GM uses 1137 for theirs.

Captchee:
I couldn’t  tell you the hardness but I can tell you this .
CVA barrels will eat your gravers up . Literally you will spend  a lot of time sharpening . In fact just about every inch you will need to touch up the angles .
 This is what I find so odd about all the  roomers about those barrels being soft . Even cobalt tips  just  disappear.  They last just as long as M42 or high speed steal   in  what ever Jukar is using and cost 3 X as much .
 GM barrels  cut very nicely  and the ones from rice and Getz gut even nicer .
I find that  plain old cold roll is the best to  start on  if your going to  work on barrels .
Yes its a lot softer  but you will learn to keep you angles   while at the same time  be able to feel when the  your point is  getting dull .

 The thing that I have learned is that  the harder the steel  is , you need to change the geometry of the point , kinda like a wood chisel . Just as each wood is different so is each metal.
 With soft woods  you want a shallower heal . This keeps the   chisel  from diving on you . But when you go to harder woods  a steep heal will help hold the chisel in the material  and keep it from jumping out
Same with  gravers .  When the metal is hard , a shallow heal must be watched  or it will want to jump out and you will get  over runs .
 
 Go to Steve  Lindsey web sight  . Read all you can . While he  mostly about Pneumatic hammer gravers ,  it’s the same process as  chase graving or push graving .
 There is a wealth of knowledge there  with folks from Remington , colt  all the big names . These guys are the very people  who in this country do  work that demand 10 to 100’s of thousands of dollars just for their engraving  or charge thousands just for a 1 to 2 day class
BUT I have found   All of them are willing to help you out with questions . Pointers , information  no mater which of the 3 different  tools you chose to use ..
 These folks know the full scoop . don’t be afraid to ask   the most basic of question .
  Steves forum , is very much like ours here .  There is less traffic  but  they will answer you

http://www.engravingforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=2

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

Go to full version