Lyman GPR initial impressions from a new (older) guy

[PetahW]

Welcome to the site!  How did you season the barrel without shooting it?  Just curious...

Thanks,
~Kees~

Maybe not what everyone considers "seasoning" but I just get the barrel real warm with boiling water (after a thorough cleaning) and soak the bore with a non-petroleum lube (bore-butter).  No scientific evidence, but I think it helps.

Welcome to TMA  !

No scientific evidence, but no BS - it's worked for me. 

I seasoned my rifle with BB when I first got it in 1985, and it still doesn't have a spot of rust on/in it.

When done with a day's shooting, I simply flushed the bore & ignition channel with Moose Milk (T/C #10 bore cleaner), then ran multiple dry patches to dry the bore, finishing up with a light coat of BB on a loose patch B 4 storing the gun until the next time.

I also used the last finishing patch (with the BB) to wipe down all the external metal surfaces - no, the metal wasn't shiny, but then it never rusted either.


BTW, I also had a flintlock A&H Mountain Rifle that had ignition time to rival a metallic cartridge rifle's - surprising me a LOT !

.

[Mad Irish Jack]

The lock time improves with use. You can help by putting a high polishing on the friction bearing moving parts. I had an Armsport Hawken in the late 1970's and early '80's that I polished the lock parts with a jewelers extra fine diamond file and 800 and 1200 wet sanding paper. I don't know if they still make the 1200 grit. You could try an auto parts store. I used the wet sanding paper with low viscosity oil which is almost as runny as water. You don't want to take off metal as much as just lightly smooth polish it. Do both sides, only along the contact area of BOTH pieces that rub together. I use graphite as a lube. Oil does slow due to viscosity and is affected by temperatures, If graphite gets, wet it dry quick and cakes but breaks apart with action of the parts and keeps lubing. You need to watch as it does require upkeep. I was informed on this by a now deceased metallurgist and master gunsmith in PA.

[RobD]

i wish some folks would just hearken to how guns were cared for back in the day.  they'd see that all the concoctions and chemicals that are touted by legions are just not necessary and, in the long run, will do more harm than good.

as to the lock, it will usually pay dividends to take it completely apart and level the the lock plate (with a file), then put it all back together and sparsely oil all moving pivot point parts, then screw it back to the gun's lock mortise.

it would do us all good to attend to our firearms as soon as possible and not procrastinate.  this is the absolute best thing one can do with regards to gun maintenance.  in doing so, dihydrogen monoxide (plain tepid tap water) will be your best friend, and your gun's, too.  again, there is no need to affront your gun with harsh chemicals!  use water and water soluble oil.  this will make everyone - gun and shooter - very happy campers in the long run.  promise.