lock question

[amm1851]

Thanks for the input.

[Bigsmoke]

A little shade tree mechanicing here, but if you don't have a main spring vise, a quick work around is to use a small crescent wrench or even a small vice grip pliers.
Pull the cock back to full cock.  Set the crescent wrench or vice grips to fit over the compressed main spring.  Release the cock.  Now it will be easy to just remove the spring.  Leave the main spring in the vice grips or crescent wrench.  When you are ready to re-assemble the lock, simply reverse the procedure.
Personally, I prefer this method to using a main spring vice.
This also works pretty well for removing a frizzen spring.
YMMV, etc.
John

[Mike Brooks]

Does it malfunction when it is off of the gun? If not, it's hanging up on wood some where inside the lock inlet.

[Rocklock]

Not familiar w this lock but IF it has a fly, the fly may be sticking.

[rollingb]

Not familiar w this lock but IF it has a fly, the fly may be sticking.

Yep,.... that is another possibility.  

[amm1851]

Thanks for all the suggestions,  guys. I hope to get some time this weekend to look at it, and I will report back.

[waksupi]

When you build a gun, the barrel is inlet and set in place before you start putting in the lock. Once the lock is in, go ahead and drill and tap your tang bolt. Install. Then drill and tap your lock plate bolts. Put the lock in, tighten up the bolts, and check for function. Many times, you will have pulled in the lock works closer to the wood, causing hang ups. Use your inletting black, and re-inlet so things one more function correctly, tightening the bolts to be sure you are tight in the mortise. This is also the time to be sure your bolster is correctly fit, as it can allow the lock to rock causing problems, not to mention on flintlocks allowing prime down into the lock works. Also check the screw tension on the bridal screws, be sure there is enough play.
When I started building guns, I always wanted the inletting to be as close as possible. I have found over the years, this is not a good thing. Fine in the shop and dry weather, but take it out in wet weather, or send it to a damper part of the country, and the lock can stop functioning from the wood swelling. Another good point for a loose ramrod. Fit them too close, and they can swell and stick in the thimbles and forestock. Better to make them skinny, heat them up to put a bit of a bend in them to make them stay in place.
I'm not exactly an amateur, I'm building #169 at the time.

[Winter Hawk]

Could it be that you are pulling the hammer (cock) back too far before letting it down into the half-cock notch, allowing the fly to block it?

~WH~

[amm1851]

I believe the issue is dirt inside the lock. I went shooting yesterday and fired 20 rounds. When I got home and took the lock off, it was filthy inside. I have a Caywood Northwest trade gun, and after shooting it, the inside of the lock is still  usually as clean as a hound's tooth.

[Ohio Joe]

If you are getting dirt/fouling in the lock, then there may be a gap exposed in the lock to wood fit, or the front of the main spring is exposed in the ramrod channel. If there is a gap in the lock to wood fit that you can centralize - put a little beeswax there. If the front of the mainspring is in the ramrod channel then get in the habit of wiping off your ramrod before returning it to its channel.

Now 20 shots ain't bad, but truth be known, you should be able to get a whole lot more then that without the inside of the lock getting any kind of dirt/fouling in it. Perhaps it might be something you just have to live with. Good luck.