wiskering and Laurel Mtn. stains

[ridjrunr]

The directions that LMF provides, conserning there stain,states that it is a non-wiskering stain. This will be my first time doing the finish on a rifle. I have read and understand wiskering, but am curious if others that have used LMF stains have or have not wiskered and if there claim is true.
Thank you for any help.
OH, it is a cva stock and I think the wood is birch or beech?

ridjrunr

[pathfinder]

Even the best NGR stains can sometimes raise the grain slightly. Whiskering is just a good thing to do for many reasons. First and foremost it shows where a little more work may be needed.

[Swamp]

Take your stock after finish sanding, and wipe it down with a damp (water) cloth. when you do this, it will raise the grain. Let this dry, and sand with 600 grit paper. Wipe down again with damp cloth, and sand again with 600 grit. Everytime you do this, the grain will raise less and less. I'm guessing 6 to 8 times, but every wood is different. Once the grain stops raising, final sand with 600 and your ready for stain. I did this on my war club, which was curly maple. Take a look.

[albumimg:2vjnnefl]3831[/albumimg:2vjnnefl]

[ridjrunr]

after reading yer responses and giving it more thought, I will wisker,thanx. May even give final scraping a go as apposed to sanding. I have read recentley that on curly maple, it (scraping)actually assists the eeradesence of the curl.
Now this is not curly maple, but my next project I will be moving onto is. So, it would be good to get a bit more experiance with scrapers.

[Capt. Jas.]

You are wise to whisker. LMF is non grain raising if you fully whisker FIRST.  You have to whisker for anything you apply if you want a good job.

[pathfinder]

Scraping curly maple doesn't raise the irredencense,it will accentuate the curl by taking more of the soft wood between the curl,giving the wood a very charming "wavey" look to it.

I don't go any finer than 280-320 grit,any finer and you run the risk of polishing the wood flat and smooth,closing the pores. Not a hard fast rule,just my opinion

[Capt. Jas.]

You are correct pathfinder. I scrape also. I try to scrape at an angle to reduce that washboard effect as much as possible. It slices off the wood instead of the way sanding affects it.
 I still use a  whisker wash to raise the grain in weird swirl areas of which I always find some.

[Gambia]

I always work with walnut and I use a damp vinegar rag to raise the grain , when dry I sand with a fine sandpaper  which can take up to six applications .When no more grain is raised I seal the grain with a paste of linseed oil mixed with fuller earth powder.It is then finished with a London old finish , a good oil finish does not come overnight it takes months to achieve.
Feltwad
A Flint Lock will not secure a chicken house door

[Captchee]

Dan , if your sanding , you need to whisker .  scraping  is less of an issue  on a good piece of wood .
 but if the would changes derection alot . your also going to need to whisker.

 like the others have said  whiskering is a good idea . myself , i whisker even if a scrape a stock . nothing sucks more then to get  things just right . hit the stock with your stain  and then find  places looking like you to a rasp to it