lapping a barrel with steel wool

[edmundreiss1]

My lyman trade flintlock 50 cal. is cutting my patches from the rifling in the bore. Is it possible to lap the barrel with 000 steel wool to get rid of the sharp rifling?

[Two Steps]

Yes sir you can...just don't get carried away and mess up the muzzle.  You could also try putting scouring powder...Ajax or whatever...on damp patches, wrap 'em around some round balls...send 'em down range and see if that helps.
How many rounds have you put down range with that bbl?  Some barrels need more shooting to smooth out than others.
Al

[rollingb]

Everything Al said.  :rt th  :rt th

[edmundreiss1]

thanks two step, I edmundreiss1 appreciate the help! I shoot a .490 roundball now, would you reccomend a .490?

[edmundreiss1]

sorry about previous message, i meant a .495 roudball instead of .490

[Two Steps]

You can/should use which ever one gives your rifle the best results.  If you have not put many balls through this barrel, just plain 'ol shootin' could solve the problem.  You didn't mention what kind of patch you are using, and the thickness.
FWIW, I have a GPR that cut so many patches I finally named it Patch Eater!!  Cut patches and all...it still put the RB on target (when I did my part   ) so I didn't much worry about it. If it's bothering you...you can use the steel wool...again, be careful not to mess up your crown.  The scouring powder works too (I think I got that from Uncle Russ some years back).  Just lube up your patch...put the powder on it...and then just push your RB down as usual.
Good luck...let us know how things go.
Al

[Fort Greene Ville]

If you would like to try a little less aggressive approach; take a snug fitting wet patch and apply the old plain white type tooth paste.
Tooth paste is an ultra fine polishing compound And washes out with water. There's also a more aggressive water base lapping compound (for engine valves) made by Loctite.
Main thing is take it slow!!    Adjusting the pressure by layers of patches and jag combinations (45cal in 50cal)

Just some thoughts to ponder.

[edmundreiss1]

I tried the steel wool(00) carefully, and finished the barrel off with some toothpaste. What a difference!  I'm using a .490 hornady roundball and a .020 oxyoke patch with 70 g of ffg. My patches aren't cut up and my loads are so much easier to put down the barrel! Accuracy improved also! Thanks for your help Two Steps, Fort Greene Ville!

[Loyalist Dave]

I seriously doubt that the abrasives in tooth paste did anything for you....tooth enamel is much softer than steel, so if it doesn't destroy enamel...

Steel wool works to take of some burrs that may have formed during the cutting process, as do small pieces of "green scrubbie" pot scrubber, found in the dish washing aisle at the super market.  Since the wool itself is not as hard as the barrel steel it will leave the lands and grooves alone, but will not do well for seriously sharp land edges.

For a seriously rough barrel one can try cloth with a jag and valve lapping compound.  

Since the steel wool worked it sounds like you had one or more tiny burrs.  

LD

[blackpowderbill]

I stopped using steel wool it leaves to many fines that rust as soon as you look at them
Remove the breech plug if you can
Use Scotch Brite pads cut in sections ,round like a patch so it fits over a smaller jag . tight enough to fit the bore since you want the patch to follow the rifling twist
I made up a jag that has rubber washers on either side of the pad. Many times I'll use a leather washer and fine lapping compound.
Mark you rod so you travel the full lenght of the bore
Use a muzzle protector ,bore guide
Use a good heavy oil
Run the pad in and out 100 times
Clean
Go shoot and see how the patches look
Remember you may be shooting to tight a patch ball combination

Bronze wool works  well also
Here is a link to 3M
Scotch-Brite™ Abrasives

As stated previously shooting a 100 or so shots will also clean up the rifling edges

[stobey]

I second the use of lapping compound.  I have used it on my Sharps with jag and lapping compound on cleaning patches. Worked well and clean up with water is easy.

If you can remove the breech that would make things even easier.

Steve

[Three Hawks]

Back in the dark ages my TC Hawken .50 developed a nasty spot about 13" from the muzzle where a patched ball required many vile words and a hefty rock to get past it when loading.  A buddy of mine recommended a tight wet patch on the cleaning jag and a small dose of fine valve grinding compound run up and down the bore until the resistance in the whole bore felt the same. I did it once, accuracy improved and loading got a great deal easier.  I've never had to do it again.  My working load is 75 gr. 3F under a .490 RB in a .018 cotton ticking patch lubed with good ol' lard.

I bought a used TC Hawken .45 barrel at a gun show for pocket change.  It was (is) a bit pitted and would throw a 10" pattern at 50 yds.  I gave it the same valve grinding love and that barrel simmered right down and started behaving itself.  Now I don't know which one I like better, the .50 or the .45.

I love problems like that, I really do.

Three Hawks

[prairie dog]

I have used JB bore paste with good results.  It is less aggressive than other polishing compounds so it takes longer and more elbow grease but it produces a very smooth, polished bore.

[blackpowderbill]

I stopped using steel wool long ago. Found it leaves tiny bits of steel in the bores, actually on anything you use it on. Went to Scotch Brite, lapping compounds, pumice mixed in oil or grease on leather, bronze wool.