Traditional Muzzleloading Association

The Center of Camp => People of the Times => Topic started by: jgr1974 on November 27, 2011, 09:39:59 PM

Title: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: jgr1974 on November 27, 2011, 09:39:59 PM
I am wishing to portray a clerk of the Missouri fur company.  I am wondering what is appropriate material for clerks clothing?  My limited research so far is that the "brigades' at least in the Missouri company was ran in a military manner, and the clerks were like line officers.  I also understand they tried to mimic the dress of the aristocrats of Europe in attire.  Have also learned that low class individuals may have worn the same cuts of clothing but lower qualities of material ie cotton instead of linen shirts?  I know cordaroy was a popular material much under represented in the fur trade.  Wondering if cords are an appropriate material for my attire or should I have the finer materials for clothing?
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: biliff on November 27, 2011, 11:07:23 PM
Not sure where the Missouri Co fits in, but this a material culture list for the NW and Canadian fur trade 1775-1825. The coding is a bit of a pain until you get used to it.
http://www.northwestjournal.ca/X2.htm

For example if you scroll down to shirts you will see that both cotton and linen shirts are considered as "proven" items but the cotton shirts were a common inventory item, whereas linen shirts where rare, only showing up once as an inventory item.

I'll let you dig thru it for any other items/materials. I saw cordaroy(sp?) trousers or britches listed in there somewhere.

From the reading I did for the Astoria BiCentennial this past summer, clerks were "middle management" for lack of a better term. They were expected to dress in the business or gentlemen's attire of the day, ie neck cloth, high collared waistcoat, top coat and appropriate hat.  This link has a couple of good pictures.
http://www.northwestjournal.ca/VIII11.htm
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: Puffer on November 28, 2011, 06:10:53 PM
If you are referring to the "Missouri Co." ran by the Chouteaus etal., then #1 read "Before Lewis & Clark" by Shirley Christian.
Your depiction of the Org. seems to be a little "off"  

The individuals involved in the Fur trade  ( Company) wore the attire of their "class peers" back east. So research the clothing styles of the social equals of the "clerks" ( both dress & work + dates & etc.)

Jack
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: jgr1974 on November 28, 2011, 07:55:37 PM
Thanks Puffer-was wondering if i would get a response from you!  I did order the book, also have A toast to the fur trade coming.  Will be a long winter sewing and reading!
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: Puffer on November 29, 2011, 11:48:14 AM
Jeremy, I "salute you" for your  awareness of the fact, that those involved in the fur  trade ( Co. wise ( at least those employed by the Missouri Co., NWC, HBC) did not attire themselves ( in the main) as the "popular Mythology's" portray.
I, like "biliff " have "zeroed" in on the NWC/HBC but the attitude of what was proper dress, is IMHO similar.
BTW, I would also PM "biliff" & get His thoughts. He did a great job of researching & his outfit is fantastic.
Jack
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: jgr1974 on November 29, 2011, 06:31:26 PM
Like I said I have very brief knowledge but the limited amount I have read, mainly from the Northwest journal site, most if not all supplies were bought or issued from the "company".  Like the big box stores the company had monopoly on the region, and were able to make money on the products that were already in route to be peddled to settlers and natives.  The cost of labor to transport these necessities for the employees or others like them was paid by the sweat and tears of themselves.

I am liking this era a lot better than the later period I used to partake in.  Seems like those in this era are more open to ideas, and strive to be different insterad of being sheep wearing the same dyed wool!

