I hate patent breech plugs - another kit build ...

[Winter Hawk]

Looking good there, Rob!  I may have to get one of those triggers myself for the Hodgepodge rifle.  Incidentally, the Lyman GPRs I have had both had issues with the trigger adjustment screw; the "fix" is to get a longer one.  It's a metric thread, and I don't remember where I got mine but you might try that next time.

~Kees~

[RobD]

It's a wonderful DST, high quality in terms of materials, build, and function,  Both the set and fire trigger adjustments are smooth and easy.  In comparison, the supplied Investarms trigger adjustments are almost nil and both set and fire screws are near frozen in the cast metal DST frame. 

The L&R T5 DST does take a fair amount of fitting work that will at least require bobbing its tail for about 1/2" or so, rounding it off with files, and drilling a 1/8" hole in what's left of that end for the wood screw to secure it to the stock.  I've got it in the stock now, held in by the trigger guard, and the DST is quite smooth and the set let off is just about a pound or less for the L&R RPL05 lock that's been stoned and oiled.  What's up next is to do a bit more inlet work for the DST body and grind in a slight shelf its front end to better slip under the front foot of the trigger guard.  The trigger rout in the stock also needs to be plugged at its end so that I can drill a new hole for the new DST rear hold down screw.

This should be one fine half stock rifle when she's all done up purty ... well, 'cept for that damn patent breech   

 

[RobD]

The DST mortise needed to filled and redrilled to accept the DST rear screw, so I shaped and glued in with epoxy a walnut filler.  After curing, the filler required further adjusting with a sharp chisel.  With the DST bobbed in the rear and 1/8" drilled for the hold-down screw, and the front end stepped down wind a grinder and file to accept the trigger guard's front shoe, it fits well into it's mortise.  Next up is to remove the lock, trigger guard, DST, barrel, and shape the stock's proud walnut wood to meet the furniture using rasps files, abrasives and scrapers, then smooth it all out to 320 grit, apply a dark walnut stain, wick in water thin CYA to all areas that will be exposed to BP residue, then clear coat the stock with Tru-Oil.  Getting there ...

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[RobD]

Wood staining done. I used my favorite brand, Laurel Mountain Forge, one wipe of walnut, another over that with nut brown, and a final wipe of walnut, overnight drying for each coat. I'll pull off the breach plug, butt and toe plates, and begin wiping on Tru-Oil. I also made new ramrods using TOTW hickory 3/8" rods, stained with LMF Colonial Maple and then Tru-Oiled - I added epoxied and pinned brass ferrules (try and find the pins - nope, ya can't!). I leave the ramming ends of the rods plain but I slightly concave them and wick in water thin CYA to harden. In fact, before clear coating the stock, I'll wick in CYA to the lock mortise, breach plug mortise, and the entire bbl channel - this super seals the wood against BP mitigation. I had some American walnut left over from a lap steel fretboard build that I turned into a ball board - love me them speed loader ball boards!

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[Winter Hawk]

Looking good!  Tons better than the almost black stain which Lyman puts on.  Nice RRs also! 

~Kees~

[RobD]

While the progression of clear coats go on the stock, with a coat in the early morning and one in the late evening, time between is spent on the barrel.

After wrapping the ignition end of the barrel with tape to protect, I use special octagon clamping cauls to vise the barrel tight.  A witness mark is scratched across the breech plug and barrel, to be used to realign the plug when it gets put back on.  A special wrench "nut" is slipped over the breech plug and a large Reed Corp wrench does the unscrewing deed.  Investarms plugs come off fairly easy with the right tools.

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There's always a lot of residue left after the manufacturer proofs the barrel ...

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Which gets cleaned out with the help of Ballistol for both the plug and barrel ...

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The touch hole line is screwed in and checked inside the patent breech flue - a bit of the end protrudes, it's removed and about 1/16" is filed off the end and is reinserted using Nikal anti-seize lube.  The breech plug is screwed back onto the barrel after getting lubed with Nikal.  All ready for firing once the gun is assembled.

[RobD]

All new and way too shiny for a hunting gun, but it'll be easy to rub it down with 0000 steel wool and then buff with beeewax for a hunter matte finish, once the the finish fully cures in a few days. Other than that, got the lock timing down smooth and fast, very light trigger pull after the set trigger is pulled, so she's ready to load 'n' fire.

