a "shoed" ramrod

[RobD]

built a few new ramrods for the .40 flinter using 5/16" hickory and brass 10-32 ferrules at one end for cleaning jags and the other actual ramming end i drilled in a 1/16" hole, punched out a 5/16" disc from 1/16" brass, drilled a 1/16" hole in the disc, and used a 1/16" brass brad, along with wicked-in CYA, to "shoe" the disc to the business end of the rod.  for one of the rods i used a 3/8" slip-on ferrule for a 5/16" diameter rod - it'll pass through a .40 bore and this might prove to be a faster way to build a good ramrod by not having to tenon the ferrule end of the rod.  hope to try these out one day this week.

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[Uncle Russ]

You're definitely a pretty handy fella!
Looking forward to hearing about your results.
 

Uncle Russ...
Got Raffle Tickets??

[Ohio Joe]

Good thinking Rob. Interested to hear your Range test results. 

[RobD]

as a loading rod, i expect this to work just fine, but as a cleaning rod, i don't expect this to work well because the shoed end has little area for finger grasping purchase, to twirl the rod and pull it out - that'd take a pair of pliers and probably damage the wood.

back to the drawing board ...

a 3/32" hole that's 3/4" down from the shoed tip (to clear the internal brass brad) should allow the passage of a common nail to give great leverage to the rod.  wicking in water thin CYA to that hole should immensely toughen the hickory, as well. (or maybe bush it with a brass tubing?)

next up, i'll attempt to build a better mousetrap using toothpicks, sewing thread, and sealing wax.    

[Ohio Joe]

I've noticed over the years (as I'm sure many of you have as well), some folks will have their ramrod sticking out a few inches longer beyond the muzzle. Myself, I've never had a ramrod extend that far out from its seat in the stock. When building my own stocks I normally try to go a little longer with the ramrod hole for a little more length, but I've never tried a longer one (ramrod) that set beyond the muzzle when seated and stored. I always just assumed the powder would harm a ramrod that stuck out to far from the muzzle.

Anyone have any experience with an extra long ramrod store under their rifle when shooting? If so, tell us about it and if the ramrod gets damaged from the muzzle blast. 

[RobD]

oh yeah, 3" and sometimes longer, mostly the brass ferrule and brass jag.  never had any issues.  since i don't flip the rod for ramming, the jag is rarely used.  lately i've just been leaving the jag off and in the pouch, and the ferrule is either flush with, or out less than an inch beyond the muzzle.  i'm getting more into rods with one ferrule, as indicated in this thread, but all my other rods have dual ferrules which allows using both ends with jags, for added extension and leverage if, say, i need some help with a dreaded dry ball.     

[Bigsmoke]

Anyone have any experience with an extra long ramrod store under their rifle when shooting? If so, tell us about it and if the ramrod gets damaged from the muzzle blast. 

When I built the ramrod for my 20 Bore Light American Sporting Rifle I had the rod about even with the muzzle, then the jag on it stuck out past the muzzle.  As I have probably mentioned before I ran a target load of 135 grains of GOEX FFG and my get very serious load was 200 grains of Ffg.  Somewhere back I noticed that the rod tip had started to buckle a little bit from the force of the muzzleblast.  That was about where I had pinned the rod tip onto the rod, IIRC.  I might have a photo of it somewhere.  If I can find it I will post it.  Else, yer imagination can do.

Other than that, I have always had rods that ended right at the muzzle.

[Hank in WV]

Including loading jag, mine is out about 2". After untold shots, it's unaffected by muzzle blast. Years ago I did break one loading the rifle into the truck when I caught it on the doorpost so I guess there are drawbacks.