Puffer you actually made the suggestion to me to portray the Missouri company, as it is near my region.  I actually plan on taking the clerk impression to the actual level of trading and run a small store at events.  I am wondering what reenactors are interested in for the period and want to supply a variety of period items.  I am mainly looking at smalls that are easily transported like buttons thimbles tacks etc,  Items reenactors only need a few of but don't want to pay the shipping on.  Any other suggestions?
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: Puffer on November 29, 2011, 09:04:52 PM
Jeremy, I am not a trader, but so what I suggest is just what I see needed @ the rondys.
Needles & thread, small spools of twine,sinew, shooting supplies ( percussion caps, perhaps popular flint sizes,patches ( material & or pre cut.)
If you belong to a "club" ask what they see needed.
Good luck, Jack
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: jgr1974 on November 29, 2011, 11:55:46 PM
Thanks again puffer!  Not part of a club, been there done that.  Everyone has fun until someone gets hurt!  I am knid of a loner hence my monicher-Nechowen-which is creek for he who walks alone.
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: Sir Michael on February 28, 2013, 06:56:23 PM
This topic has set a while but, I just ran across a new autobiography that might shed a bit of light on the subject.  The Autobiography of Gurdon S. Hubbard it is available on line and can be down loaded.  He managed to get a job with the American Fur Company as a clerk at the age of about 15 if I remember correctly and describes being outfitted in his first tail coat by his parents before setting off from Montreal in 1816 or 1817. He also states that this coat and the rest of his kit packed in his cassette including the cassette weighed 60 lbs.

He goes on to say during the winter of 1817-1818
Quote
My clothing during this winter and for the subsequent years of my life as a trader, consisted of a buckskin hunting shirt or a blue capote belted in at the waist with a sash or buckskin belt, in which was carried a knife and sheath, a tomahawk, and a tobacco pouch made of the skin of some animal, usually otter or mink. In the pouch was carried a flint and steel and piece of punk.  

Underneath my outside garment I wore a calico shirt, breech-cloth, and buckskin leggins.  On my feet neips (Square pieces of blanket which were folded over the feet, and were worn in place of stockings.)  and moccasins, and sometimes in winter, a red knit cap on my head.  I allowed my hair to grow long and usually went bareheaded. When traveling in winter I carried, and sometimes wore, a blanket.

Not quite the image we have a frock coated trader. :Doh!

I realize this is slightly off the topic but it is closer than the references to the NWC and HBC as it is from the American perspective.
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: Puffer on March 01, 2013, 10:33:14 AM
mmmm.
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: rollingb on March 01, 2013, 01:08:55 PM
Quote from: "Sir Michael"
This topic has set a while but, I just ran across a new autobiography that might shed a bit of light on the subject.  The Autobiography of Gurdon S. Hubbard it is available on line and can be down loaded.  He managed to get a job with the American Fur Company as a clerk at the age of about 15 if I remember correctly and describes being outfitted in his first tail coat by his parents before setting off from Montreal in 1816 or 1817. He also states that this coat and the rest of his kit packed in his cassette including the cassette weighed 60 lbs.

He goes on to say during the winter of 1817-1818
Quote
My clothing during this winter and for the subsequent years of my life as a trader, consisted of a buckskin hunting shirt or a blue capote belted in at the waist with a sash or buckskin belt, in which was carried a knife and sheath, a tomahawk, and a tobacco pouch made of the skin of some animal, usually otter or mink. In the pouch was carried a flint and steel and piece of punk.  

Underneath my outside garment I wore a calico shirt, breech-cloth, and buckskin leggins.  On my feet neips (Square pieces of blanket which were folded over the feet, and were worn in place of stockings.)  and moccasins, and sometimes in winter, a red knit cap on my head.  I allowed my hair to grow long and usually went bareheaded. When traveling in winter I carried, and sometimes wore, a blanket.

Not quite the image we have a frock coated trader. :rt th

It never did make sense (to me) that traders would dress completely different than the trappers they were dealing with, while living under similar circumstances for extended periods.
The autobiography actually supports my long running belief, that many traders readily adjusted their clothing and lifestyle to "life in the mountains",.... much as the trappers did, when/while living far from the critical eye of "eastern civilization".
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: sse on August 01, 2013, 09:10:30 AM
Quote from: "blueberriblvd"
Here are many variety of and different color of cloths. you can visit and see some different cloths.
Thanks
Were you intending to post a link in there?  If so, dont see it...
Title: Re: Type of cloth for Clerks clothing?
Post by: 2 Locks on August 05, 2013, 08:40:18 PM
If you click on the profile button for blueberriblvd, then click "search users posts", you will see this "guest" is just trying to get you to his(?) kids clothing site.

Not quite Spam, but damn close, Scam maybe. :evil: