FWIW; After looking closely at the OP picture, and noting where that sight is and how far it's set back, and how the rib is cut even to the Barrel, I am almost convinced that Barrel was cut, and then dovetailed for that sight, either for the eyes of the shooter, or to be used with a particular false muzzle, but even then a crown is needed.
And, T/C, to the best of my knowledge, has never used that type of front sight, and the rib ends just before the end of the Barrel.
Perhaps they have used such a sight, but over the years I have never seen it, and I've seen a few of them.
Years ago, my shop once carried Warranty Service for T/C in Lakewood, Colorado.....but they mainted an outside Warranty for only a few years, back in the 1990's. They then decided it was more cost efficient for their own factory to do the work.
Now, having said all that, I have to insure you that this can mean absolutely nothing, within itself.
However, as was mentioned by LD, and greyhunter, not having a properly crowned Barrel can definitely lead to flyers when shooting...unless you use a false muzzle constantly, even for cleaning.
Hanshi described one method, and it works quite well.
I would suggest using a Ballistic Brass Plumb, or BBP, on your power drill...using it lightly, evenly, and with very little pressure.
This fancy sounding name of BBP is nothing more than a funnel shaped piece of brass with an end that fits a 3/8" drill.
There are other methods that work with varying degrees of success, and this magic number of 11 degrees is not carved in stone, as it was simply a "best guess" by none other than P.O.Ackley, sometime back in the early 1940's, and picked as an Industry Standard.
Not because it was "magic" in anyway, but because it worked.
Prior to that, Barrels were "crowned at an angle", that angle being whatever looked good to the builder, and there were some very accurate rifle rifles prior to the 1940's!
Frankfurt Arsenal once used a 17 degree angle on some of their rifles and found , "there was no notable difference in accuracy".
Why all the fuss about the crown?
Because the crown, or the very end of the Barrel is the LAST thing the projectile touches, be it a patched ball, or a conical.
The escaping gases MUST exit the Barrel evenly, in fact, absolutely evenly or the projectile will "yaw" or lean to the opposing side of the damaged area, causing the projectile to strike high, or low, left, or right.
Most crown damage comes from using the wiping stick, and not from dings received while in use, however that too can happen. Once it starts, gas cutting will progressively make it worse.
I, by no means, want to discourage you. What I would like to see is the next picture showing some semblance of a crown, done by you...it easy, very easy. Crocus Cloth, 200 grit sand paper, followed by 400 should shine right nicely, even just using your finger.
Still yet, no one can over empathize the importance of a properly crowned muzzle....and, properly crowned simply translates to "even, all the way around".
Uncle Russ...