Stock finish finished. now what ?

[Rick Villerot]

I finished my stock today, I used a mix of fieblings black & brown. I had a test piece of wood & it looked good so I started on the stock- WOW it was alot darker, but I like it.

So then I steele wooled it & have been  laying the linsead oil to it. When is enough - enough & how do you get that shiny patina ?

Tung oil ? I read on a previous post from Captchee that tung oil seals the stock & prevent's fading ?

Any input is appreciated...

[Captchee]

Good morning . Linseed by itself isn’t a very good sealer . Only about 10% impervious  to moisture  .  Because of this , you can stain through  linseed .

Tung by itself is to good of a sealer ,. Close to 90% impervious to moisture . Because of this , its very hard to get a  stain through Tung oil

 So by placing a couple light coats of tung over your linseed , you  get the sealing properties of the Tung oil but  the ability to repair  if you ever need to as the linseed holds the tung from  penetrating the wood . But at the same times , the Tung bonds very tightly to the  linseed . So it will not flake or peel
 The tung will also provide you with a shine that can be dulled back  if you like.

 I cant say that Tung oil will prevent fading . You will notice the figure  pop even more then what you have now . It will also define it more .
 But with all of that , it also has a tendency to darken a bit

[Riley/MN]

What you have sure looks nice Rick. Keep us posted with the final stages!

[FG1]

After heavy linseed application you will most likely have to wait several weeks with stock in warm place to let linseed oil either soak in or leech out and be wiped off before tung oil is applied .

Looks really good !!

[Gordon H.Kemp]

This just my theory , but I've been putting a linseed oil finish on the stocks I do for better then 50 years. I guess the bigest difference between the way most others do it then me , is I use RAW linseed oil for the first several coats and then put several coats of boiled on. The RAW will penetratedeeper into the wood then the boiled , dings and scrapes don't show up as much this process. As to the surface anti moisture finish , in most cases I use a hard wax and lots of rubbing.

[Captchee]

its not that linseed doesn’t penetrate , it does . but its  very open poured so it allows   moisture  to pass in and out of the stock .
 no difference with boiled linseed .
 in so many words  its just been concentrated  IE less thinners and more driers being added . but its still linseed .

 i also wax even over Tung .  why , because Tung is only 90% impervious .   a good Carnauba  wax takes care of that

[Gordon H.Kemp]

I've  never tried Tung oil , the next time I finish a stock I'll give it a try , never to old to learn  Hope you are feeling better seems like theres always a new "bug" going around.

[FG1]

Gordy, thats similar to what I so . I thin the blo with 1/2 mineral spirits several coats then go straight blo a few coats then with an 1" of blo in pint jar add a lump of beeswax 3/8" in dia. melted in a pan of water . While still pretty warm rubb a bit in with heel of hand . Couple apps of that will make it pretty water resistant and easy to dress up after an outing as needed.

[Gordon H.Kemp]

FGI , I too cut the first raw linseed coats with a little turpintine  and do the wax the same way. I also think hand rubbing makes for a little better job. The bigest problem is you smell like turp , and linseed oil till the stock is done and some time after!