[Bigsmoke]

All new and way too shiny for a hunting gun

Boy, howdy, it sure is all of that.  Almost need sun glasses to look at it.

With the curve in the top ramrod, you would not ever need to worry about it falling out of the thimbles.

It sure looks like you did a great job on the rifle with the updates and all.  Quite anxious to read all about the range trip.  If it shoots half as good as it looks, you will have a shooter on your hands.

John (Bigsmoke)

[RobD]

All new and way too shiny for a hunting gun

Boy, howdy, it sure is all of that.  Almost need sun glasses to look at it.

With the curve in the top ramrod, you would not ever need to worry about it falling out of the thimbles.

It sure looks like you did a great job on the rifle with the updates and all.  Quite anxious to read all about the range trip.  If it shoots half as good as it looks, you will have a shooter on your hands.

John (Bigsmoke)

The "bent ramrod" is a 5/16" reclaimed from a .40 I once built, and used only for swabbing the patent breech flue - it's warp is of no consequence in that regard.

This gun won't be used for hunting by me, but none-the-less I don't like shiny gun stocks, so it'll get buffed out over the coming weekend.  The bbl will be left as is, as I prefer.  If it was for hunting, I'd vinegar patina it dull from the get-go rather than allow time to do its own relicing thing.  The bbl has been "Lee Shaver-ized" with oiled patches and 0000 steel wool, and I haven't felt any tight or loose spots so far. 

I am most pleased with what is more important that looks, the action and trigger.  After setting the DST, the fire pull reads between 5 and 6 ounces on my Easton digital scale.

Range trip may not happen 'til next year, depending on the weather, of which I don't take kindly to much under 50F these dayze of my life.

Then again, it's patent breech gun, and I hate them damn things, maybe I'll just get rid of it.     

[RobD]

5 to 6 ounce trigger pull ... sweet DST trigger assembly, and the lock time is Fast.

[RobD]

Some folks have asked me why I swapped out the lock and trigger assembly.

The concept of "better" and "best" can be somewhat subjective, at the least.  For me, the quality, durability, adjustability, and performance of both the L&R RPL05 lock and the T5 DST is "better" than those stock Investarms components.  Are there issues or known problems with the Investarms lock and DST?  IMHO, no - both will work well, but IMHO not as well as those L&R components. 

Be advised that these L&R components are no where near "drop in".  A fair amount of wood will be required to hog out in order to get the lock to properly fit. 

Before ...



After ...


The T5 DST will require its butt end to get bobbed by about 3/4" and a 1/8" hole drilled into it for the hold-down wood screw.  Its front end will need to get a good 1/16" to 3/32" shelf cut/ground into it in order to allow the trigger guard to fit at least reasonably properly - I could have made that shelf deeper but felt it wasn't all that necessary, didn't want to perhaps weaken that part of the DST, and having the front end of the trigger guard be proud of the stock wood wasn't a deal breaker (for me).

DST comparisons ...

[Hanshi]

Nice job!  Want my opinion?  No!  Well I'll give it anyway.  That would make a nice rifle just to "have around" and that doesn't need to be "babied".  If it shoots really well then maybe keep it, There's always a place for a fine shooting rifle. 

[RobD]

Tom, yer comments are always welcome by me, Sir! 

I may just keep the gun, gotta see 'cause I've got another flinter coming in a week or so, a gen-u-wine oldie (and hopefully goodie) Turner Kirkland in .45 bore ...

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[Bigsmoke]

Congrats Rob, on shopping victoriously.  I have been kinda looking at that on the ALR site.  Nice rifle.  Doesn't look like it has been used all that much.
I recollect back in the mid 1970's I got my first flinter rifle, it was another Dixie gun, also from Belgium.  It was a shooter, for sure.  But like a fool, I sold it,  one of many that went the way of the trade table.  Sure wish I would have kept that gun.
Be interesting to find out how this one shoots.
John (Bigsmoke)

[Winter Hawk]

   That's plumb lovely!  Nice crisp edges to the lock panels too.  We'll need a full range report after you get it, of course.

~Kees~