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Author Topic: Barrel Seasoning  (Read 2747 times)

Online Two Steps

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« Reply #15 on: November 07, 2008, 05:13:06 PM »
Uncle Russ Says:
Quote
I have always been told that if there is a problem with using Bore Butter as a "final barrel lube", it is the fact that Bore Butter / Wonder Lube 1000 / or whatever, will actually hold moisture, if the bore is not  perfectly dry  after the initial cleaning.

Russ, this is the same thing that I have heard/learned.  If your final lube is going to be BB...the barrel must be absolutely dry .  
Most of the time I will run one or two alcohol patches down the bbl to chase the dampness.  My final lube is with Ballistol, which will help chase dampness and will remain  after any dampness evaporates.
Works for me...now if I could just train my barrels to push round balls towards the X  :?
Al
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Offline Mitch

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« Reply #16 on: November 07, 2008, 05:34:16 PM »
I use good old water to clean, and a natural lube-sperm oil(yep, I've got about 10oz.), bear oil or grease, or olive oil(also known as sweet oil)...never had a "build up" problem, or any real problem cleaning,etc...to each his own as was said...Mitch
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Offline Uncle Russ

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« Reply #17 on: November 07, 2008, 05:34:31 PM »
Yep, This is also a great place for WD-40....as long as it is wipped out real good.    

Ballistol has, IMHO, become the "final lube" of choice with just about every shooter I know....It also works great as a patch lube, and will even remove spar varnish from the seat on your Bass Boat......but we won't go there.

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Online BEAVERMAN

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« Reply #18 on: November 07, 2008, 06:46:57 PM »
Ive been using break free as a final lube, no rust problems EVER and patches out before each shoot with 1 patch, didnt think about the WD 40 for the cleaning seeing how its more solvent than anything else, should work real good!
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Offline Mule Brain

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« Reply #19 on: November 09, 2008, 09:14:34 PM »
I use Hoppes black powder lube and powder solvent on my patches while shooting, I can virtually run the gun all day with this stuff!

I use water, and a dab of dish soap to clean my bores. After the barrel is clean, out comes the olive oil. That is all I use on all my guns!

I will be trying olive oil as a patch lube soon to see how that works.
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Offline Minnesota Mike

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« Reply #20 on: November 10, 2008, 12:00:40 PM »
Sounds to me like we have two discussion going on here - how to clean normally during/after shooting and the notion of 'seasoning' a barrel.

I've heard that after initally getting your barrel and using brush or stell wool to get rid of any nicks or burrs inside, you don't ever want to use a wire brush down the barrel ever again. You WANT to build up that pantina in the corners of the rifling to help make a tighter seal - which is why it takes a few score of shots until your smokepole settles out.

Wonder if maybe a survey on who (and why) out there brushes out their barrels routinely and who (and why) does not.

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Offline dennyhawk

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« Reply #21 on: November 12, 2008, 12:17:44 PM »
How many of you guys have used some type of home made concoction? (for a patch lube, and final lube) I've been wondering maybe about something along the lines of a mixture of bees-wax, and canola oil??
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Offline oomcurt

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« Reply #22 on: November 12, 2008, 01:03:32 PM »
I dunno...just my take on all this. Personally....I think this "seasoning" thing is just hype for the most part. Maybe...maybe initially it does provide some coating....but other than that....seasoning like one would do to cast iron cookware...nah. The reason why I am saying that..one has to look at T/C's solvent. To me...using any solvent would be like scrubbing your cast iron cook ware with soap. Good bye seasoning. Seems to me...if one looks back, it doesn't matter if your "thing" is The revolutionary war, the french and indian war, fur trapper, etc. there was no such thing as "bore butter" back then, neither was there Hoppe's #9 Plus solvent. Yet...those guns back then performed well...well enough to provide folks with food as well as defense. At times..well...most of the time I believe people today have this wierd belief that if it isn't the newest or the most high tech it isn't worth anything. We all know that just ain't so.

As for Minnesota Mike's question on wire brushing routinely...nope..I do not do that. Maybe I might do that once a year perhaps. Personally, I think things like that can be overdone. I don't think it would necessarily harm the barrel....but well...I look at it as "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type thing.

I guess it all boils down to one's druthers. Do I clean my guns the minute I am done shooting? Nope. I do clean them, the ones I used that day, before I go to bed though.

