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Author Topic: Inletting Barrel and tang Question  (Read 1050 times)

Offline Hood

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Inletting Barrel and tang Question
« on: July 05, 2010, 03:31:26 PM »
I'm hoping someone can help answer a few questions for me and my father. I have asked him to build the gun for me. I have also attached a photo and need to know how much of the wood is to be removed. I don't believe the wood needs to be removed all the way down to the flats on the barrel? I have looked at several pictures and still can not figure it out. Also at the same time or at least before I do that I must inlet the tang into the stock. Still thinking on how long to leave the Tang and weather to round it off or leave square. I have seen it both ways. Maybe some one will have some good pictures of that area to show us.
Thanks

Offline LRB

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« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2010, 06:00:58 PM »
The surface of the tang should be flat across. The rear edge for 18th c. should be square, or shaped with small squared shoulders, then a spear point or elongated roundish tip, or pointed tip. This can depend on which type of rifle you'rer making. The square is very common, and easier to inlet. You must bend it to fit the profile of the wood however. You can leave it proud from the wood and file it down to the wood, but you will want no less than 1/8" of thickness left,  and around 3/16", or even a tad more would be better. You will also need to bevel the tang if it is not already beveled. Not a drastic bevel, but a very noticable bevel. This allows for better fitting. The rear edge can be slightly beveled, or not, but it is good to have a very small gap between it and the wood. Maybe around .005, or just a tad more. This gap will help to prevent the wood from chipping from recoil pressures, unless you intend to glassbed the breech and tang area. That is heresy to some, but SOP to others. There are pros, and cons. Glassbedding is certainly not PC, but it does make for a perfect bed which can, I repeat, can, make for better accuracy, and protects the wood from oils, water, and solvents. Done right, it is invisible unless the barrel is removed. That's your call.

Offline butterchurn

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« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2010, 06:54:26 PM »
At this point you want to bend the tang to match the profile of the stock.  How long is the tang?  There are great builders on this Forum who can give you fabulous advice.
Butterchurn
Member # 249
Exp. 07/12/10

Set your course by the stars, not by the lights of every passing ship.
General Omar N. Bradley

Offline Captchee

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« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2010, 09:11:39 AM »
well the guys pretty much answered your tang question , so ill answer your first question ..  i would add that the final shape of your tang  depends . by late 18th century there were alot of shaping happening past just the square end .


the rifle your building , dictates  how the stock meets the barrel .
  The she shoulder of the stock , along the tang  should come down to the  45 deg , flat  of the barrel .
 Now plan this out . Make sure you have your side plate  marked . With some  you have to rise up over the top lock bolt and then come back down .
 Now on the side flat . how this transitions ,  again depends on the rifle  and maker . Some rifles the wood  shoulders and almost cradles the breech  along this flat . on others the  transition is more back  then  forewords. This is seen  on a lot of fowlers  
 ohotos curtesy of  ALRA

John ARMSTRONG


SAM BAUM


FIGTHORN



Offline Hood

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« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2010, 01:18:03 PM »
Thanks very much for all the replies.

Can anyone post photos in the same view that I have shown?

Thanks Again!