Making 18th and 19th Century Gun Powder

[KDubs]

https://youtu.be/j6BEYtz5XHQ?si=IJmSAoW_rJvmsynb
 So Jake has modified his pressing methods.  Guess I didn't need to spend 350$ on a new 20 ton press and pucking die.
This more aligns with Terry on the times gone tech videos where he uses a C clamp to press his powder
 I made a few of the " new" pucks and they are quite hard , ground up a little bit and open air tested it, very fast.
 As soon as I get time I'll test it thru the Chrono and compare it to my older powder from the over pressed method.
Stand by for news!

Kevin

[Rob DiStefano]

I had a 20 ton press, what a pain.  I ditched that for a 1 ton press and experienced no difference in powder quality.  My process pretty much parallels Terry's.

[KDubs]

I hear ya, live and learn.
 Eric went out and got a 20 ton press and rockysworks pucking die too.
 Wish I'd stuck with Terry's method from the get go but I'm sure that press will sell when garage sale season comes along. 
 Kevin

[Rob DiStefano]

I have a Rocky's puck die, too big, never even bothered to use it.

I use this one ...

 [ Invalid Attachment ]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/135023497542

[Second-rate Marksman]

Kind of a bummer to have spent hundreds of dollars on equipment at Jake's urging only to find that it's now unnecessary and obsolete, but he's experimenting and learning as he goes, just as we all are.

I've screened powder in the past with decent results, though I had to double my powder charges to achieve comparable velocities as commercial powder. Like I was explaining to Kevin... who really cares if it requires extra powder, though, when you can make the stuff at such a very small fraction of what you'd pay for the commercial equivalent. It's inconsequential, if you ask me. This is how it was done up until the late 1700's, so it ought to be good enough for you and I, right?

I've got quite a bit of Pyrodex from when I was first introduced to muzzleloading. I'm seriously considering using the stuff in my fowler cartridges, with a 10/15 grain "booster" charge of holy black sitting on top of the cartridge, and priming the pan with my priming horn. Thought perhaps I might be able to make my existing black powder go farther this way, although I'm fully aware of the drawbacks.

[Rob DiStefano]

Yup the chemicals and tooling components to make really good holy black are cheap 'n' easy.

Terry's giant "C" clamp produces really GOOD powder - there's really no need to jump through hoops and empty big dollars for what can be made for a fraction of the commercial cost.

I can fully understand any newbie concerns - I was there too, big time - it's not as complicated or dangerous as one erroneously thinks. 

Making the holy black is far less dangerous than not clearing out a bbl that's just been shot and immediately dumping down a full measure of powder - now THAT is scary stuff! 

[Salty]

Rob, where do you buy the powders? Does the fineness of the powder make a difference?
about the charcoal, Ive read that the source of the charcoal can make a big difference too. What do you use? where do you get it?
I think it's time to start making my own.
Thanks!

[Rob DiStefano]

Do a search for firework chemicals.  I use Skylighter but there are others.

YES, the finer the 3 three powders the better.

Charcoal is THE key ingredient.

The 3 powders are hygroscopic and they MUST be kept as DRY as possible.  I run each chemical for a few hours in a food dehydrator and then Mason jar each separately.

A basic way to make black powder is ...

Get good chemicals that are "air loft" fine and dry.
There are a few different formulas for potassium nitrate (KNO3)/charcoal/sulfur, 75/15/10 is the original, some use 77/13/10, all by weight.
Tumble the 3 chemicals with lead or brass ball media for 12 or 24 or 48 hours - the Harbor Freight rock tumbler is what most use, tumbling 1/2lb (making 1/2lb of black powder).
Mix the results with a small amount of water, 4%-10%, to form a dough-like ball.
There are 2 ways to create powder granules using that dough ball - scrape the ball through a 20 mesh screen and allow the kernels to dry or compress the granules into pucks.
When thoroughly DRY, the 20 mesh screened powder will be about 2F or a bit coarser, What's left can be 50 mesh screened for 3F or finer.
When the pucks are are thoroughly dry they're put into a grain grater that will produce granules that can be screened for size.
Any and all kernels produced by screening can now be "glazed" - take that dry powder and tumble it without media for a few hours - glazing will greatly improve powder "flow".

Religiously review the videos in this thread!

[KDubs]

Watch the video in my last post on Jake's new pressing recommendation and watch some of his ( everything black powder) or terry ( times gone tech ) videos on the proper mix ratios and you should be fine.
 And follow what Rob says too, good luck and post your progress.
 We're here to help, just like the government 
Kevin

[dmarsh]

So will this work for the charcoal part?

Hmmm--not working right.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D7XPNDQ6/?coliid=I2NEZ3U730S0GR&colid=1DWGN8KA1YJ8C&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Tried to post a picture of it but could not.  The link works.

[Rob DiStefano]

So will this work for the charcoal part?

Hmmm--not working right.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D7XPNDQ6/?coliid=I2NEZ3U730S0GR&colid=1DWGN8KA1YJ8C&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Tried to post a picture of it but could not.  The link works.

Waste of money, you want this ... https://www.skylighter.com/collections/chemicals/products/charcoal-airfloat

[KDubs]

Smokehouse All Natural Alder Wood Smoking Chips 242 cu in Mfr# FK71 - Ace Hardware https://share.google/1Hn0tw3kpC52vFuxj
 
 I use this and Make my own charcoal, easy enough.
Kevin

[dmarsh]

Thanks guys.  Appreciate it.