Just my two cents...
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Offline Mitch

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« Reply #23 on: November 12, 2008, 01:51:52 PM »
dennyhawk-that mix might work...I use a mix of rendered tallow,bear oil or grease or olive oil and a bit of beeswax-or no beeswax if the tallow is hard enough...mix approx. 1/3 of each-or 50/50 if only 2 ingredients..you may have to "adjust" the mix to suit your needs....I'm a firm believer in not having to buy lube or cleaning solvent.....however, last wknd I ended up using "rocket fuel" for cleaning and 3n1 oil on my .40 flinter!!! it was a one time thing-honest!! I had to shower when I got home, I felt so "dirty" having used products from the "dark side"!!LOLOLOL!!!!!
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Offline vermontfreedom

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« Reply #24 on: November 12, 2008, 09:21:22 PM »
Seasoning: I used to believe in seasoning hook line and sinker. This came from my centerfire shooting days where the barrel needs to be bare-metal cleaned before it's shot (that is, brand-new), then cleaned fairly thoroughly after each 5 to 20 rounds through the new barrel. This was definitely the case with a .270 WSM I bought a few years ago. Was only fair accuracy until 60-80 rounds were through it. Now I have 1/4 to 1/2 MOA.

The idea after then was that the pores in the metal (yes, stainless steel has microscopic pores) need to be filled with fouling to achieve optimum accuracy. You'll know that benchrest competition shooters almost always fire 2 "fouling shots" before a shoot. They also often say cleaning down to "bare metal" sets you back to a brand-new barrel. Many BR shooters, and even our own sniper squadrons will do a bare-minimum clean like run a bore snake down a few times then call it good.

Of course, it might be different with BP smokepoles and not smokeless.

On a 20+ year old Lyman Trade Rifle I learned on, I'd clean the bore with HOT soapy water, dry completely, then treat with bore butter or oxyoke. That old bore would drive tacks at 50 yards.

I followed the same regimen with a .54-cal Rice barrel, until every time I wiped my bore, whether 5 hours, 5 days or 5 months after the last time I shot I'd get brown on my patches.

Certainly, that might be the vegetable base in the bore butter oxidizing, but I was always worried about rust.

Now, I just use warm water, no soap, clean till patches are mostly (say, 98%) clean, dry completely, then treat with Sheath, like Ohio JOe says, or another similar Beechwood Casey product called "Barricade".

About 3 days after the clean I'll run another Barricade patch, then about once a month year-round if I haven't shot.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2008, 08:49:42 PM by vermontfreedom »
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Offline tg

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« Reply #25 on: November 13, 2008, 08:03:40 PM »
Gotta go with the seasoning being a hold over from the days of iron barrels and not needed or even doable on todays guns. you can clean and dr the bore and coat with BB but there is likley no comparison metalurgicaly twixt the two.

Offline Minnesota Mike

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« Reply #26 on: November 14, 2008, 11:42:34 AM »
Observations of the best shooters at our club is that you get better performance from a barrel that has had a pantena build up in it after several sessions. The pantene seems to help make the patch seal tighter.

So once you have barrel clean and clear, then don't go back and use wire brush ever again. Swab out and flush out to remove fouling and powder residue, but no wire brushing. Treat and coat with anti-rust product of choice. Have heard everything from bore butter to transmission fluid.

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Offline dennyhawk

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« Reply #27 on: November 14, 2008, 01:18:42 PM »
But won't the rifling eventually fill up with this stuff??
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Offline Gambia

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« Reply #28 on: November 14, 2008, 01:21:44 PM »
I know very little about all this,I have always used water hot warm or cold depending on what  was available,dried everything well and coated with a good gun oil,presently ballistol,the best I have found so far.I do know that if you buy a Green Mountain Barrel the instructions tell you not to use bore butter or similar products.I think due to its ability to trap moisture.About twice a year I give my blackpowder guns a complete cleaning wire brush the barrel,and take everything apart to clean and relube.It works for me but everyone has their own routine.If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Offline Uncle Russ

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« Reply #29 on: November 14, 2008, 02:08:10 PM »
Quote from: "dennyhawk"
But won't the rifling eventually fill up with this stuff??

This debate on whether to "clean it to the bone, or not" is not a new discussion by any means. It has been going on as long as I can remember.

FWIW; I am by no mean an expert on all this, albeit I am a Certified Gunsmith and a graduate of CST.
However, my own personal experience over the years, with the help of a good bore light, and sometimes even a good bore scope, has shown me that with normal use, and normal cleaning, ie wash the barrel with water / solvent, then dry and lube....you do get a build up in the rifling....in fact, this may well be what many refer to as "seasoning", if it is allowed to go on indefinately.

Now, what you don't see is....the build up is nothing more than crud, and will eventually destroy pin-point accuracy when the patch can no longer grasp the rifling to properly spin the ball...in effect, the patched ball is allowed to "skip" just a bit, which disturbs the otherwise normal harmonics of the barrel, and places the center of the gravitational spin toward different exit points of the muzzle, and this comes about with the same effect as a damaged crown....sometimes you can see this on recovered patches, sometimes not.
Sometimes you will get galling on the lands, sometimes not, depending on patch quality. But you will see it eventually on paper, and the increased difficulty in loading.

Now, having said all this nonsense, I will say that your choice of powder(s) has a tremendous lot to do with build up.

Uncle Russ...
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