Rifle sights?

[prairie dog]

I need some wisdom concerning rifle sights.  

I haven't yet landed on a set of primitive open sights that I like.  I had a Lyman rear peep and globe front sight on my GPR while I was developing loads and wringing out the rifle.  It worked very well for hunting and target matches but isn't allowed in rendezvous shoots.  I need a non-adjustable sight system that will work for match target shooting and be acceptable for rendezvous.

The front sights that came with the GPR are too wide for target work.  Black sights don't show up against the black bull on paper targets, silver blades don't show up against the white part of the paper.  I've settled on a dull brass blade as easiest for me to see on black and white targets.

My present problem is that I don't think I have my rear sight set up correctly.  I seam to cut my notch too wide and I feel it is causing me to throw some shots left and right.

Is there a formula to help match the width of the blade to the correct width of the notch in the rear sight?

How much daylight do you want to see inside the rear sight when the blade is centered?  

How deep do you like the notch or how much of the blade do you want to see?

How do you shape the back of the blade?  I've heard some like a 45 degree angle on the top of the blade and some say they like to have the blade undercut at an angle.

I have tried Buck-horn, semi buck-horn, and flat top rear sights.  Each work well enough for rendezvous shooting but I don't know yet which is better for the target match shooting I am doing.  If there is an advantage in buck-horn sights I haven't discovered it yet.

How tall do you want your sight to be above the barrel?

Do any of you know someone who custom makes good rifle sights?

I know that's a bunch of questions but I am not finding much wisdom concerning primitive sights.  

Help!

[rollingb]

Those are good questions Prairie Dog,.....

I can only give you my personal opinions on which sights work best for me.
I like a narrow (browned) iron blade front sight,... because, brass or silver (round or cut to 45 degrees) on sunny days result in too much "glare" when I'm aiming, and that (for me) does not result in good sight-definition when aiming at paper targets.
Cloudy days,... the  silver and brass sights do work "okay" for me.

A personal observation regarding under-cut brass or silver front sights,... they can "snag on things".
A bunch of years ago (1970's), I had an under-cut front sight put a long deep bloody groove in my hand while hunting. I quit using undercut sights after that.

I've finally settled on (browned) narrow bladed iron sights for ALL my rifles.  :rt th  

Rear-sights,...... I personally prefer a rear sight (either buckhorn or flat top) with a notch-depth of about .075",.... and just wide enough to allow a "sliver of daylight" to show on ether side of the iron front sight when I'm aiming.

HTH

[gunmaker]

What rollingb said.  If glare on silver or brass fnt. site is a problem on sunny days a blk. magic marker will stop that.  We used to smoke our sites when range shooting in USMC.  Rear site placement is critical for site picture.  Move rear site back & forth on Bbl until it comes into focus.  Put it right there.  A notch just slightly wider than the width of fnt site gives the least chance of side to side shot placement....Tom

[Uncle Russ]

What Tom and Rondo said..........
You only want enough light around the rear sight to let you know it is indeed dead centered.
As far as how far forward that rear sight goes is totally dependent on your personal eye sight. You do want it to be clear as a bell.

Glare is certainly a problem for many.
"Smoking" the sight with real smoke, or actually real soot, is the only answer that has proven totally reliable over many years.
Magic Markers are a great quick fix, but if your front sight is smooth, and not steeped, you can still get a little bit of glare even from that.

Old Zippo lighters works better than modern day matches, a "Beeswax" candle, held away from the sight so the soot from the wick will form, works even better than a Zippo.

I once had a "sight-black" can I used to use, and it held 1/3 cup of kerosene with 1/2 tsp motor oil added.
It was ugly, dirty, messy, and totally reliable.
Of course "sight-black" is extremely fragile, touch it with a cloth, a patch, your sleeve, whatever, and it's gone.....however, it's still rated as the best.

Uncle Russ...

[Hanshi]

You can always make the rear notch to suit you.  I like the standard front blade.  It doesn't matter to me if steel or brass or silver; I always paint the front white so it will pick up enough sight in the dark woods.  I've also blackened a few in the past when that was needed.

[Fletcher]

What these fine gents have said.  Although I like the look of the buckhorn and the bead on the
post front sight, I have found these to have a bit too much 'play' for me.  On a couple guns that
I have for events that do not allow adjustable sights, I changed them to straight notch rear sight
and straight blade front site.  There is almost no daylight from front to back and the sights are
dead level at 50 yards.

If adjustable are allowed, I am very happy with the stock TC sights.

[sse]

straight notch rear sight and straight blade front site.

My favorite.  I hate bead and buckhorns, especially with a rounded notch, very little point of reference of where to consistently put the front site.  Rondo must have known that somehow before he sent me that rifle gun...

[rollingb]

straight notch rear sight and straight blade front site.

My favorite.  I hate bead and buckhorns, especially with a rounded notch, very little point of reference of where to consistently put the front site.  Rondo must have known that somehow before he sent me that rifle gun...

The sights I put on "The Swan",.... are what I've used on 95% of the "rifles" I've built over the last 40 years, and I've never heard a complaint.  :rt th