Couple things if I may
I would agree with swamp IMO 99% of the issues often complained about , stem from improper care. Any cleaning solution or oils left in the bore or bolster , will effect your ignition . Having it clean and dry and free of oils is the key
your drum or bolster channel is a direct extension of the bore .
As was stated , there should be powder already in that channel . Depending on the size of that channel , if you take the nipple out ,you may find the channel full of powder OR just a few grains .
when you load powder from the main charge drops down in this channel . if it dosnt then you have a restriction . possable caused by carbonized fouling thats building up and restricting the channel .
this can be a real bear to clean out . running a pipe cleaner helps ensure this fouling doesnt build to the point it causes an issue
Priming behind the nipple should not make a fuse burn .
1) that prime becomes part of the main charge
2) the actual flash channel , as compared to a flintlock , is actually in the nipple . Not in the bolster . The channel from the bolster should be at least 3/16 to ¼ depending on the rifle.
I would agree with swamp also on this . If you plan on priming behind the nipple . Then practice doing that . Remember 4 F is a lot hotter then 3F and your adding pressure . Granted its probably marginal unless you don’t find any powder in the bolster .
But even this little bit may have an effect on your accuracy .
Also be careful because to much prime and when you screw your nipple down it. Compresses the powder . Making a had blockage that can also be hard to ignite even if its 4F you put in . so if you decide to do that you just need a little.
The subject of venting also was brought up .
Its true that this is a theory .
Its also true that the nipples with side holes are considered to be hot shot nipples .
However the side holes serve as a pressure vent to clear the flash hole of the nipple . IE more gas is aloud to escape. What actually makes the nipple hotter is the flash channel design and size .
As to venting the drum . Yep also true . But remember this also creates an point for moisture to contaminate the charge .
On a caplock you cannot see this happen . Where on a flintlock its obvious and the moisture easily corrected by changing the pan powder .
Not so with a caplock .
As such like Russ stated . What your doing is adding variables. The less variables you have , the better off you will be .
Mark here is something for you to think about .
How many times do you have caps pop while out practicing ?
If you have a lot then there is an issue that needs to be found .
If you have very few then you should have started to build confidence in your rifle , your loading procedure as well as your cleaning process .
To include the brand of caps you use
If so you should have no concerns as to if the gun will go off .
You simply cannot with a caplock , remove the chances of having a bad or weak cap that doesn’t have enough umpfff to set the charge of .
That can happen . Its part of traditional muzzle loading .
But if you have shot enough to have built confidence in your weapons system ,. IE you and the rifle . Then the chances of the rifle not going off should be very small .
Myself I would not prime behind the nipple . Do what swamp stated . Make sure everything is clean and dry .
Then when your ready to go out , take a nipple pick that small enough to go completely through the nipple and run it into the nipple so as to make 100% sure none of the fragments or fouling from the caps you popped have clogged the flash hole .
Learn to protect the lock from the weather , just like you would a flintlock and your world will turn
Topic: Priming the drum? (Read 1309 times)