New to me .45 Pedersoli Flintlock Kentucky Rifle

[Nessmuk]

I recently purchased a .45 cal Flintlock Kentucky rifle by Pedersoli on Gunbroker. I like the look, the weight, the balance, the length of pull BUT it's a single trigger and it feels like a 18lb trigger pull, Does anyone know of a double trigger set up that drops into a Pedersoli with minimal wood loss? any help would be appreciated.

[BEAVERMAN]

First question that I have is does the lock have a fly?

[Winter Hawk]

I suggest that you take the lock apart and polish all the bearing surfaces.  I have done that on several guns now and it makes a huge difference.  Make sure the seer tip and full cock notch are honed smooth.  Just be careful to maintain the angles; you just want them to be polished, not changed.  Also check the trigger plate and clean & polish in there also.  Grease or oil (or dry lubricant for Winter use) on those bearing surfaces is also necessary.  Just watch that you don't lose the fly when you have things apart.  Before taking it out, take a picture so you know how it goes back in or it can really mess things up.  Don't even ask how I know this....

If you want to replace the lock, contact L&R: https://www.lr-rpl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=53.
For triggers, try Davis: http://www.redaviscompany.com/triggers.html

Neither shows specifically for Pedersoli but they can probably tell you what will work.

Good luck,
~Kees~

[Nessmuk]

I don't believe it has a fly. I'm in the process of cleaning and polishing the lock

[BEAVERMAN]

I don't believe it has a fly. I'm in the process of cleaning and polishing the lock

Mark, without a fly how will a double set trigger work? maybe a single set?

[Winter Hawk]

Wow, full size on the photo the metal looks rougher than a cob; you have a LOT of polishing to do!  We are confident that you will rise to the occasion, admirably.   

A fly isn't necessarily needed if the seer clears the half-cock notch when the rifle is fired.  The single trigger would make that possible since you would hold it back longer than the time it takes for the cock to fall.

Let us know how you make out with this project!

~Kees~

[hawkthrower]

Oof!!  I. Agree with Kees, that lock is rough looking. But fear not there looks like plenty of material that can be.smoothed out.  If the back side of the seer is as rough as the rest I'd be polishing all of the friction surfaces and stay away from th catch. The back plate and the hammer pivot axle are also spots to take a close look at after you have it apart. You got thos!! Cheers

[RobD]

Sounds like it might make into a nice gun.

There is no pressing need for a double set or single set trigger.  I don't like or use them.  A well levered single trigger can be made to break at under a pound - it's all about how the trigger is made and fitted.

[KDubs]

Nice explanation, well put.
 I'm  looking forward to the progress on this.
Kevin

[Nessmuk]

Thanks, Rob for wonderfully clear explanation of trigger dynamics. I learn something new all the time here. Thanks to all for their suggestions and help. After a trip to Harbor Freight for 4 different grades of  polishing compound and a couple dozen buffing wheels for my Dremel tool, I got busy on the lock and trigger assembly. It took several hours over a 7 day time span to get everything smooth and shiny. This morning I lubed and reassembled the lock and trigger and reassembled the rifle. I must say I am AMAZED at the difference! Smooth as silk and down to 2.5 lb pull. Tomorrow is test fire day.

P.S, Now I'm going to check out my 11 other rifles Locks and Triggers. Between that and casting round balls I'll be busy this winter.   

[Ohio Joe]

Good diagram (above) for sure.

I've made several rifles in my younger days and only one ever received a "store" bought trigger. All the others I've made myself, and in reality - they aren't that hard to make, as the diagram shows above, (thanks Rob) it's all about that number 3 trigger on the right with its rearward slant that gives you a lite trigger pull...  Note: you can also round the top of the #3 trigger and really get a lite pull, (which may be too lite for some folks / but for target shooting - it's pretty darn nice).

[Winter Hawk]

I had Pecatonica River duplicate the stock for the Hodgepodge rifle and will fit all the parts together on it this Winter.  I think I'll move the trigger back a bit it like Rob's drawing shows (thank you, Rob!), and lighten the trigger up even more.  I did away with the rear "set" trigger years ago after polishing the internals of the lock but it looks funky with the trigger in the middle of the guard.  Moving it back will help with that also.

Great thread!  It may need to be a sticky?

~Kees~

[PetahW]

.

WOW !

That drawing's the bomb, Rob.....   

[Winter Hawk]

Last night I went ahead and drilled a new hole for the trigger pivot pin 3/8" +/- further back on the trigger plate.  I had to do quite a bit of filing to lengthen the slot so the trigger could move back.  That made a great difference in the trigger pull and the trigger looks a bit better inside the guard. 
Thanks Rob and the rest of you enablers! 

~Kees~