Ballistol

[cowboys1062]

I have never used Ballistol and only know what little bit of what I have read. I have some questions to ask about this stuff and hope some of you will respond to answer my questions. I've heard some dilute it with water. What is the reason for this? and why not use it full strenght? Can you use it to wipe between shots at the range? Do you use it as a part of your over all cleaning when you get back from the range? Do you wipe down the entire muzzleloader to include the stock? Do you use it in your Bore as a rust preventitive for long term storage instead of gun oils or some who believe in bore butter. I personally use Barricade in my Bores for long term storage. Would Ballistol work just as good? I was just curious to know how often and when to use it and for what reasons some use the stuff. Thankyou, Respectfully, cowboys1062.

[Rocklock]

I have some and have used it with mixed results. Instructions on the label say to mix 1 part ballistol to 6 parts water. Seems water is doing most of the work as I've cleaned and at the range wet my shooting patch material w nothing but tap water. Obviously if loading for a longer time than to step to the line and fire something other than water is needed.  In a match I wipe one pass in and out each shot. Just to see what shooting w water and not wiping I fired 10 rounds. Then went back to wiping every shot.  Ball was .495 and patch was .024 denim. I still clean w just water.

TC

[rollingb]

I don't like the smell of Ballistol,.... others don't seem to mind it though.

[Hank in WV]

I've been using it for patch lube ever since LVL went under. No wiping between shots. I clean with just cold water. I use a gun oil for storage. Been working quite well for me.

[cowboys1062]

Thankyou all for the replies and information. Very informitive and helpful! Respectfully, cowboys1062.

[Bigsmoke]

I will join rollingb with a dislike of the aroma.

[prairie dog]

I use Ballistol as a patch lube (Dutch Schultz method) and in moose milk as a cleaner.  It is working well for me.

[snake eyes]

Cowboy,
            Thanks for your post! Always wondered much the same. Sounds like I have no
reason to change from my Ol Thunder and Rem-Oil.
snake-eyes  

[cowboys1062]

From what I can now gather, I seem to not be so interested in the Ballistol anymore. I don't think I'm going to use the stuff. I've always used plain soap and water to clean out my bores followed by a couple of alcohol patches and then followed by several dry patches to be sure the bore is good and dry and finally a patch saturated with Birchwood Casey's Barricade to coat the bore real good. It has always worked for me doing it this way and have never had a rust issue. I guess as the old saying goes " Don't fix it if it aint broken " I now think that buying the Ballistol would have been a waist of time and money. I will stick with what I know. I thank all of you for your advice and imput. It gave me alot to think about and was very helpful! Respectfully, cowboys1062.

[RobD]

cowboys1062 -

there is a huge difference 'tween dealing with shooting, fouling control and cleaning.  you should better understand what ballistol is, how it is used for these firearm processes, and you should consider trying these methods before rendering a negative opinion that's based solely on the opinions of others.

first, understand just what ballistol is ... it is a full circle CLP (cleans, lubricates, protects) - ballistol (meaning 'ballistic oil') is a mineral oil-based chemical that is water solvent, which was originally intended for cleaning, lubricating, and protecting firearms. the product originated from germany before ww1, after the german military requested an 'all-around' oil and cleaner for their rifles and equipment.  the German military used it from 1905 to 1945.  it has no carcinogens. some other similar chemicals contain petro-chemicals which can pollute the environment if improperly handled, and can damage the 'seasoning' developed on the bore of a black-powder gun.  ballistol is widely used with firearms in europe.

learn more ~ FAQs | Ballistol

i use the dutch schoultz method for patches, fouling, cleaning and preserving.  it works for me, and will work equally well for anyone else.

patches - a good fit of patch and ball will mean a compromise of both ease of ball seating and accuracy.  this has little to nothing to do with how the patch gets lubed, but of and by itself is important.  i use dry lubed patch strips easily made this way - soak a length of patch strip in a 6:1 mix of water and ballistol, remove the excess mix, lay down the strips level and flat to dry off.  the water evaporates, the ballistol remains in the cloth.  the reason i prefer strips of patch material over individual patches is that cutting a patch at the muzzle insures the patch will always be centered on the ball and in the rifling.  dealing with dry lube patches is easier than messing with damp or wet patches, and each dry lube patch will offer a uniform amount of lube.

fouling control - i use dutch moose milk, which is ...

• 1  part Ballistol
• 1  part Lestoil or Pinesol
• 2  parts hydrogen peroxide
• 20 parts tap water

between every shot, lightly saturate a patch, it should not be wet, just damp, and run it down and up the barrel.  one patch should suffice, but you be the judge of that.  clean the pan and touch hole.  reload with a dry lube patched ball.  shoot.  do it again.

after shooting cleaning - run moose milk wet patches down the barrel until they come relatively "clean", run down a few dry patches, last patch should be saturated with a good oil preservative (ballistol, break free, wd-40, etc) and leave that patch/ramrod down the barrel.  remove the lock and clean with moose milk, dry off the lock, re-install.

give it a go, you may be pleasantly surprised.

[Hanshi]

Although I've never used Ballistol it seems to me neither fish nor fowl.  And all the mixing with A, B, and C required to get it useful is a waste of time, IMO.  There are so many simple things that do an exceptional job already that I, personally, see no use for it.  Water is the top cleaner, dry patches and alcohol remove the water and Barricade or a good gun oil protect the bore.

[RobD]

yep, plain old water will clean up bp, but it won't lube nor protect at the same time.  if mixing up moose milk is too difficult, no need to play chemist and no need to resort to that toxic commercially blended krap - a simple 5% to 10% mix of ballistol and water is one of the best bpcr fouling control solvents, as well as bp cleaner, and what i use for my sharps and rolling block rifles.  do the research on bp CLP solvents worldwide and you'll see that ballistol is either number one or in the top few.  ballistol is essentially mineral oil, is non-toxic, biodegradable, skin friendly, and is even used in animal care.  i need to buy stock in that company, seriously.

[rollingb]

Somewhere I read that German troops even used Ballistol to flavor their food.  

After trying it, I'll stick with water and a good gun oil for my muzzleloaders.  

[Hank in WV]

Although I've never used Ballistol it seems to me neither fish nor fowl.  And all the mixing with A, B, and C required to get it useful is a waste of time, IMO.  There are so many simple things that do an exceptional job already that I, personally, see no use for it.  Water is the top cleaner, dry patches and alcohol remove the water and Barricade or a good gun oil protect the bore.

See my earlier post from 5/11/15.

[Gary B]

I use soap and water to clean the bore and then coat with plain ol' olive oil. Guns look good as new for the past 30 years.