Paper Cartridges / Choking Table

[Second-rate Marksman]

Just finished up a new choking table for black powder paper cartridge making, and I'm thoroughly enjoying this new adventure into a different facet of the hobby.

There's something deeply satisfying about slowing down and engaging with the process the way soldiers and militiamen did centuries ago: cutting paper, charging powder, seating the ball, and "choking" the cartridge just right. It's not about speed or convenience; it's about connection. Every cartridge feels like a small history lesson you can hold in your hands.

Modern shooting is great, but this side of the hobby (tools, techniques, and traditions that haven't changed much in 200+ years) is where the real fun is for me. Hard to beat that!

[KDubs]

If I didn't say it before, I really like that set up.
 Nice looking cartridges.
Kevin

[No Powder]

What does choking the cartridge just right mean. Is this what the early Sharps rifles would have used ?

[Second-rate Marksman]

What does choking the cartridge just right mean. Is this what the early Sharps rifles would have used ?

"Choking"a cartridge just means constricting the paper around the powder column so the ball is held firmly in place and the powder is compressed, without crushing anything. When it's done right, the cartridge is strong enough to handle, tears cleanly when you load, and gives consistent ignition instead of powder migrating or spilling.

And no-- this isn't what the early Sharps rifles used. Sharps rifles used combustible linen or nitrated paper cartridges that were cut open by the falling breechblock when the rifle was closed. There was no choked waist or tied section like you see on traditional musket or smoothbore cartridges meant to be bitten or torn. Choking is really a musket-era technique.

[Second-rate Marksman]

If I didn't say it before, I really like that set up.
 Nice looking cartridges.
Kevin

Thanks, buddy! I think I'm going to add a bit more taper to the cylinder to make the process smoother, but even as it sits, it works pretty slick. I'm also planning to experiment with different paper and thread combinations to see what really shines. Right now I'm using waxed butcher paper, figuring the wax should give me a little extra insurance against moisture.

Honestly, it's just nice to have some small winter projects like this-- something hands-on to tinker with and keep me busy when everything outside is cold and quiet.

I love chasing and squeezing the utmost accuracy out of my muzzleloaders with tight patch/ball combinations, but it's been neat to see what kind of accuracy and speed can be achieved with these primitive cartridges. I know it's nothing to write home about, but I've been able to consistently hit man-sized targets at 50 yards and beyond with them in my .58 Kibler Colonial smoothbore, which is consistent with period accounts.

I don't know if Benny will allow these at our club shoots, but I'd love to see how they fare in a woods walk setting. Surprisingly, I've actually noticed less smoldering of the paper than I do with pillow ticking/linen patches.

[RobD]

For balls ... this is the basic improved Brit process ... not shown is that now, before loading in the powder, I dip the ball end into melted GatoFeo lube, allow to cure, then add the powder ... during loading, the ball end goes in first after the powder is tube charged ...


For blanks ... glue is faster and is "period correct" (for the "period police") ...

[Second-rate Marksman]

Very interesting, Rob! Thanks for sharing. I used this video here as a guide:

https://youtu.be/He8TMNNSJeQ?si=YvYapoaklgYh-e5h

[RobD]

Very interesting, Rob! Thanks for sharing. I used this video here as a guide:

https://youtu.be/He8TMNNSJeQ?si=YvYapoaklgYh-e5h

I used to build cartridge balls with similar multi string methods, but the single string "pocket" method is easier, faster, and saves on linen string.   

Lubing the ball end before adding powder really helps with keeping the bore lubed, too.