Your TMA Officers and Board of Directors
Support the TMA! ~ Traditional Muzzleloaders ~ The TMA is here for YOU!
For TMA related products, please check out the new TMA Store !

*** Folk Firearms Collective Videos ***



Changes are a'coming to the TMA website and forum. Please stay tuned!


« previous next »
Pages: [1]

Author Topic: lock plate metal  (Read 3336 times)

Offline JohnN

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 11
lock plate metal
« on: January 31, 2011, 06:57:53 PM »
I'm thinking about trying to make a lock for my Indian made musket. My plan is to copy the current lock plate and then add parts from The Rifle Shoppe. The parts from a lock that is on a gun I just finished compare very closely to the Indian parts . What kind of steel is best and where can I get it. Would need to start with a piece about 7" x 3" and about 1/8" thick.
Logged
Member Number 606
Expires 01/23/2012

Offline pathfinder

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 741
(No subject)
« Reply #1 on: February 01, 2011, 08:08:53 AM »
It's quite and undertaking if it's your first one. I used 1095,(as I was told) and it worked out good. I hardened the area around the tumbler hole as best as a hack gunsmith could and she's still tight after all these years. Siler has a "kit" that has a plate thats not shaped and thats what I use now. Can be altered to darn near any lock and REALLY cuts down on the drilling and fudging around!
Logged
NRA life member
NMLRA

Offline LRB

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 137
(No subject)
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2011, 05:47:51 PM »
How will you attach the pan? Weld?
Logged

Captchee

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2011, 07:06:03 PM »
solder, braze or you can do as most modern locks do and  hockit over the plate . then screw it
Logged

Offline JohnN

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 11
(No subject)
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2011, 07:20:47 PM »
I had a French 1728 lock from TRS that I never used. The pan is not seperate so I cut it off and fit it on the copied lock plate. It is held in place by a screw in back and the frizzen screw in front. Have not decided whether I will weld it on or not. Seems to be ok the way it is. Have installed all the parts except for the mainspring which I am waiting for from TRS. After that I will test and then harden those parts that need it. Will post some pics when done. Would be nice if I could find the Saint-Etienne stamp for it.
Logged
Member Number 606
Expires 01/23/2012

Offline Kermit

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 421
  • TMA: 3/21/17 ~ 3/21/18
  • TMA Member: 393
(No subject)
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2011, 08:45:59 PM »
I'm sort of partial to brass (bronze) lockplates. Jim Chambers told me that all of their locks can be had so equipped. Sure easier to work than steel, and you could tell the story that it had to be replaced, and this was quicker/easier/cheaper. You choose the story.....
Logged
"Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly."
Mae West

Member Number 393

Offline LRB

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 137
(No subject)
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2011, 05:27:17 PM »
Bronze would not be correct for his needs, and if brass or bronze, they should be steel bushed in the tumbler hole.
Logged

Captchee

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2011, 08:28:56 PM »
alot of the lieg work to include ribs on sxs were brazed
excpecialy later work
Logged

Offline B.Habermehl

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6
Re: lock plate metal
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2011, 08:02:04 PM »
Mild steel will due for you just fine and be easier to work with. Then case harden the working surfaces with casenit. This will yeild a slick functioning lock if you fit and polish every slideing or turning surface well. Mild steel=1018. I made a new lock plate to fit the mortice on a origional antique and used siler parts for the restoration of the missing lock.   BJH
Logged
Pages: [1]
« previous next »