Thinned Superglue???

[Winter Hawk]

I have read several posts over the years that, to fix a cracked stock, one injects thinned superglue into the crack and then clamps it.  I have a T-C Hawken which came to me cheap because it has a cracked stock and now I want to repair it.  The question is, how do I thin the superglue?  Just squirt it in a syringe, add acetone and shake it up, or is this something you can buy?

Thanks for the help,
~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

Kees,

I have no idea how to thin super glue, and to be honest,,, I really don't believe it would be a long term repair as the super glue dries way too fast and will not penetrate into the wood like the slow drying Tite Bond III wood glue will do...

I use the Tite Bond III wood glue when I laminate wood backers on longbows and have never had one fail - ever. So just a thought on maybe rethinking the super glue... 

[Doc Nock]

I can only add that Rob has spoken often of a 'water thin" CYA glue he buys and uses to flood the bbl channel, lock mortise, etc to make it impervious....

Thinning CYA? 

I wouldn't have a clue...

One might ping Rob and ask about his water thin stuff if interested

[Ohio Joe]

I did look up "thinning Super Glue" and they actually sell such a thing as called; "Thin Super Glue" - and it's kind 'a pricey.

[Doc Nock]

I did look up "thinning Super Glue" and they actually sell such a thing as called; "Thin Super Glue" - and it's kind 'a pricey.

What ain't these days?

[Winter Hawk]

Thanks guys.  I think I'll try the Titebond III since I have it.  We'll see how that works.  The crack looks to be old, and may have oil in it which would negate the wood glue's effectiveness.  I may flood it with acetone first to try to get any oil out.

Thanks again!
~Kees~

[Uncle Russ]

File this one under the, "It's working good up to this point"....
About five or six years ago my friend's wife brought me a T/C Renegade with that infamous crack at the wrist line, and she had been shooting it like that for a couple of years, but then her husband said take it to Uncle Russ......
I did this one with Gorilla glue..
I make the "crack line a bit larger, in hopes I could get to the very bottom of the crack, and using a syringe I got it good and wet inside...I transferred my glue to another syringe and filled everything with Gorilla Glue.
I put the wrist of that stock in a leather padded Vice and really changed it down.
A day later I could see signs of the Gorilla Glue leaking, it turns white when mixed with water, which is good because you can see every place the Glue got to.
I then stripped and refinished the stock, which was a great surprise when I uncovered the old finish. There was a beautiful piece of woof under all that mess.
I also used Rob's Hot Glue to seal all the complete channel and Housing...it's almost as good as an Aluminum bedding......works like a charm.
I have a picture of that stock I am going to try to post, see what you think?
I found some pictures of it on the table, but not when I finished it.
You guys need to see this! I'll find the right pictures to show you!




Sorry about the HUGE Pictures, I thought at one time I could take care of that!
 

[Ohio Joe]

File this one under the, "It's working good up to this point"....
About five or six years ago my friend's wife brought me a T/C Renegade with that infamous crack at the wrist line, and she had been shooting it like that for a couple of years, but then her husband said take it to Uncle Russ......
I did this one with Gorilla glue..
I make the "crack line a bit larger, in hopes I could get to the very bottom of the crack, and using a syringe I got it good and wet inside...I transferred my glue to another syringe and filled everything with Gorilla Glue.
I put the wrist of that stock in a leather padded Vice and really changed it down.
A day later I could see signs of the Gorilla Glue leaking, it turns white when mixed with water, which is good because you can see every place the Glue got to.
I then stripped and refinished the stock, which was a great surprise when I uncovered the old finish. There was a beautiful piece of woof under all that mess.
I also used Rob's Hot Glue to seal all the complete channel and Housing...it's almost as good as an Aluminum bedding......works like a charm.
I have a picture of that stock I am going to try to post, see what you think?
I found some pictures of it on the table, but not when I finished it.
You guys need to see this! I'll find the right pictures to show you!




Sorry about the HUGE Pictures, I thought at one time I could take care of that!

I've been watching some wood stock repair videos in which they are using the Gorilla Glue and at this point I would agree with Russ, use the Gorilla Glue... Bottom line is that you can't buy a new stock for what one pays for a bottle of the Gorilla Glue...   

[Butler Ford 40]

Russ, ya done good, I'm still looking for the repair! 

[RobD]

I use "super glue" on a daily basis, and i mean Every Day.  It's an essential build material in the things I make and ship world wide. 

From a trad muzzy perspective, I use a piece of paper towel to whisk in water thin CYA to a stock's bbl channel and lock mortise in order to both seal and harden the wood.  Stock crack repairs are easy as long as the pieces can be properly clamped.  Sometimes I'll use bone dust or acrylic powder to fill gaps in joints that don't make a perfect mating seal.

FWIW ...

"Super glue" or CA or CYA or CYAnoacrylate glue, is the stuff that was a byproduct "invention" as early as the 1940's.  It's real first practical use was in the Viet Nam war, where medics needed a fast and sure way to stop bleeding in super humid jungles.  Medical grade CYA is the best and that's typically the stuff sold for the hobby industry and not the junk kind (Crazy Glue). 

CYA comes in essentially three viscosity blends - water thin, medium, and thick.  Water thin is my fave and I prefer the "Hot Stuff" brand.  This super thin viscosity requires the objects to be stuck together have a perfect *tight* fit and the mating surfaces are clean.  Clamping or weighting is best and done first, then the CYA is wicked into the seam of the objects.  An accelerant spray can be used for instant bonds, but that usually requires testing.   

[Hank in WV]

Just an FYI. I use surgical tubing or old cut up inner tubes to clamp odd shaped objects when the usual clamps won't work.

[Ohio Joe]

Russ, ya done good, I'm still looking for the repair!

I'm with Bill on this, I can't see the repair either - which is fantastic!!! 

[doggoner]

Just an FYI. I use surgical tubing or old cut up inner tubes to clamp odd shaped objects when the usual clamps won't work.

I ask the "vampire" nurse at the medical clinic if I can have the rubber band they use to constrict the blood flow when they draw blood. They have always given me it and extra when I explain that I use them as "clamps" for my odd shaped woodworking projects. They work fine for me. YMMV.

doggoner

[Winter Hawk]

Thanks everyone, for the advice.  I went ahead and used the Titebond I have on hand, and it seems to have worked well.  I can stress the stock and the crack doesn't open up at all.  Rifle is back together and hanging in the living room.  I ran some more patches down the bore and still couldn't feel them grabbing the rifling, and it has a rough spot about 2/3 down from the muzzle.  I got it for a wall hanger so it really doesn't matter if it is shootable, but I feel bad for the rifle, just like I felt bad for my cheap beater pickup truck and keep fixing stuff on it although it was bought to be a wood hauler and nothing more,....

~Kees~

[Ohio Joe]

Titebond will do the job with its slow drying time (which allows it to penetrate the wood). 

A late friend of mine (local neighbor Lee Shell) told me about the Tite Bond Glue... He was a Navy man (Lt. Cmd) and that on/in the ship's carpentry area where he spent his free time when at sea - the men were allowed to do projects with wood to help pass the time and that's where he learned of the Tite Bond Glue...

He and I teamed up on many a wood projects before he passed away some years back. Great guy who I learned a lot from for sure!!!.

it has a rough spot about 2/3 down from the muzzle

Kees,

Have you tried wrapping some  (4) 0000 Steel wool around a dowel and running it up and down in the bore to see if it smooths it out?