New CVA Bobcat Stock

[Winter Hawk]

Got images to share?

Notice the blood stain on the cheek piece. 

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Thanks Joe.  I got the easiest butt plate I could for this first time effort so it doesn't have the extension on top, nor a toe plate (although the latter can always be added later). 

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

Got images to share?

Notice the blood stain on the cheek piece. 

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Thanks Joe.  I got the easiest butt plate I could for this first time effort so it doesn't have the extension on top, nor a toe plate (although the latter can always be added later). 

~Kees~

I'm thinking the CVA Frontier didn't have a top extension on its butt-plate. is that right, or am I remembering wrong? I bought one a long time ago and sold it a few weeks later to a feller who just loved that little short .50 caliber.

[RobD]

Got images to share?

Notice the blood stain on the cheek piece. 

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Thanks Joe.  I got the easiest butt plate I could for this first time effort so it doesn't have the extension on top, nor a toe plate (although the latter can always be added later). 

~Kees~

Love the blood stain - now yer connected to that gun no matter what. 

Bandsaw would work best for the butt stock crescent cut, but it could be cut square with a handsaw and then rasped to shape.  Screw on the butt plate and rasp the stock to fit.  Aside from the crescent shape, a relatively easy butt plate to install since it's on one plane and not two (no top).

[Ohio Joe]

Almost forgot Kees, are you going to allow for cast off, or run straight with that butt plate. Sometimes that cast off can be a pain if you go too much - and factory over the counter rifles usually don't have cast off - so if you're use to shooting factory stocked rifles - I wouldn't go the cast off route.

[Winter Hawk]

Just straight. Once I get through this one I'll think on what else I can screw up....   

~Kees~

With much trepidation I set to work with the coping saw with the pictured results.  I'll see if I can find a round or half round rasp tomorrow to start working it down more.  Or maybe just use 80 grit sandpaper around a 1" dowel.  I will have to remember to take my time.  As someone here said, "patience, little grasshopper!"

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[BEAVERMAN]

Believe it or not... I find fitting a butt plate properly the most frustrating job on any rifle build! slow and easy with lots of inletting black!

[Winter Hawk]

Believe it or not... I find fitting a butt plate properly the most frustrating job on any rifle build! slow and easy with lots of inletting black!

I will definitely believe it!

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

They are a tricky beast for sure! But doable. 

[PetahW]

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For curved butt ends, I use a set of drum sanders ($27 @ Harbor Freight) in my power hand drill.

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-quick-change-sanding-drum-set-35455.html

[Winter Hawk]

I thought about doing something like that but it seems that whenever I use power tools (including Dremmel) I end up taking too much off and then having to do something else to cover up the mistake.  So, I have an order in for a half round rasp set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WLND7VX?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

Slow & easy wins the race, I hope!

~Kees~

[Winter Hawk]

Another question: what to use for pins to pin the barrel to the stock?  I thought that brass was traditional, in which case I need to find some brazing rod.  Howsomever, I do have some steel rods about 1/16" diameter which could be used.  I just wonder about it being susceptible to rust.  The H&A underhammer, my first ML rifle which I foolishly sold, had the forearm pinned on with brass.  Which would be better, steel or brass?

In the meantime, I have the butt almost completely matching the butt plate; just a few more passes with the rasp should do it.  Then I will file the edges of the plate to match the wood and the wood to match the plate and I'm done there.

The barrel has two dovetails in the bottom flat.  One was for the wedge lug, the other for the nut to which the under rib was screwed.  I'm planning to use them for the underlugs.  However, the one for the wedge is way long, almost 3/4" and the other is shorter than a standard 3/8" as they are both metric.  I am making underlugs to fit from some pieces of steel I picked up at the hardware store.  I only have 0.233" of wood between the barrel channel and the ramrod channel so not enough to even think about using wedges to hold it together.

All in all it's another learning experience!

~Kees~

[Winter Hawk]

I have the butt plate pretty well in place.  There is a sliver of space on both sides between the wood and the plate, and I'm not overly happy with the toe but I'll go with it as it is for now.  Need to concentrate on the barrel under lugs.  then the ramrod channel and hole are/were a tad bit too small a diameter.  I have sanded out the channel, not sure what to do about the hole as I don't have a l-o-n-g drill.  I'm thinking of getting a 1/4" dowel and attaching sandpaper to the end, then running that in and out, possibly chucked in a drill to enlarge the hole.

Any advice will be appreciated!

~Kees~

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[Hank in WV]

Would it be possible to scrape and sand the rod to fit?

[Ohio Joe]

Keys, I like the 1/16 steel rivet shaft that is used for the 1/8 rivet... I've never had one of these show the slightest sign of bend under continuous recoil over the years... Personally, I feel if you used a brass pin - it would eventually show signs of bending and would effect your accuracy. Just my opinion... 

(You can always blue that steel barrel pin. I've never had one "rust" to where I couldn't get it out.)

PS... Nice job on that butt-plate!!! 

[Winter Hawk]

Would it be possible to scrape and sand the rod to fit?

I thought of that, but the metal fittings at the end would have to be decreased also.  Ramrods from my other rifles are also very tight in this stock.  The RR channel sanded down nicely so all I need to do is increase the diameter of the drilled hole and I'm good.

Kees, I like the 1/16 steel rivet shaft that is used for the 1/8 rivet... I've never had one of these show the slightest sign of bend under continuous recoil over the years... Personally, I feel if you used a brass pin - it would eventually show signs of bending and would effect your accuracy. Just my opinion... 

(You can always blue that steel barrel pin. I've never had one "rust" to where I couldn't get it out.)

Sounds like that's the way for me to go.  I can always change it later if I decide to!

PS... Nice job on that butt-plate!!! 

Thank you, you are much too kind!  I see gaps which should not be there, but at this point I will continue on with the barrel under lugs.

Now one more question, what do the cognoscenti suggest for stain?  I have tried the cans from Walmart & Lowe's with less than spectacular results, and am tending to Laurel Mountain Forge or Birchwood-Casey.  Finish will be Linspeed as that has done well for me in the past.

~Kees~