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Author Topic: Stock Wood  (Read 3598 times)

Offline halfdan

Stock Wood
« on: May 06, 2009, 02:29:31 PM »
I've been sitting here dreaming of future days when I may have a few $$$ for a rifle stock to use with a barrel I have from an old CVA .

What would be a good choice of wood for a ROOKIE to work with? Are there some woods that are easier or more forgiving than others? I'll be working with minimal tooling and learning as I go. May want to try a little wire inlay, or incise carving while I'm at it.

As always, informed suggestions, educated guesses, and two-bit opinions are gratefully accepted.

have fun,
Dave - Halfdan
Halfdan
Charter Member #149, Exp. 2/12
http://www.bellandcompanytraders.com
A Tradition for over 1/20th of a century!

Offline Indiana

(No subject)
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2009, 10:03:24 PM »
The less curl the better, for new builders, I think.  It's harder to inlet in really curly wood.  I have some grade 3 curly maple I'm working on now and my chisel likes to follow the curls in the wood.  Its a lot more time consuming and difficult, I believe.
"Damn the sword! When Virginia wanted a sword, I gave her one. Now she sends me a toy when I require bread!” -George Rogers Clark

Online Hank in WV

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(No subject)
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2009, 05:50:46 AM »
[size=150]SHARP TOOLS[/size]
Hank in WV
TMA Charter Member #65, exp 4/30/2026
"Much of the social history of the western world over the past three decades has involved replacing what worked with what sounded good. . ." Thomas Sowell

Offline Gordon H.Kemp

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« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2009, 10:30:58 AM »
What Hank says!!!!
Gordy
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Captchee

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(No subject)
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2009, 10:42:00 AM »
yep , the key is always sharp tools . Your blades and chisels should be so sharp that  just  brushing them will  just about require stitches .

 Im going to disagree with steve here .  Now I will say I fully understand his reasoning  . A very dense hardwood  produces  clean cuts  and nice carvings , wire work  and  better inlays .
 However  it also  requires that you first must learn to sharpen tools   so that you can push them through the wood .  To often  folks just getting started , resort to a mallet  and try to drive the chisels . Thus making  chips on their inlets . Sometimes even splintering and cracking  also results ..
  Now that all being said .  A truly dense hardwood makes  for a much nicer stock  in the end .
The other issue is ordering a blank. How do you ask for a harder wood ?
 Let me tell you what happens . Folks will ask
1)  I would like a hardwood please . The reply is , ahhh its all hard wood .
2)  I would like a dense wood please . The reply is  I have some  stocks with 4 or 5 P figure .

 neither of the above is going to get you  what steve is talking about . You have to  say you want a heavy  wood .  . IE , can you pick me a blank or pre carve , that’s  the heaviest you have ..
 If  stock ,,, A weighs say 4 lbs and stock B is cut to the very same shape and is of the same wood  ,  and is say  6 lbs , then stock B will be the harder more dense  stock .
 Figure matter 0 in this . You can have a  stock with 0 figure . Yet  still be the better stock , because its denser . Thus showing you skill better ..


So here is why im going to disagree with steve  on what a beginner with limited tools may want to start on .
 There  is a lot more to  using chisels and blades then just hogging out wood .
One needs to learn how to use the edge . how to turn the blades  while they cut  so as to produce different out comes  both in hard and softer woods .
 I think this is what  Indiana is getting at .  So I would give him credit where credit is do . Because even with a sharp edge , one has to learn  to feel the wood   so as to work  through the different densities which you will encounter  . I have never seen  a stock , even a really dense one that was 100% consistent from  butt to nose ..
 With a softer stock , one learns to read the wood , understand the grain . How the chisel reacts when going with and against the grain  .

 They also learn to get a feel for pushing the chisels .  Thus  hopefully less likely to start chasing with a  mallet.
 See each wood is like a learning step . They all have their considerations .
 Working with say English  walnut ,  takes a different hand then with  even Black walnut .
 Different maples are the same way . While they are different through their range and grades , they are also completely different the working with Cherry .
 Each reacts differently to the blade .

 So my view is that if a person starts out and learns to  do their work on a softer piece of wood  to the point they can produce reasonable results . What they find is when they graduate to a very dense  rock hard  heavy  maple , walnut or cherry ,  the then  are amazed at how clean  their cuts are .
 They have learned  to say  AHHH in need to go slow here  or  here I can  let her run .

 Myself I would say , start with a medium   density wood , like  simply maple  or  very plain  walnut of the same  quality . Something with nice even grain . If you really going to get into this and build from a plank then do yourself a  big favor and do some reading on how to layout  the rifle . Steve tutorial is a very good one . However take it one step farther and learn  to understand   how the grain should run .  Where its acceptable to have figure and where its not . Also read up and learn about the wood you chose . Whats its plus’s and minuses . Basically the characteristics of the wood itself .
 Now I know steve and others  is going to disagree with me here but im going to recommend  walnut , English or black ..
 The reason is that  is most time softer .  Its also  a much more open grained wood . It also likes to split  if you don’t keep your mind about you .
 Thus it forces you to  learn to feel and understand the wood .   One has to keep their  tools sharp  and take their  time, going slow and easy .
 I never have been one  to  know the  easy road . But I can  tell you that by taking the hard road , learning from that hard road , when you find yourself on a easy road , the traveling is   1000X more enjoyable  in every way .

 Nothing , I mean nothing , makes me cringe  more then to see someone with a stock  in a vice ,  at the forstock  and  properly supported at the butt .
 Then using a  mallet to  drive their  chisel  in the inlet  of the lock or  breech .
 Learn to use the chisels and tools you have .  That way when you do  find you a Very nice piece of rock hard wood , your learned skill was will produce a  piece that is  very pleasing to the eye  . Basically a very good example of what you can do

 learn to drive a jeep  or pinto  before you jump into a Lamberdini or mazerati . that way your less likly to find yourself wrapped around a telephone poll on some gravel road  ;)

Offline halfdan

(No subject)
« Reply #5 on: May 17, 2009, 12:20:24 PM »
Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably be going with a pre-carve; ToW has a couple that I really like the shape and style of. I'm wanting a transitional look with a Germanic flavor to it.

Have fun,
Dave
Halfdan
Charter Member #149, Exp. 2/12
http://www.bellandcompanytraders.com
A Tradition for over 1/20th of a century!

Offline Indiana

(No subject)
« Reply #6 on: May 17, 2009, 08:06:57 PM »
I believe Tracks stocks come from Pecatonica, so you may want to check with them first.  I got a real fine deal on a Grade 3 Curly Lancaster stock from Pecatonica.  They will treat you right!
"Damn the sword! When Virginia wanted a sword, I gave her one. Now she sends me a toy when I require bread!” -George Rogers Clark