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Author Topic: Started my Lancaster today, have a MORE question 5-27-09  (Read 9931 times)

Online Hank in WV

  • TMA Contributing Member
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  • TMA Member: Charter Member #65
(No subject)
« Reply #30 on: March 26, 2009, 10:02:38 PM »
Alittle hint with wood screws. Rub a little candle wax or bar soap in the threads. Makes it much easier to run them in.
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Hank in WV
TMA Charter Member #65, exp 4/30/2026
"Much of the social history of the western world over the past three decades has involved replacing what worked with what sounded good. . ." Thomas Sowell

Offline pintail_drake2004

(No subject)
« Reply #31 on: April 11, 2009, 03:30:45 PM »
Hello gents, sorry i havent been around much i was just released from the Hospital and ICU.

I finally got to hobble around and work on my rifle a bit today and started the nose cap for my gun. I have never paid much attention to this on a finished gun but was wondering if any of yall could please post a few pictures of what they look like when finished (from a few angles) i would really appreciate it.

Thank you
Jordan
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Offline James Kelly

(No subject)
« Reply #32 on: April 13, 2009, 11:07:44 AM »
Bolts produced on an automatic screw machine are normally made of 12L14.

Same thing as used for most muzzle loading barrels, by the way.

In modern times the word 'steel" is used not only for rather soft stuff, like nails, but also for hardenable metal, such as used in hammers, knives, springs, files, etc.

If you want bolts that won't shear off like a piece of sharp cheese (read that 12L14) they need to be made of some higher carbon material, and/or heat treated.

Personally I do not know what is commonly available in strong bolts suitable for lock bolts.
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if the ball is not rammed close on the powder. . .frequently cause the barrel to burst

Captchee

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #33 on: April 13, 2009, 03:46:29 PM »
i dont think he is talking about lock bolts , james . more to the screws that hold the  but plates on and such
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Offline pintail_drake2004

(No subject)
« Reply #34 on: May 27, 2009, 05:57:44 PM »
Hey gents i have a few more questions for ya. I am about to put in the inlays along the forestock but not quite sure where to position them. My book shows a drawing of one inletted, but as for how far apart... i was thinking 1 ever 1/3 of the forestock correct? And i will do the carving on this stock-maybe-and was wondering if acanthus leaves would be pc?
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Captchee

  • Guest
(No subject)
« Reply #35 on: May 27, 2009, 11:24:02 PM »
yep what steve said . the pins  pins or key's go through them
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