Your TMA Officers and Board of Directors
Support the TMA! ~ Traditional Muzzleloaders ~ The TMA is here for YOU!
*** JOIN in on the TMA 2024 POSTAL MATCH *** it's FREE for ALL !

For TMA related products, please check out the new TMA Store !

The Flintlock Paper

*** Folk Firearms Collective Videos ***



Author Topic: best kit for the money  (Read 5761 times)

Offline Captchee

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6215
(No subject)
« Reply #15 on: December 22, 2009, 08:20:16 PM »
well its not that simple .
  paying an inletting fee , doesnt mean the parts are  inlet .
 so unless your ready to do alot of work, do the  hard inletting , soldering m drilling, taping  and final shapping .
 your probably better of with the pedersoli .

IMO if your ok with doing all the above  you will have a nicer rifle from sitting fox

Offline shademtman

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 33
(No subject)
« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2009, 07:24:03 AM »
beaverman..... hey you know what... just looked down the barrel of mine, and your right... it is actually the rear sight, that is just a bit blurry, makes it harder to distinguish the edges clearly...sorry for the misconnception, never really thought about it, just knew thing where beginning to be a little less sharp.......so mabye a 42" won't make that much difference...... LOL......thanks!.....funny thing is i shoot quite a bit....just never really, thought about it.

Offline Kermit

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 421
  • TMA: 3/21/17 ~ 3/21/18
  • TMA Member: 393
(No subject)
« Reply #17 on: December 23, 2009, 10:42:20 AM »
Yep, older you get, the more a looooong barrel and no rear sight works just fine.
"Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly."
Mae West

Member Number 393

Offline shademtman

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 33
(No subject)
« Reply #18 on: December 23, 2009, 04:02:25 PM »
captchee...
       actually the inletting and various other, time consuming task are within my capibility's  i have done a number of start to finish rifles, that were only parts and unshaped stock blank.... nice if ya have alot of time....one of these day's soon it's going to warm up enough to go back to work..(i hope).... so don't know if i'm ready to get into a long project.... probably go pre inletted this time around. I still want the option to stain of my choice and brown the barrel...if i'm not mistaken the pedersoli kit comes with a blued barrel right..??

Offline Captchee

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6215
(No subject)
« Reply #19 on: December 23, 2009, 04:42:14 PM »
thats what im getting at  PRE INLET , doesnt mean inlet . it just means that the back areas have been remove . the actual inleting you will do  with something like a ToW asymbly  or sitting fox
 jim chambers is the only one i know who actual does inletting , when you ask for it .
so if your looking for something where just  finish shaping  and finsh are needed , the the pedersoli is  the way you should go .

asymbolies from the likes of sitting fox , ToW , pecatoncia river  do not come inlet , even when you pay to have them inlet

Offline shademtman

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 33
(No subject)
« Reply #20 on: December 24, 2009, 06:50:44 AM »
yep... know what ya mean....i actually considered building another, from scratch, i have a couple of real nice hard maple here, don't think i want to get into a project like that right now..

Offline Old Salt

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 1669
(No subject)
« Reply #21 on: December 24, 2009, 06:09:56 PM »
Quote from: "Captchee"
 
asymbolies from the likes of sitting fox , ToW , pecatoncia river  do not come inlet , even when you pay to have them inlet

I'm not sure I understand this.  

If I pay any one of these companies to inlet parts and they don't come inlet then how does a person describe it?

Salt
Traditional American Craftsman

Online BEAVERMAN

  • TMA Contributing Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6038
  • TMA: TMA Vice President
  • TMA Member: Charter Member #145
  • Location: Vaughn, WA
(No subject)
« Reply #22 on: December 24, 2009, 06:47:27 PM »
they hog out the areas such as the lock mortise, barrel channel, and trigger with a template and a router, you have to do the final fit
« Last Edit: December 24, 2009, 09:06:14 PM by BEAVERMAN »
Jim Smith
TMA Vice President
Charter Member #145  EXPIRATION 1/21/25
Green River Mountain Men
Peninsula Longrifles
WSMA
U.S.M.C.
BSA                    
Save America. Spay or neuter a liberal today.

