My suggestion is to get either a Medium India and use thin oil, mineral oil is very good, on it or get a medium grit ceramic stone and use water on it. The ceramic is easily cleaned by simply washing with soap and water. Barring physical damage it will last longer than the pyramids.
Speaking of oil, people have used every kind of oil available to man with good results. EVERY KIND. I recommend pharmaceutical grade mineral oil. It has no odor, it is dirt cheap, and it will never dry. You can get 4 oz in a bottle labelled "Mineral Oil USP" at a drugstore for pennies, or 2 oz in a tin labelled "Honing Oil" for several dollars. Same stuff, different label. You do the math.
During over 35 years as a professional wood boatbuilder, I tried every new and exciting thing to come along including Japanese "water stones". The one still in my handbox is a Norton med. India about 6" X 1 1/2" X 1". I've had it about 15 years and it still puts a shaving edge on any straight cutting tool. Curved tools require curved stones.
There's a lot of hokum to be had on the subject of sharpening, with some advocating a great deal more "Technique" than necessary.
An edge is not improved by circular or wavy motions over the stone, just hold the blade at about ten degrees or a bit flatter, keep it even and rub. Do this on both sides as evenly as possible until you have a wire edge. Strop this off on a piece of soft leather or wood and you have an edge you can shave with. Ceramic stones are particularly good as they do not hollow out over time as other stones do. Diamond embedded stones are even better.
The purpose of liquid on the stone is to float particles of steel that have been removed from the blade away and keep them from filling the pores in the stone. Ceramic and Diamond don't have this problem and can be used dry, with only periodic cleaning.
Some swear by natural stones, I learned long, long ago to swear at them.
Your mileage, as always, may vary.
Three Hawks