"An armed man is a citizen,..an unarmed man is a subject!"

Offline Captchee

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6215
(No subject)
« Reply #23 on: December 24, 2009, 07:41:40 PM »
yep  jim is correct . whats left is the hard part of inleting . the part that shows . the part that makes the parts fit and fit correctly

Offline shademtman

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 33
(No subject)
« Reply #24 on: December 25, 2009, 06:48:18 AM »
does anyone know.... if the pedersoli kit comes with the barrel already blued??.....i would like to brown the barrel, this time around... not blue.

Offline bluelake

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 213
    • http://www.shinmiyangyo.org
  • TMA Member: 424
  • Location: MI
(No subject)
« Reply #25 on: December 25, 2009, 07:55:11 AM »
Quote from: "shademtman"
does anyone know.... if the pedersoli kit comes with the barrel already blued??.....i would like to brown the barrel, this time around... not blue.

According to DGW:

Quote
Barrel is blued, Octagon ,35 1/16” length with a 1 in 56” twist.
Member #424

Offline Captchee

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 6215
(No subject)
« Reply #26 on: December 25, 2009, 08:49:57 AM »
just remove the blue and do a brown

Offline Old Salt

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 1669
(No subject)
« Reply #27 on: December 25, 2009, 09:54:45 AM »
Quote from: "BEAVERMAN"
they hog out the areas such as the lock mortise, barrel channel, and trigger with a template and a router, you have to do the final fit

I bought my first longrifle kit from Wayne Dunlap.  I would say those parts were pre inlet although not to the extent of a Lyman GPR.  The inletting for all the brass furniture was hogged out, as you say, but to such a close tolerance that very little work was needed for a good fit.  Of course the breech area and tang needed considerable work and I spent plenty of time on the butt plate to make the best fit.  I changed the trigger to a double set trigger so that obviously required more work.  I don't recall having to do much on the lock..

Even on an in-the-white rifle I bought from Tip Curtis I put more time into the butt plate and toe plate for a better finish.  And I worked on the lock mortise to get the best match up with the barrel.                

My Sitting Fox kit was only preinlet for the barrel and ramrod, but I chose that option.

I guess what I'm trying to tell shademtman is to shop around and talk to the dealers.  Most of the suppliers will do eveything possible to accomodate you.

If you buy a Lyman or Pedersoli kit for example, you'll be dealing with a distributor.

Salt
Traditional American Craftsman

Offline shademtman

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 33
(No subject)
« Reply #28 on: December 26, 2009, 07:29:41 AM »
ya know, i actually thought about a lyman GPR, also.....brown the barrel, mabye a little carving just to personalize a bit, anyone got one? how's the lock on a gpr? what size flint do they use?

Offline crow killer

  • TMA Forum Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 2
    • http://kabooom.proboards.com/index.cgi?
(No subject)
« Reply #29 on: December 26, 2009, 10:36:33 AM »
Quote from: "shademtman"
ya know, i actually thought about a lyman GPR, also.....brown the barrel, mabye a little carving just to personalize a bit, anyone got one? how's the lock on a gpr? what size flint do they use?

i have a GPR, it was the first rifle i built, and it still has a warm spot in my hart. the lock is ok, sparks enough to go off every time (if i keep the patent breech clean). i alway meant to up grade the lock and triggers (L&R makes a replacement lock, and Davis makes replacement triggers) but i just never got around to it. i actaully go a little big on my flints and use 3/4". its still my "go to" rifle. when i did mine i did a few things a bit different, i did a vinegar finish on all the metal (a really tough finish!). i wish i had done more work to the comb and cheeck piece, as i have a really well built hawkens and i can see the diferance now. i can tell you this, the GPR is an easy build, and you will enjoy shooting it for years to come!

heres mine